These are the best cars ever made, I've just recently started driving mine again after it sat in storage for almost 3 years. It's a cherry 126K mile car, my father is the original owner of the car. When I pulled her out of storage it needed:

a) Brakes, calipers were seized
b) Rear main seal, leaking
c) Turbocharger, whining loudly
d) Window regulators, all four
e) Sunroof motor stuck in open position
f) Insane vacuum leaks, nothing worked
g) Bumper moldings fallen off front and rear
h) Grill permanently damaged by bug residue
i) Turn signal cracked
j) No radio, speakers, or antenna
k) No interior lights worked, nada
l) Tach inop
m) Suspension in front shot
n) All four shocks leaking
o) Tires shot & leaking

This is a short list by the way...

Now this car is completely redone, and is a cherry. With the help of this site & fastlane I was able to get my car back to perfect condition. Now I'm proud to drive around in one of the finest W123 cars in Los Angeles. Total cost for all repairs, $4100 including an Alpine stereo w/Alpine amps & speakers. No junkyard parts were used in the repair and rebuild of the car, everything was new and bought from either this site or the dealer.

Here's the list of the car's problems now:

a) N/A

None, everything works. Get in the car, put the firm shifter not loose at all) into Drive, positive engagement feel from the trans, put it all the way to the kickdown switch and watch the new transmission modulator shift the 617 engine at 4400 RPM from 1-2 2-3 3-4. Slow down, and you won't feel the transmission shift, because it's perfect. Slow down to a stop at a light, and that "clunk" that used to be there on downshift, well it's gone.. Accelerate to 60 mph in about 13 seconds, turbo boost at 12 lbs, no smoke at all on acceleration. Incredible car. Wish I had went with Michelin MXV4 instead of the X-One though..


Today is the first day I put her on the freeway after all the repairs, got 26 mpg at about 75 mph, hit a top speed of 115 MPH going DOWNHILL, on level ground the most I can get out of it is about 106-107 indicated on the speedo, which is most likely slower than I'm actually going since I have a bigger tire now. All in all I love the car.

Thanks www.peachparts.com, you guys rock.

I put Bilstein HD's on it, doens't feel all that firm people

Should I replace my springs?

WTF?

Hello friends, I spoke too soon...

Took my car to a DIY carwash, steamcleaned the motor, and water inadvertantly got into the fuse box. I know I know, I made a mistake and let water get in the box.

Got in the car, all was well for about 10 miles, pulled off the road, got back in car, no TACH and no KICKDOWN SWITCH

WTF happened

A lot of water got in the box, and I can see standing water in the fusebox. What happened here......

By the way, the round circle thing that controls the tach is fine, that's not the problem, because I KNOW FOR A FACT that the kickdown switch and the TACH going inop are related.

Please help.

LOL it was just a fuse

Go Yokohama Avid H4's

very good tire (I assume that's what the poll is asking)

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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

Lax,

Great car and clearly in hands of good owner.

Suggst you replace that original breather tube (from top of valve cover to top of air cleaner) with the upgraded flat kind. If not available at FastLane, you can get one from PerformanceProducts for about $10.

Nic
300CD@148k miles

Congrats on a lovely car...the last ones built that could last forever if just taken care of.

Re: the wet fuse box...inside the cover is a cardboard diagram of what fuse goes where, and what it controls.

I took this out, made 3-4 photocopies which I keep in the glovebox with spare fuses. If something odd doesn't work, first look at the chart to see if a fuse might not be the problem. If it is, you'll also know what size fuse you need to replace, and where it goes.

If I have saggy rear springs where do I find new springs?

Are there better "sportline" springs I can get or will they make the car look ridiculous i.e. ricer. I would like it to handle better, not be lower. I don't like the "lowered ricer" look, I just want the vehicle to be more stable on those onramps @ speed.

Best regards
Chris

new springs makes a big improvement if your old ones aren't up to snuff.

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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

LAX300DTurbo how did you fix the clunk when slowing down for a stop sign? My '82 300D Turbo does that but it seems to go away once the car has been running for a while. BTW car looks slick, is it blue or black?

My opinion is that if you want to replace the springs go for stock size, as lowered springs will affect the comfort, not to mention give your classy car an oriental look.

I have the identical car - a 1983 300D sedan, in dark blue, however I added the European lights and had the stock alloy wheels polished and clear powder-coated. I use Pirelli P400 (stock size) all season tires (as I live in a rainy mountainous environment where we have "microclimates" and rapid weather changes, all-season tires seemed to be the best choice) I absolutely love this car, even though it is the 48th car I have owned in my life. I also own a 74' Alfa GTV (2 litre) & a 67' Plymouth GTX (Hemi 4 speed). The MB gets more of my brain-time daydreaming about it, and it is my daily driver. Yours seems nicer, though, being low mileage by comparison, and all fixed up. (My environmental controls will need work this spring)
You lucky bastard!
My biggest fear is that some goof will hit this car & the nazi's at our provincial insurance co. will write it off. I truly lament the thought of this car one day expiring, and if I had more storage
room I would buy anoher one just to have as a spare.

First, VERY nice car! Congrats! I wrote a long post last night and the stupid web site ate it. Anyway, here's a shorter version:


1- Don't put on larger tires than stock (205's). Use the stock 195/70 tires. Larger is NOT better! Really! If you want larger, you need to get wider WHEELS first and then get the correct (wider) tire for that wheel. Mercedes did their homework, don't mess with it. Trust me - BT, DT.


2- The guys on the MBZ.org diesel list swear by Michelin X-Ones for tires. They're pricey but supposedly great stuff. For a decent cheaper tire, I've been happy with Yokohama Avid H4's, same as Cap't Kirk.


3- No Sportline springs are available for the W123. That was only for later W124's. Just get new stock springs, you'll love them. Try FastLane or PartsShop (see links at top of the page), otherwise Rusty at Wholesale Parts (800-741-5252) can get them for you at a discount.


4- Your turbo output is 12psi? Spec is 0.85-0.95 bar, which is 13-14psi. If you can adjust that up a tad you'll get a little more power. Don't exceed ~0.95 bar or the wastegate may open, and/or the overboost circuit may engage - defeating the power increase. A 13-sec 0-60 time is darn good, though! Perhaps your gauge is off...?


5- Bilstien HD's not that firm? I think you should check ALL the rubber suspension bushings on the car - control arms, sway bar, etc, etc. You mentioned front end work but not what specifically was done. This can affect handling drastically. Speaking of rubber items, the 4 rubber brake hoses often get cracked and dangerous after 15+ years. They are cheap (~$10 each) and really should be changed every 5-10 years, regardless of mileage.


Good luck,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
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