We are planning to drive from San Antonio to Yellowstone in June. My options are our 2009 Camry Hybrid or 1998 e300. I'd prefer not to take the 4 cylinder gasser through the Rockies, but am somewhat hesitant to drive the 13 y.o., 213K mi Benz that far.

Still have the original timing chain and injector nozzles. Should I proactively replace all for this trip? I have not changed the diff fluid- should I? Does anything else come to mind?

What I've replaced since buying car in Jan 2010:
Trans fluid was changed around 15K mi ago.
A/C compressor
MAF (cleared CEL and runs great)
hard plastic fuel lines at IP
water pump and radiator
brakes & brake fluid
steering rack
brakelight switch (trying to clear ABS/ESP/BAS lights)
Yaw sensor (cleared above lights but they came back a year later)

Current issues:
runs rough at idle/no load but otherwise smooth and plenty of power. If I have the headlights on or A/C then its pretty smooth again. I just changed the fuel filter and will change oil before the trip. I am also planning to replace the tires.

Thanks for any input
-Tom

Keep a spare fuel filter in the trunk.

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Jim

Tires in good condition?

You can check the slack on the timing chain to see if stretch dictates a change. From personal experience, I would change it out on spec at that mileage. At a minimum examine it very carefully, every link, as you rotate the engine with valve cover off.

Some might change the vacuum pump at that mileage.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Thanks for the input. What are the symptoms of the vacuum pump going out?

Is there a consensus on nozzle replacement interval? Do I need to have the injectors balanced if I change nozzles?

My rule of thumb on vacuum pump replacement is every 250k miles if a good oil change schedule has been maintained.

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Jim

From mid-97 the 606 got a rotary vacuum pump that isn't known to fail like the early 601/3 pumps.

Here's a write-up on checking the chain - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/300145-e300d-timing-chain-stretch.html With due respect to Scott, I wouldn't change it just because of miles. It's not a V8 chain that changes direction. If it's had a good oil change regimen, it should be fine for a long time.

You're about due for new brake fluid.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for the input. Yeah I came across that chain stretch thread tonight and was astounded by how many miles that engine had and how little stretch!

What are your thoughts about nozzles & pop testing?

The brake fluid was changed last summer

What about diff fluid?

Nozzles and pop testing as needed. What are the symptoms? Any significant drop in mpg not attributable to winterized fuel? If I had a hat, I'd eat it if your trip is interrupted because you didn't replace nozzles or have the injectors pop tested.

Yes on diff fluid.

Sixto
87 300D

x2 on the diff, it seems to be one of the most forgotten fluids, IMO a good synthetic 75w-90 like Mobil 1 or similar every 50-60k is a good idea becuase it's so easy to change. Overkill? Perhaps, but the cost and effort required make it very worthwhile IMO.

sixto, I am curious about the vac pump on my 95 om606. I am not worried about it now as the previous owner replaced at 100k along with the timing chain at the recommendation of the dealer (seems they got milked a little on that front), but I'm curious if you know if my vacuum pump is going to be an issue on my older 606? I only have 160k now, but I'm just thinking long-term.

If I know about your pump? I don't know about my pump! Does it have screw heads holding the brass front cover in place? If so, it's probably a later style vacuum pump. I've only heard of one late style pump coming apart and that was on Dave M/gsxr's engine during a dyno run. I wouldn't worry about it, though I worry about Dave

Sixto
87 300D

thanks I'll have to take a gander tomorrow during the daylight, I really feel pretty confident in my car seeing as how the dealer just threw new parts at it before I got it as "suggested maintenance," although a lot of it was probably not necessary in retrospect.

Oh man, gimme a break. You said e300, so I assume you meant e300d.
What if you have a problem with the Toyota? I mean, anything is possible. Get your MB to where it needs to be. If it has issues, fix them so you can enjoy the car whether you drive 20 miles or 2,000 miles.

Learn from a mistake that I made in my younger years..... I had a car that I bought with a big dent in the driver's door; someone had backed into the car door. I drove that car for 2 years with a dent in it, because I didn't want to spend the money to have it fixed. When I went to sell the car, nobody wanted to buy it, because it had a big dent in the door, saying the car had been "wrecked". I figured my choices were to spend the money to have it fixed and get a better price for it, or lower the price even more than the potential cost of the repair.

When I took the car to someone to fix it, I about fell over when he said he'd fix this huge dent for just $75. I again almost fell over when I got the car back. It was perfect. The guy did a great job of it.

I drove that car for 2 years with a dent in it, and only fixed it when I wanted to sell it. I learned that I would have been better off had I fixed it when I bought it, drove it for 2 years and enjoyed it more than having a dent in the door, and then when I sold it, it would have already been 100%. Bottom line, I fixed the car for someone else to enjoy, when the cost would have been the same, had I done it for myself first.

If it's time to change your timing chain, then change it. The timing chain could break on your way to your local grocery store 2 miles away from home. What would you do then? You'd have to pay someone to tow and fix it. Think ahead. Skip the tow, have it replaced when it's supposed to be, and it should last another 200,000 miles, enough to take your 2,000 mile trip.

You said the car runs rough, but if you have the headlights on or A/C then its pretty smooth again??? That's weird. Have it fixed. If cost is an issue, find a well seasoned general mechanic in a lesser-rent area, or better yet, a mobile mechanic with no shop to pay for.

The only issue right now is that the engine idles erratically at idle speeds when there is practically no load. If I put a significant load like the alternator (headlights on) or A/C compressor, then the stumble is practically non-existent. In searching various MB forums I came across similar sounding symptoms that were solved by replacing delivery valve seals and/or simply torquing the delivery valves to spec.

I've also read that some folks say that the injector nozzles are worn out around 200K mi, and others say that it is best practice to replace the timing chain at that interval.

In your bolded comments above are you saying that the 200K mi mark is the best practice and I should change the chain because I'm at that interval? If I check chain stretch and it looks good, am I still at high risk of the plastic guides wearing out and breaking?

I guess I'm thinking that if the nozzles should be replaced at this interval anyways, then I may as well enjoy their performance for this trip. I was considering doing the nozzle change myself using the info at dieselgiant, but I'm not clear if the injectors need to be balanced if I do change nozzles. If that's the case then I would pay a shop to replace nozzles and balance injectors, and while everything is opened up I would replace the DV seals.

thanks for your input

I would recommend having the nozzles changed and balanced by a shop. I pulled my injectors at around 185k and took them to a local respected shop, they were pretty gummed up, messing with the spay pattern. I changed the DV seals when I had it all apart as well and the seals were shot. I don't know if it will help your idle problem but its a maintenance item as far as I am concerned at 200k. Having said that I agree with sixto in that your car would not fail based on having your nozzles changed or not for your planned trip.

You could check the timing chain to see if it has stretched at all, your call. I would be surprised if it needed replacement on a 606 at 215k assuming it has been maintained. I have all the oil change recipients on my car starting from new from the previous owner.

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1999 E300 TD 190,000
1996 Passat TDI 225,000-sold
1996 E300 120,000-sold
1998 Jetta TDI 186,000 -sold
1983 Chev Suburban C20 6.2-sold