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  #1  
Old 01-01-2012, 03:00 PM
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W124 Vibration Damper Broke - can I cut it off?

Yep, you heard me. Can I cut the detached outer ring of the drive shaft vibration damper off the drive shaft so I don't have to undo the flex disk and all that junk? My vibration damper rubber cracked and came loose, so the outer ring is free from the inner section that is bolted to the driveshaft.

From what I read, the vibration damper doesn't do anything and was discontinued in later models. I have a 1992 300D.

If I do detach the drive shaft to get the vibration damper off, is it just a case of loosening the bolts at the flex disk/AT end, or do I have to do the other end too, like the FSM says?

Thanks.

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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post
Yep, you heard me. Can I cut the detached outer ring of the drive shaft vibration damper off the drive shaft so I don't have to undo the flex disk and all that junk? My vibration damper rubber cracked and came loose, so the outer ring is free from the inner section that is bolted to the driveshaft.

From what I read, the vibration damper doesn't do anything and was discontinued in later models. I have a 1992 300D.

If I do detach the drive shaft to get the vibration damper off, is it just a case of loosening the bolts at the flex disk/AT end, or do I have to do the other end too, like the FSM says?

Thanks.
It is there to damp out torsional chatter and if you have significant backlash in the crown wheel & pinion your gonna miss it. Just loosen the sleeve nut and you have enough space to slide the centering sleeve off - no need to loosen other end. Leave the flex plate on the A/T. Shouldn't take much longer than cutting that ring off!
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  #3  
Old 01-01-2012, 05:54 PM
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Thanks Beagle.

Can you clarify two things for me please.

By sleeve nut, you mean the nut towards the back of the car, away from the A/T?

The bolts can move around rotationally in the flex disk, like the holes are too big. Is that normal?

thanks
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #4  
Old 01-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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The bolts should not move independant of the rubber flex disc, if they are - get a new flex disc as soon as yesterday. If that lets go - you will have a parts car.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #5  
Old 01-01-2012, 09:38 PM
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Thanks Zulfigar, I did a bit of reading and you're right. Might have just saved me from disaster....close one.
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #6  
Old 01-01-2012, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post

By sleeve nut, you mean the nut towards the back of the car, away from the A/T?
The female spline on the front shaft section is split and clamps onto the male spline coming out of the U/joint with the taper sleeve nut. the nut is (I think) 46mm. It should have a rubber boot over the spline which you will have to roll forward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrayton View Post
The bolts can move around rotationally in the flex disk, like the holes are too big. Is that normal?thanks
Not quite sure what you mean here. The Allen cap screw goes right through a sleeve moulded into the flex disc and is secured with 17mm self locking nut on the A/t side. If that sleeve is turning in the flex disc the disc is scrap.

I hope this makes some sense to you - difficult to explain without a diagram.
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  #7  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:40 PM
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I'm replacing the flex disk. Got the old one off, definitely screwed and good thing I'm replacing it.

However, I'm having a helluva time tightening the drive shaft onto the flexdisc. The raised section on the flexdisc isn't going into the driveshaft and sitting flush. See picture - where my finger is pointing (on the old, removed flexdisc) is not going into the driveshaft. Should it? I think it should, but I don't want to strip the bolt tightening it in. Tried a clamp and a hammer to drive it in, but no dice.

EDIT: Checked in FSM, the sticking out tube bit should be inside the driveshaft. So I wondering if something isn't aligned correctly. Second picture is from the FSM talking about if the vibration damper is removed you have to align it properly, but I didn't take the vibration damper flange off the driveshaft.

Any advice?
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W124 Vibration Damper Broke - can I cut it off?-img_0144-small.jpg   W124 Vibration Damper Broke - can I cut it off?-snap5.jpg  
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

Last edited by pdrayton; 01-07-2012 at 07:17 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:54 PM
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the raised boss should go into the driveshaft or gearbox flange depending on which side of the disc we are talking about, the driveshaft is slightly bent at the sloping angle and it can become a wrestling match to seat it but it should just self align and be pulled into the hole once you start tightening the bolts.

What brand flex disc are you using? and be sure to face the disc correctly, the side that says diese seite zur gelenkwe means this side towards driveshaft. Or the transmission shifts become a little yanky
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2012, 07:20 PM
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I've got a URO brand flexdisc.

I'm talking about the drive shaft end, the boss is not sitting flush.

Should it slide in flush by hand? Perhaps since I tightened the transmission side bolts already, the drive shaft is at an angle like you said. But will I need new self locking nuts if I loosen them, or can I just put some locktite on them?

Yes, disc is facing the correct direction, I made sure of that.
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2012, 07:29 PM
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Get those URO discs off there ASAP. Order MB ones and replace when you get them. URO is probably the worst brand to buy for any car out there. I have had ALL my URO stuff fail and I know of one member who installed URO flex discs and now he has a parts car. THink he had them installed for a matter of months.

Heck, the fact you are having a bad time fitting them might even be because they are URO. They use a very, very poor metal and tolerances are more of an afterthought to them.
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1992 750il / 17k miles - project car
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2012, 09:53 PM
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Aaarrrrggghhhh! I should have checked that in the beginning.

oh well, I''ll return it and get the OEM version. Don't need a parts car just yet...

This one below is what I want, right?

O.E.M. Flex Disc Kit Front part 124 410 06 15

Thanks for the heads up.

Paul
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2012, 10:00 PM
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That works, or check with Pelican Parts - they should have it cheaper.

And avoid URO for anything. Even the little things. I can not believe they are even allowed to make car parts! I have one URO part left on my car, an upper control arm. I was being cheap and needed it fast. It started to fail a few months after install. I have had it about a year now and its totally shot. Creaks and everything. The original factory on on the other side is tighter and the boot is in better shape! lol
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:05 PM
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Returned the URO trash, and put on the Lemforder OEM Flexdisk today. What a breeze, went on easily, not like the URO trash which wouldn't fit the bosses in the driveshaft.

Thanks for the help, glad I got rid of that poor quality URO junk.

Paul
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2012, 07:08 PM
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Godo thing Paul. And its sad that I was right that the fitment issue might be just because they are URO.

Avoid those parts at any cost, literally.

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car
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