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  #1  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:15 AM
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1985 W123 Front-End Rebuild

My 195,000 85 300D is having some wandering issues, excessive Steering wheel play the most obvious. I'll be the first to admit the steering may be fine and I'm just not used to MB type steering compared to say a Volvo rack setup.
I haven't fully inspected the front end yet and will need to have it lifted and checked out in a shop but I am thinking at least the centerlink and tie-rods need to be replaced. Suppose I just decide to do the whole thing, UCAs, LCAs etc. Is there a "kit" to rebuild everything in the front end? Is this a driveway doable job or am I going to need the thing professionally done. I have the tools, maybe the talent, probably not the body but I think I could maybe get some help with the teardown.
My thinking is that since I'm there I may as well fix everything and then proceed to the rear for mounts and stuff.
Opinions? Experiences? Detailed instructions? (I'll get a or rebuild the steering box too).
Thanks Much

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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:18 AM
vstech's Avatar
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gotta love the wikki resources!
PeachPartsWiki: Front End Suspension Rebuild
have fun!
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:40 AM
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From doing it twice:

- Dont buy Febi front suspension parts - they don't last. OE or Lemfoerder would be my recommendations.
- steering box reman - i have had great results with two boxes from C&M Hydraulics in Las Vegas, NV.

A full job is AMAZING when complete. Stunning how nice the car rides with refreshed steering and suspension.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:54 AM
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Forgot about the wiki stuff here. The job looks pretty doable and my front end isn't badly rusted so take apart shouldn't be impossible. I am going to see about the spring compressor as I am aware these springs can take your head off. This will be a fun project if I can get my act together in the spring. Looking at the UCAs, mine don't look all that bad. Maybe I will try a slight steering box adjustment and check the tie rods etc closely first. The previous owners of my car were known to take pretty good care of the thing. The air cleaner was in good shape and I was able to find written information under the hood tracking valve adjustments. This is my 3rd 123 of this vintage, but the first that was in good enough shape to consider heavy maintenance to keep it rolling. It'll always be a daily driver but hopefully a lot less daily miles when I retire soon (In my dreams).
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:22 PM
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I did my whole front end two summers ago. It's not too bad. You'll need a spring compressor and a press to push in the new lower ball joints. I was able to rent a press from Riley's for free. I had to pay a $150 deposit, which I was refunded fully when I returned it. I did one side at a time, and went slow. Took me about 12-14 hours of working from start to finish.
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
I did my whole front end two summers ago. It's not too bad. You'll need a spring compressor and a press to push in the new lower ball joints. I was able to rent a press from Riley's for free. I had to pay a $150 deposit, which I was refunded fully when I returned it. I did one side at a time, and went slow. Took me about 12-14 hours of working from start to finish.
Was the the Klann type press or a C-Press you rented to press in the ball joints.
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  #7  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:33 PM
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There is a complete front end kit. However it is all Uro Parts that are not the best quality.

Have someone rock the Steering Wheel back and forth slowly.

If the Steering Wheel moves but the Pitman Arm does not move try adjusting the play on the Steering Box with the Adjuster Screw.

If the Steering Wheel still moves a lot and the Pitman Arm is still not moving; and you are out of adjustment your Steering Box might benefit from rebuilding.
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  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Was the the Klann type press or a C-Press you rented to press in the ball joints.
It was a C-press.

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'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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