The transmission of the 1983 300TDT of a friend of mine leaked. So we decided it was probably the front oil seal of the transmission that was leaking, so we dropped the transmission and removed the torque converter. The bottom of the front oil pump assembly was clearly leaking oil and after we removed it, we discovered that no gasket was used.



As we had all the internal seals, we proceeded with the disassembly of the oil pump. The bearing was inspected and found to be damaged:







The FSM says if the bearing is damaged, that the entire oil pump has to replaced. What is your opinion? And can only the bearing be replaced, or is it always the entire pump?

I do not think it is even possible to buy the bearing . Have you tried to find it?

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Mercedes OE FRONT Pump A/T 260E 300CD 300CE 300D 300E | eBay

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Since it apparently has been in there a long time; if what ever the Bearing rides on looks OK simply reuse it.
If you want a new one using the ebay part number (1402700097) I found one at $285; PM me as I cannot post the Seller.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Can you get to see the rest of the internals in the pump like in a 722.1?

If so I'd look for more damage before deciding to change the bearing.

If the cog surfaces inside the pump are worn - or it is making swarf(!) - then I'd say don't reuse it. The pump sits on the safe side of the filter remember so anything that comes out of it will end up in parts of the transmission where it can do the most harm.

However, if you think there's nothing wrong with it clean it all up and replace the bearing.

If you post up the size of the bearing I can help find a replacement part if you don't want to go through people such as the dealer or

Ganzeboom - Transmissies - Transmission Parts

(also in Amsterdam as well as next to me on the edge of Germany!)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

MB hasn't got the bearing listed as a separate part, but at Ganzeboom (the link Army provided, thanks) has it as a separate part:



Number 34 I think.

But do you need machine-shop tools to put it in (and get the old bearing out)? Or is it pressed in? I don't know the size at the moment, it is still in the pump.

The cog wheel and ring cog seem fine to me, but what do I know.



UPDATE: Ganzewinkel was called, bearing is about €6 and can be pressed in. The only question remaining is why the bearing is damaged in the first place, that can be caused by too much play on the pump cog wheels.

Pull the front pump apart and look at the mating surfaces to see if there is any wear.

The cogs should be able to fall out a bit more like in this picture (722.1 front pump)



...and you can go further but I don't have any more pictures of it totally in bits to hand...

(Don't forget to line the holes in the pump with the casting when you get to that stage => http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304903-722-118-automatic-transmission-rebuild-monster-diy-3.html - but that's for later on)

Post up pictures of any wear if you are unsure - I might be able to say if there is a problem or not.

Good news about the bearing @ Ganzeboom

But like you say why did it fail in the first place? It could just be bad luck - I don't know much about the 722.3 yet as I still haven't gotten around to pulling that transmission apart yet - all I can ask is =>

How does the end of the input shaft feel? It will probably be loose now that the front pump is out - but can you see any problems with it?

If you are feeling brave I'd pull the valve body out (not take it to bits - just remove) and see if you can see anything that doesn't look quite right.

I think the 722.3 is supported (like the 722.1) at three bearing points - one at the front just in front of the gearset; one at the back of the gearset; and one in the tail cone. Any serious wear in these three "gearset support bearings" should be evident.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Oh yeah and you say too much play in the front pump cog wheels... play in which direction? I don't quite get what you mean...

...are you thinking too much play in the cogs caused bearing failure?

Could you post up a picture of the torque converter and how this bit looks?

I think the nasty marks on the inner part of the bearing race (see post #1) were probably caused by enthusiastic installation techniques...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

That makes sense. Isn't there some sort of spec or tolerance for the distance between that crescent-shaped feature and the cog in the manual? You might try measuring that. I would say if you can get the part cheaply and find a machine shop to fix it cheaply, do it.

As Army says, pull the cog out and examine the inner pump surface ( I am sure you have already). Post a picture. I wouldn't be overly concerned about reusing what you have , from what I see of it. You need to consider how long you want the repair to last. Are you completely rebuilding a transmission and engine and want to get 250K miles out of the pair, or just get another 50-100K out of it before we all have to switch to hydrogen or donkey carts?

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

We went in the end to Autrans, also a machine shop specialised in gearboxes, it was a little bit closer, that saved us a bit of driving. They had a look at the pump, it wasn't new, they said, but it was passable. The ring cog wheel should not have play, the inner cog wheel should have a bit of play. They put in the new bearing for €26.

The bearing makes contact with the axle of the torque converter, and it engages the two tabs of the cog wheel. I shall take a picture and post later.

I will check the axle of the transmission.

Why did it fail? That is an interesting question. The original transmission of this car was damaged and the previous owner replaced it with another turbodiesel transmission. As I said, the gasket of the oil pump housing was not installed, so I think the pump has been removed once and replaced/reinstalled, but without the gasket.

We are not looking for an entire rebuilt and we are not that brave, the main issue was the leakage.

Thanks all, we are now going to install the pump.

Here are some pictures I promised:

This is the oil pump (without the plate)



This is the torque converter



Here you can see the oil pump on the torque converter



And here is the new bearing



Thanks all.

I found what appears to be a replacement bearing. It is a Sonnax Pump Bushing Part Number 6800401 available for approximately $13.50. I have ordered one and will report later how it installs.

ZF Transmissions are used on more then a few European Cars so there is parts available.

I am working on my Chevy Van Transmission to fix a seal leak and it had a loose pump bearing. When I pulled off the Pump I decided to look further and found other stuff wrong inside like clutch plates with missing teeth. And so on.
Other then changing a B2 Piston and Filter I had never done transmission work. And, I am not happy about doing this work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would not call "missing" teeth an issue. Frequently teeth on the ID of frictions and OD of steels are clipped to allow fluid to escape / make room for an in factory assembly tool to line everything up. Sometimes these marks and other on steels identify plate thickness.

Hmmm... looks like pry marks on that bearing surface and at the edges

It would be strange to get marks perpendicular to the axis of rotation

Like this was apart before and the bearing was scratched up

Maybe was installed ages ago with a screwdriver and hammer. If so, it could have been deformed. Or perhaps a seal replacement job...with the shaft out?

Almost looks like a connecting rod bearing minus the Babbitt

I would definitely freeze the bearing before dropping it in

Wouldn't want to back be in there for at least another 150 years...

snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....