'99 E300 Transmission Service - Help requested - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

raMBow · #1 03-02-2012, 06:34 PM

Mercifully the E300 has been going well the past few years and I have therefore paid it little attention. So much so, I am past due on a transmission fluid change and am unwilling to cut loose of the $450 requested by the dealer.

Background: Have about 130k on the clock probably 45k since the last change and I presume the previous owner did nothing as it was "lifetime"

Last time I changed it I just guessed and took it to the dealer and they ended up taking a quart out for $90 bucks, but I knew it was at the right level anyway. I have the dipstick but no thermal gun.

So, some questions.

* How hard is it to do this right?
* Last time I could never figure out how the bloody fluid would be removed from the torque converter - how do I accomplish this? Do I need a MightyVac?
* I thought I read somewhere that one could upgrade to a newer grade of MB fluid over the original - Fact or Fiction?
* I believe there are a couple of o-rings that prudent folks like we have here would change - what might those be?
* Do most fanatics now put some type of magnet in the bottom of the pan? Is there a MB # for it?
* What is a "reasonable" infrared temp scanner cost? And advise on where to get?
* Anything else I need to be looking at while I'm at it? Transmission mounts?
* General thoughts etc would be greatly appreciated, especially if I am missing something other then all the directions on how to do it.

Thanks!

mike0000 · #2 03-02-2012, 08:35 PM

I bought MB fluid and a filter on line, I dropped and draind the pan. I was surprised that only about 2.6 quarts drained out. I did not drain the torque converter (I believe there is a drain plug accesed by rotating engine to bring the drain bolt to the lowest position). I had 145K and the black cap (which ment PO never changed fluid) was still on the fill cover. I now have 151K and plan to change fluid again, including torque converter drain. I also bought the measuring dipstick. I just measure how much fluid is removed (by pouring drained fluid into a marked container) then add the same amount, take it for a drive to get the oil to temp. then measure by dipstick. I can't help about the orings, and I could be wrong but I think there was a magnet in the pan already. I like my rhino ramps to drive onto to give plenty of room to work. I also put down a tarp or cardboard, since I always seem to make a mess if I don't.

Mike

Can't Know · #3 03-02-2012, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raMBow

Mercifully the E300 has been going well the past few years and I have therefore paid it little attention. So much so, I am past due on a transmission fluid change and am unwilling to cut loose of the $450 requested by the dealer.

Background: Have about 130k on the clock probably 45k since the last change and I presume the previous owner did nothing as it was "lifetime"

Last time I changed it I just guessed and took it to the dealer and they ended up taking a quart out for $90 bucks, but I knew it was at the right level anyway. I have the dipstick but no thermal gun.

So, some questions.

I'll intersperse my answers in between your thoughtful questions if that's okay.

* How hard is it to do this right?
If you have a clean work environment and pay attention to what you're doing, not that bad.

* Last time I could never figure out how the bloody fluid would be removed from the torque converter - how do I accomplish this? Do I need a MightyVac?
No vacuum extractor will reach the torque converter. If you have a pre-facelift car, you have a drainplug on the torque converter. (Same gasket as for the AT pan.) Regardless, there is another technique to change it, which is mentioned below.

* I thought I read somewhere that one could upgrade to a newer grade of MB fluid over the original - Fact or Fiction?
Actually, the original 236.10 fluid is nearly impossible to find now. Dealers phased it out some time back and the secondary market seems to have done the same. Options include the 236.12 fluid (that would be my choice) which you can get at NAPA dealers. Lots of people have reported harsh shifting after going to the newest 236.14 fluid...although MB says it is backwards-compatible.

* I believe there are a couple of o-rings that prudent folks like we have here would change - what might those be?
I'm guessing you are talking about the adapter/spacer/pilot bushing on the electrical connector. I'm not sure anyone has ever found the correct sizes generically, however the OE design of the connector is the issue, not the O-rings. You can get a new one from a dodge dealer on Amazon for a pretty good price (they used the 722.6xx transmission for a few years during the ill-fated merger) or of course any dodge or MB dealer. It comes with the O-rings, is easy to change and less messy once you've drained the pan (just pay attention to the pins and don't damage them) and if it hasn't been changed before, it needs to be before it starts leaking.

* Do most fanatics now put some type of magnet in the bottom of the pan? Is there a MB # for it?
Fanatics would be the correct word. The wear items in the 722.6xx transmission aren't ferrous, so the magnet doesn't really do anything. If you want one, they can be purchased online from various sources, or pm a member at benzworld, ohlord.

* What is a "reasonable" infrared temp scanner cost? And advise on where to get?
How much do you want to spend?

Harbor Freight has some for under $30 that are fine. The issue is you have to be able to point it at the pan without picking up the heat from the exhaust pipe. One solution is to raise and safely support one side of the car enough to reach under and hit the pan, when it says 80C, then drop it so it's level and check the fluid.

* Anything else I need to be looking at while I'm at it? Transmission mounts?
The pilot bushing noted above. With your year I would also be sorely tempted to replace the pressure regulator springs (under plates in the side of the valve body). They're inexpensive and in the first few years of the 722.6xx lesser-quality ones were used. If they break after you've done your work, you'll be dropping the pan again and losing all that expensive fluid.
No real point in address the T mount unless it's worn out. Avoid the URO brand if you decide to change it. But you're not saving any work by ignoring it on this job, and in fact are adding to your work since you have to have the pan on the AT to change the mount (that's how you support the AT when changing the mount).
Be sure you inspect the flex disc since you'll be right there. Might as well check the rear one, too, and see how much play you have in the driveshafts, it's a rudimentary test for the carrier bearing assembly.

* General thoughts etc would be greatly appreciated, especially if I am missing something other then all the directions on how to do it.
An excellent primer is the 722.6xx FAQ thread in the W210 section stickies at Benzworld. Compiled by a former mod it links to various informational threads, mostly there, but all useful. It also contains a link to a technique you can use to flush the rest of your fluid in case you *don't* have a drain plug in the TC. And if you have to use any of the newer fluids, I'd definitely flush it all out, there are reports of it not blending well.

Hope that helps.

Read through all that and if you still have questions post back. It's not rocket science, but it does require attention to detail.

raMBow · #4 03-02-2012, 10:14 PM

Thanks, Can't Know... you're making my brain hurt as I have not been working on it since the o-rings.

* Oh if I can do the o-rings and delivery valve seals I should be able to screw up the courage to crack it back open and actually finish it myself this time and not have the dealer check the level for me.

* I'll check the links noted and read and read those. Might have additional questions later. Swore I could not see the drain in the torque converter last time, but mine is pre-face lift I think if you actually mean the face lowering of the frontend clip? Not sure what you refer to there, sorry.

* NAPA fluid sounds cheaper too. Had not heard of the harsh shifting with the newer fluid, but have not completed all my reading assignments.

* Sounds like I need more research to find the right part on the adapter/spacer/pilot bushing as you call it.... and no it's not been changed, but now would be the time.

* Harbor Freight - were you reading my mind

. Rarely do I stoop to that level, but if it is reasonably accurate, I will not be abusing or wearing it out and would likely only use every few years on this project. (Yes I had looked at the $30 beast and was considering it)

* Not sure of which you speak in regards to... pressure regulator springs (under plates in the side of the valve body) My car has a build date of 11/98 IIRC. Would it have this issue? Something like this? Mercedes 722.6 solenoid pressure regulator valve spring Sonnax 68942-01

* Had not noted anything wrong with the flex disk or mounts last time, but will take a gander. Hopefully I will recognize something horrible if I see it.

Thanks, looks like I need to start working on my shopping list.

sokoloff · #5 03-03-2012, 11:51 AM

Here's a write up I picked up on the transmission service:

> Finally got around to doing the transmission service on our new-to-us 1999
> E300D yesterday and thought that I would write it up for the list and maybe> the FAQs page.
>
> Before I begin, note that the car in question has 161,000 miles on it (159K
> when purchased), and was used 95% or more of the time for a 200+ mile round
> trip commute every day.. When the owner and I were discussing the car prior> to purchase, he mistakenly thought that the transmission had been serviced.
> I don't think (I'm near certain) that it has ever been serviced. Additional
> evidence supporting this belief is that there is a "locking pin" on the
> cover for the dipstick that is originally black but the replacements are a
> medium brown. Mine on the car was black, so I'm assuming that it still had
> the original fluid fill.
>
> Here are the parts for the fluid/filter change. Note that these *may* be
> different for 5 speeds other than the E300D and note that these parts were
> purchased at Park Place in D/FW (Bedford location) so the "list prices" for
> you in another area may be different:
>
> 1. Fluid: 001-989-21-03-10, list $10.00 per liter
> 2. Dipstick: 140-589-15-21-00, list $44.73 (I think that this number
> was inflated because the rest of the list prices match the 5/2003 price list
> that was posted on-list)
> 3. Lock pin: 140-991-00-55, list 0.85
> 4. Torque converter drain plug washer: 007603-010100, list 0.40
> 5. Torque converte drain plug: 000000-000648, list $2.00
> 6. Magnet to insert in bottom of pan: 220-171-00-98, list $2.50
> 7. Filter: 140-277-00-95, list $8.50
> 8. Pan Gasket: 140-271-00-80, list $5.50
> 9. Pan bolts: 140-990-46-01, list 0.90
> 10. Pan bolt stops: 140-271-00-68, list $1.40
>
> Tools needed:
>
> 1. 8 mm 1/4 drive socket on 6" extension for sound encapsulation panel
> removal (there are 3 panels on this car)
> 2. TORX male socket T30 for pan bolts
> 3. Allen socket 5 mm for torque converter drain bolt
> 4. Large pan that will hold 9 quarts or more of fluid [Note that I use a
> large gray restaurant "busing tray" so that I can see the fluid's visual
> condition]
> 5. Two equivalent clear plastic containers for fluid (more on this in the
> instructions). [I used the square "Deli Cat" catfood containers from Sam's]
> 6. Cutting pliers for plastic locking pin removal
> 7. Small throat funnel
>
> Here were the steps that I took to change the fluid and filter:
>
> 1. Cut the locking pin from the dipstick cover, push it out the bottom with
> a screwdriver (or pull it out with pliers from the bottom) and remove the
> cover to insure that fluid could be added after draining the old fluid.
> 2. Rotate torque converter until Allen-headed drain plug is centered in
> opening. [Note that I "walk" the torque converter around with a long
> screwdriver. There are little tangs around the perimeter of the torque
> converter that provide "grab handles" to do this.]
> 3. Drain torque converter. [Note that the converter has much more fluid than
> the pan and it pulses out and will spray outside the receiving pan if you do
> not wathc closely
> 4. Drain pan (5mm drain plug here).
> 5. Remove pan.
> 6. Remove filter (note that the filter is only held in by O-ring tension.
> Also, note that the "top" of the filter has a shark fin that fits into a
> slot in the valve body.
> 7. Let drain for a couple of hours.
> 8. Check pan closely for deposits, noting their size and location. Wash out
> pan with solvent and dry thoroughly.
> 9. Reinstall torque converter drain plug.
> 10. Remove fluid residual from torque converter and bellhousing area.
> 11. Wipe pan gasket mating surface on transmission.
> 12. Install pan gasket on pan.
> 13. Install pan on transmission.
> 14. Clean outside of transmission pan of any residual oil.
> 15. Clean any desired surfaces underneath the car while panels are off.
> 16. Leave car on stands for leak test.
> 17. Drain old fluid into clear container.
> 18. Fill matching container with new fluid up to same level, accounting for
> any leakage of draining old fluid onto floor.
> 19. Fill transmission with about 2/3 of new fluid.
> 20. Bump starter a few times without starting to ensure that there is
> nothing obstructing engine, etc., etc.
> 21. Start car.
> 22. With foot on the brake, run the shifter through each gear a few times.
> 23. Turn off car and repeat 21 & 22.
> 22. Check for leaks.
> 23. Remove car from stands.
> 24. Test drive.
> 25. Check fluid with "fluid level dipstick" (this is its only use and it
> does not stay in the dipstick tube after checking the level) after car is
> sufficiently warmed up [at least 25 miles of driving].
>
> Observations:
>
> 1. The new fluid is a bright cherry red, even brighter than Dextron II.
> 2. The old fluid (at least mine) was a medium/dark color, with a greenish
> tint.
> 3. I have heard the stories that are coming in about the sealed
> transmissions and I anticipated some potential significant deposits of
> clutch material in my pan. There were none. The only material that I found
> was a 1/8" chip, about the thickness of a sheet of paper and about 4 small
> areas (1/4") of "deposits" on the pan which can best be described as
> minutely fine graphite-looking. All of these deposits added together would
> not equal the volume of your little fingernail. I attribute the lack of
> significant deposits in this car, at this mileage, to its duty cycle:
> generally 1.5 - 2 hours driving per trip. I really think that the "mileage
> equivalency" of this 160K car to one with a more "normal" duty cycle is
> probably around 40K or so.
> 4. The transmission *appears* to shift even more smoothly, but that is
> probably my need for a reward for doing the service. The 5 speed
> transmission is a very smooth transmission anyway.
> 5. The valve body for this transmission is *big.* Indeed, it is almost the
> size of the pan.
> 6. This transmission service is little different from any other
> transmission service and is, indeed, easier than prior MB transmissions
> because you don't have two oily screws to take out to remove the filter.
> The removal of the locking pin is probably a bit unnerving.

raMBow · #6 03-30-2012, 06:32 PM

Will this ATF fluid work for th '99 E300?

MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF - Mercedes NAG-1.

Or is this the really new stuff with poor shifting results?

Valvoline.com > Products > MaxLife > Automatic Transmission Fluid MaxLife > MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF

TMAllison · #7 03-30-2012, 09:38 PM

Note: i didn't read this thread.

I'd stay with the MB fluid for the 722.6 or the new 6 spd. I've used both.

Get the factory dip stick tool or make a measuring stick and fill hot to the top 80C mark. Probably somewhere between 7 to 8 liters. I think mine has averaged 7.25L.

raMBow · #8 03-31-2012, 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Note: i didn't read this thread.

I'd stay with the MB fluid for the 722.6 or the new 6 spd. I've used both.

Get the factory dip stick tool or make a measuring stick and fill hot to the top 80C mark. Probably somewhere between 7 to 8 liters. I think mine has averaged 7.25L.

Yeah, I know... Wishful thinking on saving some $$$, but risk/reward = poor risk management.

I've got the factory non-dip stick tool and need to get a instant read temp. Otherwise awaiting parts.

Oh, and the pressure regulator spring 140 993 58 01, my dealer acts like it does not exist anymore, but was going to order the part.

Actually looking forward to the project.