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  #1  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:21 PM
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'95 E300D slow shut off

Howdy!

In the last week or so, my engine has started to take longer and longer to stop after I turn off the ignition. I would love to figure out what I need to clean/fix/replace before the motor decides it can run indefinitely without the key. Popping the hood and blocking the intake just seems like a lot of work that I don't want to do every time I use the car.

Can anyone point me to my likely points to inspect?

Thanks!
Tom Lynch

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Last edited by tlynch; 02-15-2012 at 07:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2012, 02:34 PM
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At what location in the intake are you blocking the flow of air? Maybe its a master switch issue and not fuel or air related.
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connerm View Post
At what location in the intake are you blocking the flow of air? Maybe its a master switch issue and not fuel or air related.
I have not yet had to resort to blocking airflow, and I would love to tackle this before I do.

It winds down by itself after a few seconds. But the few seconds are becoming more numerous. Today, I turned off the key, undid my seat belt, turned off the headlights and had the door open before the engine died.

Thanks!
Tom
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2012, 03:12 PM
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Follow the vacuum line from the shut-off actuator atop the injection pump to a point you can attach a Mityvac. See if the actuator holds at least 15"Hg indefinitely. Mine holds for days but even units that hold for 2-3 hours shut-off the engine pretty quickly. If that part of the system it vacuum tight, work back to the switch and vacuum source. I don't know if your car has a mechanical switch at the key or an electric switch in the engine bay. Likewise I don't know where the vacuum source is but most likely it's at the check valve along the line from the engine vacuum pump to the brake booster. Look for brown vacuum lines.

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  #5  
Old 02-10-2012, 04:03 PM
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Thanks!

Right about now I am wishing that the IP was not under the intake manifold.

Regards,
Tom
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2012, 04:09 PM
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This is quicker but risks breaking 12 year old vacuum lines and fittings - with the engine running, hook up the actuator directly to the vacuum source port. If the engine shuts off quickly, the actuator is acquitted. If the engine is slow to shut off, it's the actuator or a fitting in the makeshift connection.

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  #7  
Old 02-10-2012, 07:35 PM
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You ought to have a kill button on top of your fuel filter in case it doesn't get fixed right away.
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
You ought to have a kill button on top of your fuel filter in case it doesn't get fixed right away.
Funny I started this thread to day. When I got home, the engine wouldn't shut off.

The manual says I should be able to turn a shut off knob on top of the filter, but all I have is a falt top on the banjo bold. No knob, no screw, no button.

I think I'll try blocking the intake.

Thanks for the help!
Tom

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Last edited by tlynch; 02-10-2012 at 08:25 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2012, 08:56 PM
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It should look more like this -



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  #10  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:19 PM
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I wish I had one of those.

I finally got it shut off by clamping the supply hose from the tank using needle nose vise grips. Huzzah!

Any chance my problem is related to this broken vacuum fitting?



Thanks!
Tom
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:28 PM
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Every chance. Now you get to buy an entire brake booster hose because that check valve and nipple aren't available separately.

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87 300D
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:29 PM
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You are missing your manual shut-off valve which would normally sit on top of your main filter. Someone has replaced it with the bolt that featured in the later E300D's (1996 and up).

Your vacuum supply to the shut off circuit begins near the brake booster. Looking from the front over to your right (it's on my left over here) you will see the large solid plastic vacuum supply to the brake booster: coming off from that is a smaller brown tube; that is the supply to your key which in turn goes to the IP.

If you remove the brown tube and suck really hard with your mouth, you can infact shut it down but this only works if the rest of your circuit is good, which doesn't sound like it.

You only have to remove your crossover pipe to get to the pump not the entire manifold.
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:31 PM
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You know, in a pinch, you can plug the brake booster line nipple stump and tap off the vacuum line to the VCV or ACC to get the key to turn off the engine.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlynch View Post
I wish I had one of those.

I finally got it shut off by clamping the supply hose from the tank using needle nose vise grips. Huzzah!

Any chance my problem is related to this broken vacuum fitting?



Thanks!
Tom
OK, there is your problem right there. That is the beginning of your shut-off supply. If you suck on that really hard it will shut down. Or a mity vac if you have one.

Your brake pedal should feel hard to press now and will go soft again once you start the car.
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:49 PM
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Thanks, guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
You know, in a pinch, you can plug the brake booster line nipple stump and tap off the vacuum line to the VCV or ACC to get the key to turn off the engine.

Sixto
87 300D
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Quote:
If you suck on that really hard it will shut down. Or a mity vac if you have one.
Guess I run some plug experiments tomorrow. Maybe it is time to buy a Mity Vac, too.

Thanks!
Tom

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