I'm going to take my instrument cluster out to change the bulbs, as one is out, and the others can't be too far behind.

While I have that out, is there anything else I should do while I'm there, like lube the odometer cable or anything? And if so, how do I do that?

Also, I don't see the link anymore on the DIY area, as to how to take the cluster out. I know a cable has to be loosened from the gas pedal area before doing anything, what are the rest of the instructions? I have the dash removal tool.

Oh! I've since found the link since I posted. It's at......

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124InstCluster

1991 300d, 167k

Pull.

I have never had to take anything loose until the cluster is out far enough to reach my hand in and disconnect the speedo cable.

I have read that some loosen a clip or something to give more slack in the cable, just a step i skip I guess.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Wow guys. If you've never done this, this is a scary job. I thought for sure I was going to break the plastic on the edges of the cluster. I bought German tools to help prevent that. I didn't want to take a chance on some Chinese knock off, that wasn't made to the right specs.

That cluster is in there, but TIGHT! I think the putty knife around the sides, top, and bottom did in fact help, but this was not a pretty job.

Now it's a matter of changing a few bulbs. And even THAT is difficult. Hard to get my hand back in there; I don't want to take off the speedometer or other cables.

haha I see where you're coming from, you have to stare at any potential damage whenever you're driving! I would recommend jumping the rheostat...as far as I'm concerned its just a failure waiting to happen. That's about it though, other than bulb failures and maybe an odo gear failure you're not going to be opening it much.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

I just now looked into that on the forum search, and I've already put my cluster back in, so I'm not going to mess with it again. The one article I read, was from a 1983, and mine's a 1994, so hopefully I have 11 more years to go on mine before it goes bad!

jbach, what did you find about the rheostat - and what's its purpose - where is it?
I'm looking for the cause of my recent "lights out" (no Jr. Seou intended). My 87 300TD has gone dark. I jump started it because the battery died when sat waiting for me to RnR the vac pump. The cluster lights used to be dim, now it's black dark. - cluster and radio and climate control panel - Everything works, but no lights. The warning strip of lights below the cluster works. And the warning light for exterior bulb outage lit-up briefly, but all exterior lights are working, and that bulb-out warning light is now off. Everything works - but it's black dark. Is there a dimmer that may be turned to zero? Any advice?
Thanks

I haven't really played around yet for a dimmer, but searching this forum for a rheostat is easy enough, and/or on google is probably where I found photos, etc.

The rheostat is just simply a device in your cluster area, at least on the car the google search showed. You might even be able to YouTube it as well, and watch a video. But the device is just some little electronic thing, and you clean it because it becomes pitted over time, and builds up an electronic resistance, causing some of your lights, etc., to malfunction.

Since I've already put my cluster back in, I'm not going to mess with mine. Getting the cluster out was a total TRIP!!!! Man, that was hard! I didn't bother undoing some of the things shown on the previous link I posted, since I was just trying to change one bulb. I replaced 3 since I was there, the 2 dash and the glow plug light. Not a job I want to re-do anytime soon, so I replaced what I could.

If you need more advice on getting your cluster out, to get to your rheostat, let me know via email, not private messaging, as I'm not on the forum a lot. I can sell you the tools I bought, they're German Mercedes tools. $28.00 includes shipping.

This for a W123, but the w124 is almost identical. this is a Rheostat Rebuild in the DIY resources.
This will give you an idea what it looks like.
PeachPartsWiki: Dash Light Rheostat Rebuild

I have seen the Rheostat`s with a jumper wire soldered on the back and I have seen them remover and a wire soldered to some female pins and pushed on the 2 contact pins the stat sits on.

new one`s are close to $100 as I remember, I see good one`s in PNP all the time. mine workd good and seems bright enough, and some nights when Iam tired, I can at least turn them down.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The jumper across the two metal studs on the back of the rheostat is usually the best method. It does not modify the board, fixes the problem (you want as much brightness as possible anyway) and leaves things so you can replace the rheostat in future.

Something to remember, DO NOT put any torque on the oil line to the oil gauge unless you want a constant drip of oil into your driver's compartment. Use one wrench to stabilize the housing and another to gently loosen the oil line connector.

Also, don't start your car with the oil line disconnected.

All this is hindsight - I made all the mistakes and paid the price.

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

I know you already put it back in, but for those reading this for help, I would use a q-tip and clean any soot out where the bulbs go in.

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Brad
1981 300TD - daily driver
1963 Chevy II
2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke