Can anyone help me identify some things here? Please see the attached picture.

I did a Valve adjustment this weekend and ended up snapping a brittle vacuum connector that splits off a large hose that comes off the pump to some smaller hoses that go to the shut off solenoid, inside the car, and to the object labeled "A" in the attached photo. That piece also has a cable that attaches to the throttle linkage (see "B"). I have a couple of questions:

1. What is that large black cylinder shaped part ("A")?
2. While you're at it, what is the part labeled ("C")?

By the way - this is all on the passenger side of the engine compartment, closes to the firewall. The angle of the picture is looking straight down, standing on the passenger side of the car.

I am going to replace the connector next weekend to get vacuum pressure flowing again, but for right now, when I started my car, I barely got any throttle response from the pedal. When I engaged the throttle by pushing on the linkage, it was excellent.

Could the part in the picture ("A") be what's causing this if it has no vacuum going to it? Or do I need to adjust the linkage somehow? I did remove the linkage to do the valve adjustment, but I put it all back on right as far as I can tell (I took several pictures during the process).

Any help is appreciated! Also, if anyone knows of a vacuum schematic for this car, that would be awesome! The guy who owned it before me cut the vacuum lines in multiple places and just plugged them up. I'm not sure how to reconnect everything now.

Thanks!!

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If you are able to find the vacuum end of part "A"
Plug it up w/ a golf tee or something similar and see what results you get.
I am not certain, but I think the part labeld "A" has to do with the cruise control, and the other part looks like the dryer for the A/C

Others will chime in if I am incorrect

More picts could be helpful too, esp of the linkage. The guys here can describe how to set your linkage to the correct specs, needs to be able to go to the full stop to get correct power. Never done it so I cant explain it
You'll get plenty of help, just have a bit of patience

BTW WELCOME your gonna love it here!

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A ...is Cruise Control vacuum canister.

B.... is Cruise Control cable to throttle linkage.

C.... is Air Conditioner receiver drier.

.BTW...the vac' ports coming off the fat Black hard plastic hose to the brake booster have sized bores. They are not just holes drilled into the junction.

It is because the vac' volume to the I/P ( injection pump ) vac' control capsule must not be supplied too much vac' volume or you will not get correct vac' pressure to the transmission modulator via the I/P control capsule...... I have found this port restriction to be around 30 to 45 thousandths.( Revised to 30 to 45 thou due to my old brain being sluggish this time of night....and as later noted...drill sizes 19 to 9.))

The other T port is for the door locks and ignition key to turn off the engine....Brown hose from fire wall into the ignition lock and back to I/P end capsule. IIRC yours has manual heater controls. If not, the the HVAC system also needs vac' supply. That will be via the Yellow vac hoses.

This may help......http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/105297-vacuum-diagrams.html



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Thanks for the reply! That does make a lot of sense that the part would have to do with cruise control since everything is controlled by vacuum and it has both electrical and vacuum lines going to it and connects to the throttle like that. I didn't even know the car had cruise control though. I will check tomorrow. If that's the case, it has to be the linkage or the way the pedal connects.

I've attached another pic, and here is more info on the pic:

The vacuum hose comes out of the side of that part labeled A and goes along the firewall, back to a "T" that is the first intersection off of the main hose from the vacuum line. I have attached another picture. The connector and end of the hose are taped where they broke off because I was hosing down the engine.

Also, notice how the cable from the mystery part "A" attaches to the throttle linkage? That's why I think it might have something to do with the lack of throttle response.

I can take better pictures of the linkage tomorrow, but as far as I can tell, they are exactly as they were before - and nothing adjusted because it's all pretty much seized up anyway and would take a lot of WD40 to get loose.

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WOW! Awesome info! You guys kick ass here! Thanks for the help!

The RED arrow seems to point to the cruise control cable hook up to the EGR rod...this is a no no, as the cruise cable will be pulling the EGR on if I am looking at your picture correctly.

EGR should only operate at part throttle and not at idle or WOT.

The WHITE arrow is the restricted port to the I/P .

IIRC the drill sizes for that restriction start off at drill size 19 up to size 9 drill.

I have attached a picture of the way the throttle linkage was connected before I took it apart. It seems to still be the same.

I went out there this morning to troubleshoot and realized that when I push the gas pedal down with the car off, there is no resistance until the very bottom and it does not move the throttle linkage until that point. Prior to doing the work, I had resistance all the way down and the linkage moved in accordance with how much pressure I put on the pedal. If the linkage on top of the valve cover is connected correctly - where else should I look to see what might have come loose?

Thanks for all your help!!

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kickdown switch - not even close? - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Scroll down.........


Also.....http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/289886-how-i-took-out-my-1981-w123-300d-euro-non-turbo-engine.html


...and......http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/99753-urgent-question-re-79-300td.html

I got it resolved! Thanks so much for all your help.

I pulled the accelerator pedal and used the lever below it and everything seemed to work as before. After inspecting the pedal, it looks as if the accelerator pedal bushing is broken.

I am ordering a new one now.

Also, after playing with the throttle linkage so much trying to fix it, I realized that I was never getting the proper response from the throttle. After looking around some more, I noticed that the nut was separated quite a bit from the throttle linkage ball socket on the link that comes up from below on the intake side of the engine. I popped the socket off of the ball and it spun freely down to the bolt. I tightened everything back up and snapped it back on and my throttle response is amazing now!

I'm able to engage the throttle much more now and the transmission shifts when it's supposed to. Previously, I would have to let off the gas completely and then put the pedal to the floor to get the transmission to shift.

I learn more about this car every day!! This forum is great!!

No EGR on a 115 I think.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Those little round ball linkages just pop off w/ a flat blade screw driver and you can reinstall them w/ a pair of vice grips they pop back on...grease the heck out of them so they glide smoothly, just do them one at a time so you dont forget where they go.

The tubing that comes out of your brake booster looks like it will need replacing, probably about $40. Check the buy parts tab up top. Phil is great and knows everything about these cars.

That is the first thing I broke on my car too. Just go easy..most of the plastic stuff is real brittle.

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Already greased them all up and got them put back together and adjusted this weekend. Also adjusted the linkage, which tightened up my throttle response quite a bit. I just bought the Brake Booster Vacuum Hose on Peach Parts, along with a bunch of other things I need.

Thanks for your help!