Any routine maintenance that should be done on the injection pump? I assume oil change to begin with, though I don't know the procedure nor the correct oil the replace it with...

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1969 220D - 4spd std
1973 220D - 4spd std

Do you have access to the W123 FSM? There are several mentions of your injector pump (the one for the OM615) in section 7.

You might be able to access it via www.startekinfo.com

Click on "MB Workshop Resources" then "Service Manual Library CD DVD"

There have been loads of problems with this site though - for a full appreciation see

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/310495-mercedes-startek-have-done-right-thing-help-you-do-right-thing.html

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

as to my knowledge,it is same oil engine uses so proper engine oil change
will do the trick. Besides that one, people do injection purge (diesel p.)
which cleans injectors and pump itself, filter change is a must, however...

some tweaks are also possible but not recommended for novice (like me )


cheers


.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Oh I forgot to mention there's loads of chat about your IP and its associated system in this thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/307688-om-616-injection-pump-timing.html

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

1969 220D - 4spd std
1973 220D - 4spd std
His earlier Fuel Injection Pumps are most likely not lubricated by Oil From the Engine.


The Oil inside of these pumps is much cleaner than the Engine Oil lubed ones because there is no contamination from the Engine.
However, there is a little bit of Fuel that leaks by the Elements and mixes with the Oil in the Fuel Injection Pump over time; more so if the Elements are worn.
Also the Oil can evaporate over time and use.

Some of the non-engine lubed Pumps have a drain plug to draining out the old Oil but most do not.
In one of the thread someone described using one of those big squeeze ball Turkey Basting Syringes with a skinny tube attached to it so you can go down through the Oil Fill Plug in the Fuel Injection Pump and suck out the old Oil.

When you Fill the Oil some of the IPs have either a bent Tube (sort of an overflow Tube) that the Oil will run out of when it is over filled or it has a Plug (not unlike a differential or standard Transmission Fill/Level Plug) and you fill it until Oil comes out of the plug hole.

For mor info:

DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'll assume that we have the same injection pump or at least very similar...

As mentioned above, you don't have an IP that's lubricated from the engine oiling system. It has to be drained and replaced on a somewhat regular basis.

I had difficulties draining the old oil and mixed fuel out of my W115. I removed the red "Oel" cap and attached an oddball arrangement of small diameter tubing and electrical tape to my hand operated fluid pump. Eventually I was able to work it to the bottom of the IP and pumped out several quarts of old oil and diesel fuel. I wouldn't be surprised if you also find some diesel in the mix.

There is an overflow tube on the engine side of the IP that prevents it from getting too full of fuel that, hopefully, will never see any use.

Once you have the old crud out (either my method or working your way to the drain plug), you'll need to top it off.

There's an overfill plug on driver's side of the IP near the primer pump.




It can be tough to get too, but it's not impossible. A boxed wrench and a moderate amount of contorting should do the trick.

Loosen this and add about 1/2 quart (but probably less) of your favorite engine oil. Stop adding when it begins overflowing and retighten.

Rinse and repeat every other oil change or more often if you wish.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

Wow. That little thing doesn't even look like it could hold that much fluid

Great posts, thank you for sharing your experience on a 115 bipolardave.

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1969 220D - 4spd std
1973 220D - 4spd std

No problem.

I could be overstating, but it was a bit more than I thought healthy. Again, you might not have anything but motor oil. YMMV.

The picture from above was just after I had my IP rebuilt. I checked the oil level a few days ago and no fuel leaked out so I think my fuel seepage problem has been corrected.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

You don't have to drain out the old oil at every change. Open the plug on the side, add about 6.5 fluid ounces (200 ml) at the top until clean oil comes out. Diesel fuel will be lighter than oil, so that will come out first.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/217522-help-what-oil-goes-into-injector-pump.html

Attached Files

injection pump oil_220D_W115.110_1968_1973_OM615.912.pdf (247.3 KB, 934 views)

Due to the Diesel Dilution issue where I worked we used to use 40Wt Oil.

As for how long between Oil changes you need to establish that for you particular Pump.
Pumps that are worn will have more Diesel Fuel in the Oil in a shorter time than one that is not.

You simply have to check it every month or 2 and see what happens. After you know you can come up with some sort of schedule.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the info gents, just suctioned off a good 50ml of diesel off the top (out of the "Oel" cap filler hole), removed the plug to the right of lift pump, and topped off with Delo 400 until oil ran clean out of plug. Made a huge mess in the process... I'm guessing 50ml of diesel means somewhat tired injection pump. I know that that "Oel" cap has not been removed for near two years, so hopefully that 50ml stretched out over two years isn't a sign of impending injection pump rebuild?

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1969 220D - 4spd std
1973 220D - 4spd std

Speaking from my limited experience, probably not. That doesn't seem like a huge amount to me. If a little diesel in your IP is the only issue that you're having, consider yourself blessed

Rebuilding the IP isn't something that folks ordinarily do. The only reason that I rebuilt mine was because of a small vacuum leak in the governor. While I had it out for that, I thought it prudent to take it to a Bosch shop and have them give it a once over if, for no other reason, preventative maintenance. ~$800.

My car now starts easier, smokes less, and is much smoother at idle. I haven't yet been able to test for better fuel economy, but hope to when we get nicer weather.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

What is the general consensus of the proper oil for the OM615 injector pump?
I've searched around and haven't specifically found any answers since a lot of folks are using a lot of different oils on cars across the spectrum of condition from new IPs to worn out IPs

I've seen folks using multigrade dinosaur, multigrade synthetic, monograde dino and monograde synthetic.

Add to that, does it need to be specifically diesel rated oil or can standard oil for a gasser be used?

Yesterday I sucked out a few ounces of what seemed like straight diesel and added gasser 30wt up to the overflow bolt hole till it dripped out.

So, can I keep using gasser oil? Should I replace it with diesel rated oil? Monograde or multigrade?

Thanks all,
Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Besides the oil change, the rack damper and fuel return spring are wear items.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment