Hi all,

Just bought my first Mercedes (my last 2 cars have been mid 80's BMWs) - a 1983 240D (also my first diesel).

I took it to a local shop to be checked out and got a mixed review: the good news is that the compression is good and most of the major stuff seems to be in good shape, but the bad news is that a lot of the front end and steering components are in pretty bad shape. He gave me estimates for parts and labor on everything that could be replaced. I'd like to take it to another MB shop or find an independent mechanic in the area to get a second opinion. Any suggestions?

Here are his estimates (in descending order starting with what is in worst shape) - never having owned an MB, it's a little difficult to know if he's quoting a fair price for labor.

Both control arm ball joints (the driver's side is completely shot, the passenger side isn't much better):
parts: $60
labor: $450

2 tierods, $110; the front center link (just barely starting to crack), $78; schock absorber, $30; idle arm, $25
Labor for all: $135 (he says that he'd want to do all of this together with the ball joints because some of the labor is shared. So the labor quote is assuming I did this together with the ball joints). He also mentioned that not doing this will cause my tires to wear out pretty quickly.

Motor mounts (both are a bit worn but could probably last a while longer):
parts: $60
labor: $135

Brake master cylinder (has a very slow leak)
parts: $135
Fluid: $10
labor: $90

Thanks!

Did you look through - Oregon - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum ?

Sixto
87 300D

Run the parts list through the Buy Parts link at the top of the page. Note that even honest shops profit from parts. You can't directly compare the discount you get on parts to what a shop shows on your invoice.

I'm not familiar with the 123 but he might be exaggerating the condition of things or he's getting by with as little as possible. You have some soul searching to do to determine if this car is a keeper. If so, consider having the front end rebuilt if you're going to do any work at all. That means lower control arm bushings and ball joints, upper control arms and bushings (upper ball joints are part of the upper control arm) and both shocks. I wouldn't be too keen on a $30 shock for this car. I'd get a second opinion on the guide rod mounts. The steering is less sensitive to having things done in one shot cost-wise but there's the cost of an alignment whenever you change a component. Then there's the rear suspension. Typically you can get by with new subframe bushings and shocks.

I'd start by reviewing the service history if records are available.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks! I didn't realize that there are state-specific forums.

Yeah, the quote for parts seemed reasonable based on a cursory price comparison. What I was really wondering about was the labor estimates. Especially $450 for the ball joints. I had to replace them on my last car (84 528e) and the whole job cost $180. But then again I had a great BMW mechanic - unfortunately, he refuses to work on anything else. He even tried to talk me out of buying an MB!

Well then he's not that great of a mechanic

What's his hourly rate? There's nothing magical about replacing ball joints but you need some special tools and I expect even a pro will need a couple of hours per side. At that point it'll take minutes to replace the LCA bushings and guide rod mounts. The UCA can be replaced without taking as much apart.

BMWs, as wonderful as they can be to drive, don't do as well pushed this hard - Mercedes Benz Fascination - YouTube

Sixto
87 300D

Which shop gave you that quote?
Do you know they're shop rate? Based on the math and the hours each job should take, it looks like they're charging about $90 an hour, which is pretty high for the Portland area.
If you want to go to a certified shop, take it to MBI Motors. Last I heard they charge about $65. And they're great. They get pretty backed up though, and their pretty anti-biofuel. And, like many Mercedes (or other) shops, they assume that you don't know anything about your car and don't want to help you learn anything about it, and they won't give you any advice on how to save on parts or labor?

How many miles on the car?
Has it been in any accidents?
That's a lot of front end to have gone bad.

How does it drive above 65? Does it pull or swerve? Does it have lots of vibration?

The motor mounts are a good maintenance item, but if they're not that bad it's not urgent.

If the upper seals on the master cylinder are bad, you don't need to replace the whole thing, just the seals. Either way, that's the one part I wouldn't spend $130 on to buy new. It's not too hard to find a good used one for $20 (I have one in my garage).

I am currently working as a Mercedes diesel mechanic, though I'm pretty busy and might be moving soon.
I have a craigslist ad here
I might have time to do some of the work at least. I wouldn't do it quite as fast as the shop, but it should end up being half as much or less.

I do not want to discourage you but there is nothing more expensive than a cheap MBZ. I add all the numbers up and it comes to $1300 give or take. You may end up spending more money than what the car is worth. You need to do some wrenching yourself to keep the repair costs down. I would take a hard look at the rest of the car before spending that kind of money, even half of it if you can get a shady mechanic to do it for you.

Good luck.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

There is Lakeside, an independent shop, owner is Mark .
I-5 exit 291, there is a Burgerville at that exit, go down the hill to 72nd, turn right and a left on Benito. they are just past the RXR crossing on the left.

I have talked to him a few times when I have been to my Daughters in Tigard. He use to be a MB mechanic for the dealers, and then went on his own. always see classic older cars in the lot.

Don`t know what his labor rate is.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

At the top of the page is the resources tab. a ton of info in there

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

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Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

It has 290,000 . . . . No accidents as far as I or the last owner could tell but we don't have records for the car. There is actually surprisingly little vibration and pull on the car, though I haven't been above 65 too often.

I brought it to Omega Motors. They seemed really nice and the guy definitely knows his stuff, but yeah $90/hour did seem a little high (you were exactly right about the rate).