As I wait for the weather to warm up, at which time I will change my tranny fluid and filter per MB spec for the first time, I am planning my attack. I have read with interest the various methods people use to turn the crankshaft to line up the torque converter drain plug:

1a. Wrench on crankshaft bolt, fan removed
1b. Wrench on crankshaft bolt, nothing removed
2. Bump starter endlessly, hoping to get lucky
3. Move torque converter with screwdriver

I have noted the various frustrations folks have had with at least some of these methods.

A couple of people suggested turning the crankshaft from the power steering pulley bolt. Clearly much more accessible....but I wonder if this would put undue strain on the pump.

But my main question: Do some of our cars must have a center bolt? My cars (91 and 92 300D) have three bolts on the pulley. I don't see how I'd be able to turn the pulley with a wrench.

Thanks.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

There is a 27mm bolt in the center of the crankshaft pully. This is the only bolt you want to use to turn the engine.

__________________
Jim

You can use the Harbor Freight tool to spin the pulley. The multirib belt will just slip, on the crank pulley, though. You'll already be under the car. Set a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt so you don't have to keep shifting between the top and bottom of the engine, and you can't spin the engine the wrong way if you have the ratchet set properly. Once the drain plug is at BDC, paint a mark on the crank pulley so it's easy to find next time.

Sixto
87 300D

To use the Power Steering Pully more easily you will need to check your Belt tension; loosen the Power Steering Pump and tighten the Belt; snug up the Power Steering Pump Bolts. When you are done you need to return your Belt to the tension you had before (why you checked the Belt tension to begin with).

Sounds like it would be easier to have someone view the Torque Converter while someone else cranks the Engine.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sadly the 602 has a spring belt tensioner. I suppose you can use a tire iron on the plastic! spring perch to induce more belt tension.

Sixto
87 300D

If I have a friend handy, I usually have them turn the power steering pulley while I'm underneath the car.
If the tension is to spec, you shouldn't need to tighten it

[Sixto]

"You'll already be under the car. Set a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt so you don't have to keep shifting between the top and bottom of the engine, and you can't spin the engine the wrong way if you have the ratchet set properly. Once the drain plug is at BDC, paint a mark on the crank pulley so it's easy to find next time."

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Get a long handle ratchet with a flex head (can tilt to different angles), and a deep 27mm socket. Works great.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Sounds like a great idea....thanks.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife