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  #1  
Old 12-20-2011, 06:02 PM
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Rear windows won't work

Ok my rear windows won't go down on my 87 300SDL.
It was like this when I bought it and the previous owner though it happened when he spilled some coffee on the center console.
The second day I had it the front passenger side one also stopped working but I found out that that was because of a blown fuse.
I checked the switches and they will both make the front windows go up and down when inserted into those blocks.... could the blocks go bad???I couldn't find a fuse for the rear windows so i'm guessing they are tied into the front ones.

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  #2  
Old 12-20-2011, 06:35 PM
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Just a guess

This is not advice, just a guess....

When you have a remote control for a tv, etc., sometimes they get a bit of that battery acid on them, or even oils from your fingers on the AA battery terminals can make them not give power. So you can use a small fingernail file to scratch that off the terminals or contacts, and it will sometimes then make good contact, and your remote control will work once again.

It's possible that's what this area needs as well. Maybe the coffee stains are preventing proper electrical contact. Try scraping the contacts with anything that will rough them up some.

Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 12-20-2011, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbach36 View Post
This is not advice, just a guess....

When you have a remote control for a tv, etc., sometimes they get a bit of that battery acid on them, or even oils from your fingers on the AA battery terminals can make them not give power. So you can use a small fingernail file to scratch that off the terminals or contacts, and it will sometimes then make good contact, and your remote control will work once again.

It's possible that's what this area needs as well. Maybe the coffee stains are preventing proper electrical contact. Try scraping the contacts with anything that will rough them up some.

Good luck.

The switches will work in the front blocks though.
Maybe the female contacts in the rear blocks are gummed up though. got to find something to take a look down in there.
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92 Toyota Land Cruiser 4x4 monster (heavily modified)
build thread on mud http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/288587-rotf-lt1fire.html

84 K1500 GMC Suburban 6.2 diesel motor...... dying to offer its engine to the Land Cruiser
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  #4  
Old 12-20-2011, 06:57 PM
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Do the switches on the doors operate the windows?
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2011, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Do the switches on the doors operate the windows?
Thats a good point that I forgot to include in the first post. No they don't.
Which to me would normally mean a fuse or a relay but as far as I can tell the relay controls all 4 and there are 2 fuses for the 4 windows.
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build thread on mud http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/288587-rotf-lt1fire.html

84 K1500 GMC Suburban 6.2 diesel motor...... dying to offer its engine to the Land Cruiser
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  #6  
Old 12-20-2011, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt1fire View Post
Thats a good point that I forgot to include in the first post. No they don't.
Which to me would normally mean a fuse or a relay but as far as I can tell the relay controls all 4 and there are 2 fuses for the 4 windows.
Pull out the LR switch in the console and find sockets 1,2, and 3 in the plug.

Check for 12V on socket 3..........that's the first requirement. The voltage comes from fuse "d".

If you have voltage on socket 3, jump 3 to both 1 and 2, simultaneously.

Attempt to open the LR window with the switch on the LR door. BE SURE THE SAFETY SWITCH IS NOT LOCKING OUT THE TWO REAR WINDOWS. Try it in both positions.

Report back.
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2011, 07:34 PM
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Pull the rubber piece off in the door jam where the wires run through and see if there is any breakage in the circuit. Twas the case for my 124...
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2011, 07:43 PM
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Yes.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbobshinigin View Post
Pull the rubber piece off in the door jam where the wires run through and see if there is any breakage in the circuit. Twas the case for my 124...
Ditto....In the two 123's I have had, I needed to replace a couple of wires in the window circuit where they pass through the rubber flex sleeve from the central pillar into the rear door....a couple of those wires are real prone to cracking with age causing short in the circuit.

Mark
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2011, 07:49 PM
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not likely.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkM View Post
Ditto....In the two 123's I have had, I needed to replace a couple of wires in the window circuit where they pass through the rubber flex sleeve from the central pillar into the rear door....a couple of those wires are real prone to cracking with age causing short in the circuit.

Mark
..........both rear windows suffering the identical fate...........
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2011, 04:49 PM
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this is true

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
..........both rear windows suffering the identical fate...........
True this is unlikely, however, based on my experience, if wires have degraded in one door harness, they are also degraded in the other. (there are only 2 or 3 wires in that harness prone to serious degradation...I mean real drying and cracking and insulation coming completely off the wires). While it is unlikely that this is a "coincidental" cause of both windows not operating, I would not rule it out.

An easy potential check on this is this...while the car is parked, open rear doors back and forth to various positions and try operating the windows several times in various positions using the front console switches. If the cause is a short in that harness, you may be able to temporarily eliminate the short by opening doors to various positions.

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