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  #1  
Old 12-16-2011, 12:19 PM
julio.garcia.fc's Avatar
Julio Garcia
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 74
87 300 SDL "needs" new injection pump?

My SDL has been leaking a little fuel and oil from the injection pump for a while. It gets worse in the winter. It is mainly annoying. I had it looked at at the MB dealer and for no charge and a nice free loaner, they told me that the only way to fix the leak is to replace the pump for ~$3500. OUCH. It does not leak that much, I do not think. It fills up a little cavity around the motor mount about every three weeks (a table spoon, plus whatever collects on the walls and other crevices around the engine or drips to the ground?). I clean it about every two weeks.

The dealer mechanic was not too terribly concerned, but I would eventually want to replace it.

My questions are these:

  1. How long can/should I wait to replace this?
  2. I am far from an experienced mechanic, so is that something I can replace?
  3. How difficult would that be to replace?
  4. What specialized tools or training are required?
  5. Would this be best done by the MB mechanic, or can I look for another diesel mechanic?
  6. Any diesel mechanic recommendations in northern Colorado?
Thank you.

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1987 300 SDL (mine)
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2011, 01:19 PM
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Delivery valve seals can leak diesel at top connections of pump. Engine oil can leak out of cover plates. Simple repairs for a shop that works on Mercedes.
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2011, 01:25 PM
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Did they say where the pump was leaking and why the only solution was to replace the pump? I'll be interested to see what the more knowledgeable members of this forum have to say, but I think dealers tend not to want to mess with stuff on older vehicles that gets too involved. If you're intent on repairing it, you'd be better served by finding a good independent mechanic who really knows his way around these older diesels. Even a worst case scenario (i.e. replacing the pump) would be a lot cheaper than $3500.

But since it's leaking fairly minimally, maybe just save yourself some money and keep an eye on it.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2011, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post
My questions are these:



How long can/should I wait to replace this?
How much fuel or oil are you willing to drip all over the pavement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post

I am far from an experienced mechanic, so is that something I can replace?
It probably needs delivery valve seals to stop the fuel leak and some o-rings to stop the oil leaks. You need a bit of knowledge and some skills to remove and reinstall the IP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post
How difficult would that be to replace?

Difficult is relative to skill level. Removing the IP to replace the seals is not for the faint of heart. You do need some knowledge or you can get into trouble in a bit way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post

What specialized tools or training are required?
The only specialized tool is the splined socket to remove the delivery valve holders.

Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post

Would this be best done by the MB mechanic, or can I look for another diesel mechanic?
Any mechanic who has M/B diesel experience can do it.
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  #5  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:48 PM
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"Any mechanic who has M/B diesel experience can do it."
I'd take a step back, and say that any shop that works on Bosch injection could do it...
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:51 PM
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The "stealership" is telling you they don't (and probably shouldn't) work on your inline injection pump. BUT they would be happy to sell you a new one.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2011, 04:01 PM
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Julio, one thing you might want to do is look under the Good MB Shops section on this site and see what you find....might direct you to a shop near you that could help you out.
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2011, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julio.garcia.fc View Post
It fills up a little cavity around the motor mount about every three weeks (a table spoon, plus whatever collects on the walls and other crevices around the engine or drips to the ground?)
If the oil is black then my experience with dripping onto the motor mount cavity is due to leaking at the bottom seal. I replaced the seals on 2 of my SDL. It is doable with the IP in the car. The seal is only $3 from MBZ stealership. There is write up on how to replace the seal.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/128556-300sdl-inj-pump-bottom-seal-leaking.html

If it is leaking from the top seal then you need a special 33 (?) teeth socket to remove the top. It is also a DIY job with info in this forum. Not sure where else it can leak.

Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2012, 08:45 PM
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How long can/should I wait to replace this?
I am far from an experienced mechanic, so is that something I can replace?
How difficult would that be to replace?
What specialized tools or training are required?

Answer: I had same (common) problem with my 87 300sdl and dealer wanted to replace. I am a "fair" shade tree mechanic, meaning I am not afraid to try a repair. Before you spend all that money, you should order the IP repair kit (special socket, O rings, etc.) from Mercedes Source or similar, and replace them yourself. I did it (instructions provided with kit) in about 2 hours. There is no need to remove the intake (a little tight but easily doable). This stopped the leaks ... and for a total cost, including special socket, of about $75. With the parts and the instructions, you should really give it a try .... easy breezy.
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2012, 01:55 AM
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Are you sure it's leaking fuel? Do you smell the unmistakable smell?

If oil is pooling in the engine mount arm, my guess is you have a bad o-ring between the IP and block. This can be an unintended consequence of adjusting IP timing after 200K miles.

If you're set on doing something about it, an option is to have your IP rebuilt rather than simply resealed. Gus at Pacific Fuel Injection in South San Francisco, CA used to charge ~$900 plus shipping. That's probably as much as you should pay for a rebuild. Compare that cost to just resealing the IP.

This isn't the job to learn about working on cars. Even simple tasks like getting the throttle linkage ball and socket joints reattached can stump the uninitiated. You'll get your car to a point it doesn't run then get stuck. "Fix a leak" is a much more defined task than "get it running again," and it'll be easier for you to tell if a shop did the job right.

More than someone who just knows MBs and Bosch IPs, I'd take it to someone who works on this particular engine regularly. I'll bet the techs at most MB dealerships these days haven't touched a 603 in a while, if ever.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2012, 11:19 AM
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Julio Garcia
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 74
I had a local MB mechanic recommended to me by a friend that has 87 MB coupe. He works on MBs only and has diesel background and experience. He took a look at it knows the seals that need to be replaced. He definitely does not believe the IP needs to be replaced/rebuilt. I am going to have him repair it. I will keep you posted.

Thanks for the input and insight.
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1987 300 SDL (mine)
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2012, 06:19 PM
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Julio Garcia
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 74
In case anyone cares, here is what was done to my car. The Injection pump gasket was replaced (PN 0010741180). I wanted to have the Seal Ring (0109975648) also replaced, but that required a whole lot more work than I was willing to pay for and the pump would have had to be rebuilt replaced. Instead, they used a sealant and it looks like I have no more leaks. I got on the HW yesterday for a couple of hours and some short stretches of 90 mph, with no apparent leaks. A few days ago, I would have definitely noticed a leak by now. Also, the seal leak was hardly noticeable before anyway, so I think I am OK now.

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2000 Saturn SL AKA "Gocart" (everyone)
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