I've searched til I'm woozy and can't find a definitive answer to this. I have the car sorted out pretty well and it runs just fine. However, in search of every little bit of power possible, will removing the muffler or resonator (which is which anyway?) give me any more? I'm primarily on the highway with my foot buried in it.
A straight pipe is out of the question so if this does help, which item would you remove? If I were to do this I'd probably remove the front muffler(?) so as to retain my factory hangers but would do whatever helped more.
Thanks in advance!

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1983 M-B 240D-Gone too.
1976 M-B 300D-Departed.

"Good" is the worst enemy of "Great".

I have removed the rear muffler on my turbo cars and on my 500SEc gasser and got a little more noise and no issues. I also have removed the middle muffler on my 300d NA with no issues.'

Four cylinders might be a little more noisy though. I would try to find someone who has done it on a 240 and see what their results were.

I believe in some cases I got a little more power and a little more fuel economy but mainly I do it because I like a little rumble.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

No, the stock system is larger than required for maximum power.
On a perfect OM616 engine changes to the exhaust will only increase or decrease sound.

There are some maintenance issues that can restore power, if it is running poorly.

There are a few power tweaks that may give a couple more hp, if the engine is in good condition = not tired/worn out.

If you are looking for more power, it is simpler and cheaper to buy a good condition 300SD or 300D turbo.

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I had my old exhaust fall off, so when I replaced it I deleted the resonator( the first muffler) and also used the muffler and pipes from a 300d. I did not see any change in power. It was nice to have when I added the turbo since it connected right up to the 300d exhaust.

Look at the "eeking out more performance on a 240d" and you will see some good ideas. I know it is a long winded post, but some good things are in there. The most bang for the buck are ip tuning and enlarging the pre chamber holes.

In the end I did turbo mine with a new(rebuilt) engine too. Can we say power....it"s fun now....

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1977 240D turbo

You can squeak a little more pep out of the 616, but stretching the spring in the fuel pressure relief valve on the IP. The spring gets tired and doesn't allow the IP to build as much fuel pressure. It will give you a little more but not much, but any increase when all you've got is 64 is a good increase. Here is a link to adjusting the spring.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/234609-fuel-pressure-relief-valve-adjustment.html

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You can rebuild the engine and have the liners bored to use the over sized pistons. My 79 (80 engine) 240D is not exactly a rocket but it has more zip than any other 240 I've driven. The pistons are not allot over sized but it helped.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Thanks for all the comments. I'm gathering that any performance gains aren't to be found by changing the exhaust.
I've stretched the spring in the fuel relief valve and it seemed to help a little. It was quite a bit shorter than spec.
I read the "eking out" thread and have played with the IP a bit-mainly screwing in the full throttle stop a couple rounds (how far is ok?) and then re-adjusting the linkage to hit it. I haven't messed with the rack limiter or torque capsule yet-not brave enough I guess.
It actually does run pretty good and is a good, tight engine. I (like most 240D owners) want to wring all the juice out of it without spending lots of time or money and without sacrificing dependability. Sound familiar?
Thanks again to all and feel free to keep commenting.

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1983 M-B 240D-Gone too.
1976 M-B 300D-Departed.

"Good" is the worst enemy of "Great".

Do not remove the rack limiter. Adjusting it a few turns in is relatively safe and easy to do. The torque capsile can get you into trouble if you are not real careful. This can affect idle, like not returning to idle. The idle screw gets turned in, that is clockwise a small amount,if you do move the torque capsile. The outside idle adjustment will need to be turned anti clockwise before starting it. Do note all changes in case you need to go back. Here is something you should read if you have not already, before making pump adjustments.It is a very good summery of how the adjustments work.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1QkAv-HFaLqpK_5wKCln6DODkfw_DkjBHVYZXm0nUtEw/edit?hl=en_US&authkey=CJXuhs0I&pli=1

You should also have an egt gauge before any adjustments. I would say no more then one turn on the torque capsile and you will be over safe egt's, based on my experiance. I maxed out the rack limiter, perhaps go a bit more conservative on this.

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1977 240D turbo

Bosch M and Mw pump theory

here is the thread the above is in, there are pictures several replies down.

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1977 240D turbo