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  #1  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:17 PM
clintard's Avatar
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Anywhere to buy rear door check for 83 300D

My rear door is stuck shut but i can get it open if i drive down a bumpy road and wiggle the handle. I need to replace the door check but i was told that part isnt made anymore and id have a hell of a time finding one.

Is there any place to buy one? If not, if i can get the old one out is there anything i can do to fix it?

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  #2  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:38 PM
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Answer

I use the front door check, and straighten the bent tab.

Door check
123 720 05 16
APA Door Check,W0133-1631075 - PeachParts
SPECIAL ORDER MEYLE Front Door Check...123 720 05 16 MY,1237200516 - PeachParts


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  #3  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:08 AM
He/Him
 
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Be aware. I have ordered Meyle in the past and the end that connects to the door jam with a pin sometimes is too small. The pin will not fit into the hole in the check.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:16 AM
clintard's Avatar
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is there a writeup or pictorial on this anywhere? I want to make absolute sure it will work before i purchase. Ive never changed a door check or had the part in hand to look at it so im not sure what it would entail. Is it a hard job to tackle? Does the door panel have to come off? Thank you guys you are life savers
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintard View Post
is there a writeup or pictorial on this anywhere? I want to make absolute sure it will work before i purchase. Ive never changed a door check or had the part in hand to look at it so im not sure what it would entail. Is it a hard job to tackle? Does the door panel have to come off? Thank you guys you are life savers
Really easy. I've had to do it in the rain, while it was snowing, etc...

You need to remove the door card. Tools required are standard screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, paint scraper/putty knife, and a 10mm or 13mm socket (I can't remember).


Be careful, many things on this job can be broken easily.
1. Start with the door lock plunger, unscrew it.
2. Remove the chrome plate/piece surrounding the locking assembly of the door. (2x phillips)
3. Remove the armrest by removing two screws underneath. (2x large philips)
4. Pry out the black plastic behind the door handle, start from a corner with a flathead screwdriver.
5. Remove the door handle chrome surround (1x small philips)
6. Take the putty knife and insert it up to the handle between the door card and door, pull out gently. There are popping inserts around the sides and bottom perimeter of the door, you need to pop all of them out gently.
7. Reach behind and disconnect the window switch, or if you have manual you need to remove the handle.
8. Now with all the inserts removed you can pull the door card up and it will "unhook" from the window.
9. Pry the plastic backing up from the bottom corner near the door jam just enough to do the job, you need to use spray adhesive to reapply it after you are done.
10. On the door jam remove the little sheet metal pin holder at the bottom of the retaining pin. Then wiggle the door until you can slide the pin up and out. DO NOT HYPEREXTEND THE DOOR.
11. The door check is held on to the door with 3 hex bolts (10mm ?). One on the face of the door and two on the end of the door where the door check emerges from the door. Remove all of these being careful not to open the door too far.
12. Put the new check in place and reinstall the three hex head bolts. They are a bear to align so just get them started. Do not torque all the way down.
13. Install the door check to the door jam, you might have to play with aligning the check. Once pin is reinstalled torque down bolts in door.


Replace plastic, reinstall is reverse. When reinstalling the door card put the door card in place and install the door lock knob to make it easier to install the card.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

Last edited by martureo; 01-11-2012 at 02:52 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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Anyone have pics of this, so us DIYers can follow it better, as some of the names of parts may be confusing.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
Anyone have pics of this, so us DIYers can follow it better, as some of the names of parts may be confusing.
I understand what you mean but I think if you print out Matureo's instructions and then look at the door panel it should be clear.

This may help as well: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/93629-removing-w126-rear-door-panel.html

It's actually a very easy job. If anything Matureo (unintentionally) made it seem complicated than it is, just because he gave very detailed instructions on each step of how to do everything.

The only thing I would note is, where he said:

Quote:
2. Remove the check plate surrounding the locking portion of the door. (2x phillips)
He means the backwards-C-shaped (more or less) chrome trim piece on the inside door panel, where the 'male' part of the door striker is. I had never heard the term "check plate" so this gave me a few seconds pause.
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Last edited by Zacharias; 01-11-2012 at 12:37 PM. Reason: Added linkback
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
I understand what you mean but I think if you print out Matureo's instructions and then look at the door panel it should be clear.

This may help as well: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/93629-removing-w126-rear-door-panel.html

It's actually a very easy job. If anything Matureo (unintentionally) made it seem complicated than it is, just because he gave very detailed instructions on each step of how to do everything.

The only thing I would note is, where he said:



He means the backwards-C-shaped (more or less) chrome trim piece on the inside door panel, where the 'male' part of the door striker is. I had never heard the term "check plate" so this gave me a few seconds pause.
Hah, I meant to put "chrome plate/piece" but after writing "check" so many times my mind probably substituted it.

I've changed it.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2012, 06:02 PM
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Be gentle with the door card else you'll break the plastic tabs. It pulls up to release.

also be gentle releasing the plastic pieces in the door. Screwdriver and brute force will break. Gental prying will not.
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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Door Check on a 300D ('85)

Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
I use the front door check, and straighten the bent tab.

Door check
123 720 05 16
APA Door Check,W0133-1631075 - PeachParts
SPECIAL ORDER MEYLE Front Door Check...123 720 05 16 MY,1237200516 - PeachParts


.
Same solution for the back doors on a >>85<< 300D now that the replacement rear door checks have been discontinued on a 85??
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Last edited by 300dOwner; 01-19-2012 at 05:51 PM. Reason: typu
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  #11  
Old 01-19-2012, 10:25 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by 300dOwner View Post
Same solution for the back doors on a >>85<< 300D now that the replacement rear door checks have been discontinued on a 85??
Yes, there is no other option at the moment.

.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Be gentle with the door card else you'll break the plastic tabs. It pulls up to release.

also be gentle releasing the plastic pieces in the door. Screwdriver and brute force will break. Gental prying will not.
Your W126 has the "J" hooks on the door card, the W123 just pops on/off with the plastic buttons. the plastic buttons are a replaceable available item if broken.

I do believe the w123 front door plastic pockets might have a "J" hook that holds it as well as the buttons.

Charlie
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2012, 04:24 AM
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Yeah, Phil couldn't even get them from a dealer when mine went bad last summer.

I did an experiment because we're going to start needing adaptable parts, and adapted one from a recent model (500 Sel maybe? and some others). Turns out they differ in strap length, but only by a few mm. The big difference was mounting holes. However, the ones with the flat mounting were a simple bend of the back mounting hole from fitting. You have to cut some metal to allow the bend, but once bent to the proper angle, they fit perfectly.

Some models use a completely different check that obviously won't fit, but the two of similar design (but with flat mounting holes) worked.

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