So I noticed some very psychedelic patterns emanating from underneath my car yesterday after parking over wet pavement. Upon closer inspection, there is a clear viscous drip coming from the bottom lip of the bellhousing. At first glance, due to my extensive ignorance, I thought it was oil from the manual trans (although it looked pristinely clear). After reading this thread, which sounded similar to my sitch, I check my master cylinder which looks very low on fluid. What else can I check to insure that the slave cylinder is shot before I shell out the clams for a surely-pricey part? It's dark and I haven't had a chance to just look at it, but I assume it will be a mess? What else could be leaking brake fluid that is dripping down over the transmission?

If I can't the part for a few days is it safe to keep the brake fluid topped off and keep driving for a week or so?

If the brakes are leaking do not drive,, ! Safety issue,

Also, I have only the 114-115 CD-ROM manual, which conveniently has zero information on transmission/clutch repair. I assume swapping the yet-to-be-tried-and-conviceted slave cylinder will be a fairly straight forward swap-out? And then I will need to bleed the hydraulic system (never done that)? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Found this, sounds solid:

Originally Posted by Beagle

The method of pressure bleeding from the front brake caliper is most unsatisfactory for a number of reasons:
a) You are filling the clutch system with dirty fluid from the caliper.

b) As the front of the slave is inclined upwards on level ground (much worse on ramps) an air bubble is trapped at the front of the cyl. not purged when bleeding and can remain there giving a soft low pedal.

c) This whole procedure is a time consuming P.I.T.A. and was ill conceived in the first place.

There is a much easier and quicker way to R & R and bleed the slave cyl.
1) Remove clutch feed pipe from brake M/C and drain reservoir. Replace feed pipe and refill to max with new fluid.

2) Remove pipe from slave cyl. and cap the pipe end with one of the bleed nipple rubber cups.

3) Undo bolts and remove slave.

To Re-install: (N.B. The slave bleed screw is not loosened at ANY time.)
1) Thoroughly bench-bleed the slave leaving the push rod fully extended. Ensure all bubbles are out and fluid is filled level with the top of the pipe connection.

2) Remove the rubber cup and let at least an egg-cup full of fluid drain down to replace old fluid in clutch M/C. Then replace and tighten the pipe connection.

3) Bolt on the slave. As the piston is pushed back in as you bolt the slave back on any air in the pipe is pushed back through to the M/C and reservoir.

4) Top up the reservoir and you’re done!

Apologies for not perusing the forums before making a new thread...

I have replaced clutch slave cylinders before, but not on a MB,, if the clutch cylinder is leaking,, you should feel it in the pedal ( soft and or spongy } or when you try to shift gears,, the clutch may not fully disengage,,
I can not comment on the brake slave cylinder for MB just had my MB for 6 months and all I replaced was master cylinder, rotors , and rear park brake shoes ,, I would get the advice form some one who has done that specific job on the same model / year car as yours..and be very careful ,,,ps in the photo I have 2 jack stands also,,

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