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Anywhere to buy rear door check for 83 300D
My rear door is stuck shut but i can get it open if i drive down a bumpy road and wiggle the handle. I need to replace the door check but i was told that part isnt made anymore and id have a hell of a time finding one.
Is there any place to buy one? If not, if i can get the old one out is there anything i can do to fix it?
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--------------------------- Clint. 1983 300D turbo, 150k http://www.youtube.com/clintard |
#2
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I use the front door check, and straighten the bent tab.
Door check 123 720 05 16 APA Door Check,W0133-1631075 - PeachParts SPECIAL ORDER MEYLE Front Door Check...123 720 05 16 MY,1237200516 - PeachParts .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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Be aware. I have ordered Meyle in the past and the end that connects to the door jam with a pin sometimes is too small. The pin will not fit into the hole in the check.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
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is there a writeup or pictorial on this anywhere? I want to make absolute sure it will work before i purchase. Ive never changed a door check or had the part in hand to look at it so im not sure what it would entail. Is it a hard job to tackle? Does the door panel have to come off? Thank you guys you are life savers
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--------------------------- Clint. 1983 300D turbo, 150k http://www.youtube.com/clintard |
#5
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You need to remove the door card. Tools required are standard screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, paint scraper/putty knife, and a 10mm or 13mm socket (I can't remember). Be careful, many things on this job can be broken easily. 1. Start with the door lock plunger, unscrew it. 2. Remove the chrome plate/piece surrounding the locking assembly of the door. (2x phillips) 3. Remove the armrest by removing two screws underneath. (2x large philips) 4. Pry out the black plastic behind the door handle, start from a corner with a flathead screwdriver. 5. Remove the door handle chrome surround (1x small philips) 6. Take the putty knife and insert it up to the handle between the door card and door, pull out gently. There are popping inserts around the sides and bottom perimeter of the door, you need to pop all of them out gently. 7. Reach behind and disconnect the window switch, or if you have manual you need to remove the handle. 8. Now with all the inserts removed you can pull the door card up and it will "unhook" from the window. 9. Pry the plastic backing up from the bottom corner near the door jam just enough to do the job, you need to use spray adhesive to reapply it after you are done. 10. On the door jam remove the little sheet metal pin holder at the bottom of the retaining pin. Then wiggle the door until you can slide the pin up and out. DO NOT HYPEREXTEND THE DOOR. 11. The door check is held on to the door with 3 hex bolts (10mm ?). One on the face of the door and two on the end of the door where the door check emerges from the door. Remove all of these being careful not to open the door too far. 12. Put the new check in place and reinstall the three hex head bolts. They are a bear to align so just get them started. Do not torque all the way down. 13. Install the door check to the door jam, you might have to play with aligning the check. Once pin is reinstalled torque down bolts in door. Replace plastic, reinstall is reverse. When reinstalling the door card put the door card in place and install the door lock knob to make it easier to install the card.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] Last edited by martureo; 01-11-2012 at 02:52 PM. |
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Anyone have pics of this, so us DIYers can follow it better, as some of the names of parts may be confusing.
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1983 300D, the "Avocado" 1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre 1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002 |
#7
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This may help as well: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/93629-removing-w126-rear-door-panel.html It's actually a very easy job. If anything Matureo (unintentionally) made it seem complicated than it is, just because he gave very detailed instructions on each step of how to do everything. The only thing I would note is, where he said: Quote:
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 Last edited by Zacharias; 01-11-2012 at 12:37 PM. Reason: Added linkback |
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I've changed it.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#9
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Be gentle with the door card else you'll break the plastic tabs. It pulls up to release.
also be gentle releasing the plastic pieces in the door. Screwdriver and brute force will break. Gental prying will not.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
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Door Check on a 300D ('85)
Quote:
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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong Last edited by 300dOwner; 01-19-2012 at 05:51 PM. Reason: typu |
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I do believe the w123 front door plastic pockets might have a "J" hook that holds it as well as the buttons. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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Yeah, Phil couldn't even get them from a dealer when mine went bad last summer.
I did an experiment because we're going to start needing adaptable parts, and adapted one from a recent model (500 Sel maybe? and some others). Turns out they differ in strap length, but only by a few mm. The big difference was mounting holes. However, the ones with the flat mounting were a simple bend of the back mounting hole from fitting. You have to cut some metal to allow the bend, but once bent to the proper angle, they fit perfectly. Some models use a completely different check that obviously won't fit, but the two of similar design (but with flat mounting holes) worked.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
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