Ok so i have searched through the forums and I have found good answers, but this is my problem from the diagrams I have from the site and how the car is hooked up looks different. Here are some pics of my confusion.

Attached Thumbnails

         

The biggest problem is in picture 3 - the 5-way connector isn't hooked up to the vacuum pump. The length of garden hose in place of the crankcase vent line to the turbo air inlet snorkel is cute but probably not causing any problems

Sixto
87 300D

Oh wait, I see now. One branch of the 5-way connector looks like it goes down to the pump. My bad. Not used to seeing it that way.

Let's establish a baseline. Click on the first link in this post - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/105297-vacuum-diagrams.html and do what you can to hook up the vacuum lines that way. It looks like most of the work will be right at the 5-way connector. If you want to simplify things for now, close off the branches of the 5-way connector that go towards the passenger side of the car.

[edit] The diagram doesn't show the split in the line into the center of the round blue thing/transmission vacuum amplifier/BFS (blue flying saucer) on the driver side fender. Keep that split in place for now.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok and in pic 1 is that 3-way splitter suppose to be on the intake or on te alda

This is why I'm confused I'm using the same diagram u gave me the link to I'm just not sure if I should just re-do all the vacuum lines under the hood just like the diagram or is there some reason it is different on this car?

The splitter is supposed to be at the ALDA. The boost signal from the manifold goes through the overboost switchover valve (Y30) before continuing to the ALDA. At the ALDA there's a spur that continues to the coolant temperature switchover valve (Y31) before continuing to the transmission amplifier (123).

Sixto
87 300D

If there's a reason your car's vacuum system is rigged the way it is it's either a highly esoteric valid reason or an invalid reason. It works for everyone else the way it came from the factory.

Sixto
87 300D

I'm just wondering i should take it out and just redo it factory according to the diagram because it looks like I have lines in the wrong places. I have a hard shifting transmission that sounds like something is slamming in the rear with a metal clunk noise which I think may be the exhaust. Ten I have some other broken vacuum lines that lead into the cabin of the car. I'm thinking it's something with the ac.

How about take another set of pics, fully detailing all your current positions and then re-doing as most others are run ie as from the factory ?

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

The "broken vacuum lines that lead into the cabin of the car" are probably vents, they are supposed to be there. If the blue flying saucer ("BFS") is connected just as shown in the diagram, the transmission will not get the correct vacuum level and you will have hard shifts as you have described. Getting the BFS connected correctly is the most important job you can do. Second is getting the ALDA connected correctly so the IP knows to give the engine more fuel as the boost comes up.

Following up on Sixto's comment, you can disconnect the vacuum lines to the EGR stuff (5th picture) and remove it if you wish. Unless diesels are inspected in your state, removal of the EGR system is advised. The engine will thank you for it.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Lol just saw your comment about the garden hose. That was the PO. Thank everyone for all there help. (Off topic)Along with the egr removal. Is tere anything else I should remove? I read somewhere abou taking out the cat.

Lots of folks put out the cat at night.

While you're disabling EGR, diable ARV as well. It's the other line to the passenger side from the vacuum pump.

There is an oxidation catalyst along the exhaust system near the transmission. It can clog and restrict engine performance all the way to not allowing the engine to start. Some folks empty the cat, others replace it with plain pipe. Still others leave it alone if it's not causing problems.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok. Well I'm going to get on this vacuum line situation prob Thursday morning. This is my first time playing with a newer Mercedes diesel. For some reason when I turn the key and the preheat comes on for glow plugs my light goes out but I still hve buzzing and then when that goes off it will crank. Is that normal?

__________________
DIESELS
2004 Dodge Ram 2500
1991 Dodge Ram D250
1987 Mercedes 300D
1978 Mercedes 240D

Gas
2008 Dodge Charger SRT8 SuperBee
2008 Toyota Prius
2008 Toyota Rav4
1977 Pontiac Lemans Can Am

The buzz is reminding you to buckle your seat belt.

Sixto
87 300D

That's weird cause it will not let me start the car until it stops

__________________
DIESELS
2004 Dodge Ram 2500
1991 Dodge Ram D250
1987 Mercedes 300D
1978 Mercedes 240D

Gas
2008 Dodge Charger SRT8 SuperBee
2008 Toyota Prius
2008 Toyota Rav4
1977 Pontiac Lemans Can Am