...except that most of the time it happens when I have to stop by my bank!

Anyway, every now and then I'll stop by my bank, run in and use the ATM or whatnot, come back out to start the car, and suddenly it won't wanna start. It'll crank and crank, and when it does start it's like the car has very little power at all, like it'll die at any moment. When that happens I can turn the car off, wait a few seconds, and try it again. It may take a few tries before it'll start and run like normal. And like I said, it mostly happens when I go to the bank! =P

(If I try to drive when the car is lugging like that, it'll actually take a few seconds after I step on the gas pedal to start moving, and slowly at that, but once it gets up to speed it seems fine, at least until I get to a red light or a stop sign)

What could be the problem here? It doesn't happen often, but enough that it annoys me when it does.

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1983 240D, 272K+ miles (odo broke)

Next time happens, pull the brown vacuum line off the shut off valve on the back of the IP and see if the problem goes away. I suspect your ignition switch is not bleeding off the vacuum going to the shut off valve.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I have that same problem. I have been suspecting a vacuum problem and bought a mity-vac but haven't had time to troubleshoot. kerry, is it usually a leak in the line or problem with the ignition switch?

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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD

It's the opposite of a leak. The ignition switch, when turned to 'go' is supposed to bleed off the vacuum that was introduced to shut off the engine. If it doesn't the shut off diaphragm is still engaged. This problem usually manifests itself during short stops when the vacuum hasn't slowly bled off over time without the ignition switch. Hence the significance of 'it only happens when I go to the bank' thingy.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

So, what's the fix then? Replace ignition switch?

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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD

Or make my errand runs longer, I guess

EDIT: A few years ago I had a problem with my car not shutting off after I took the key out of the ignition. To remedy that, one of the vacuum lines was pulled out -- I do not know which one, however, and it also disabled the vacuum on my car door locks so now I have to lock and unlock them manually. Does that bit of info help?

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1983 240D, 272K+ miles (odo broke)

There is a vacuum valve on the ignition that goes bad. It's a pain to get to, but a lot cheaper than an ignition switch. I've experienced the same symptoms that kerry is stating. And it was fixed with the vac valve on the ignition

This is what you want-
OES GENUINE Shut Off Valve,W0133-1624834 - PeachParts

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If the door lock line was plugged in the engine bay than it shouldn't be affecting the shut-off. Your symptoms aren't a lack of vacuum, it's a lack of the valve bleeding the vacuum off after the engine shuts down.
You can also try shutting the car off with the STOP lever on the engine. This will bypass the vac shut down. If the car starts up normally then the valve is bad.

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Yeah, pressing the STOP lever was how I'd shut it off before the vacuum line was pulled.

So the solution to both byronnash's problem and my problem is a new valve then? Does that also take care of the problem I addressed in the original post?

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1983 240D, 272K+ miles (odo broke)

Yes it should, but first try the Stop lever or pulling the vac line off the shut off valve on the IP when you have the hard start issue. Pulling the vac line should bleed the vac and allow the car to start like normal.

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Is the vacuum line to the shut off actuator clean or are you pulling crud into the key switch?

Sixto
87 300D

What if the Stop lever won't shut it off? It retards the function a good bit but not enough to kill it.

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"Gerwalt" 1984 - 300TD

X2 -I agree. Most probably the vac diaphragm is leaking and the brown line to the ignition switch is full of oil. Cold weather thickens the oil and slows down or prevents shut off and some times start. Disconnect the pipe at the switch and shut off valve and give it a thorough blow through with a aerosol can of penetrating oil - Then turn the can upside down to blow out the penetrating oil.

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Beagle

There were a few other things that I need to remove the instrument panel to fix, I guess I can just add this to the list then! My husband says it's a PITA to remove, so I suppose I oughta make it worth his while, eh?

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1983 240D, 272K+ miles (odo broke)

The instrument cluster isn't that hard to remove. Pushing it out from behind is safer than using hooks down the sides of the cluster. But you have to remove the kick panel under the dash.

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