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#1
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Uh-oh. Key not working to turn car off
My car is an overachiever. It rebelled when I only drove it 1 mile today.
I turned the key off, and the car keeps running. This is not a Shut Off Valve problem, though I did have to use that to shut the car off. This is a key problem. With the Shut Off Valve, the car would "sort of keep running", and I've already replaced that a few years ago. This is where I turn the key off, and the car continues to run perfectly. Soooo, I'm guessing this is a key tumbler problem, and if so, what to do about it? My key comes out, and it stops in the normal position in the tumbler. The only other thing I can think of, is that in the proper "Off" position, the car is not getting the signal to knock it off! 1991 300d, 169k |
#2
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It may not be the tumbler, It might be the tongue or tang that the timbler fits into. It could be worn to the point the tumbler doesnt activate it. just guessing.
I was looking at an old one I have with the tumbler out. maybe remove the tumbler and see what it looks like down in the recess. try using a flat blade screwdriver to see if it will turn the engine off. should be able to start and stop the engine with the screwdriver. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#3
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If the key is in the lock position (all the way counter-clockwise) and it keeps running, you have a vacuum problem, and NOT a key/tumbler/lock problem.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#4
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Did you replace the Shutoff Valve on the Fuel Injection Pump or the Shutoff Valve that is mounted on the Steering Colum lock?
As ROLLGUY said there is always a chance there is a vacuum leak somewhere. All of the Plastic Vacuum Tubings are connected with 25+ year old Rubber Hose. When I did my first Oil Change I did not realize I leaned on the Main Vacuum Line and cracked off one of the Platic Nipples. My Engine also would not sutoff with the Key when that happen. Troubleshoot the simple stuff first.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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Vac problem??!
That might be it. I changed a fuel pre-filter the other day, and accidentally moved some of those wires that run in that general area. I'll take a look at those tomorrow.
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#6
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He said it was not a shut off valve problem, and it was replaced a while back.
Also didn`t mention any other Vacuum related problems like door lock functions. Vac could be applied to the shut off valve to see if it works, or suck on it. There was a thread a month or so back where the was the problem I mentioned above. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#7
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Door locks work
I checked the vac lines and they SEEM to be all plugged in, but it's hard to really find that out, since they're nearly unmovable, with the hard plastic casing, bundling maybe 5 of them together. Might have to take it to a shop.
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#8
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Don't bother taking to any shop. Save yourself some money, and go buy a Mightyvac (or other brand vacuum tester). There are plenty of knowledgeable folks around here that can help you find the leak. Vac system problems are common with these cars, and are very easy to trace and fix with the help of a vacuum tester. No MB owner should be without a Mightyvac!
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#9
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Vacuum for the door locks on your car is produced from a pump under the rear seat. It is not connected to the vacuum pump on the front of the motor.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#10
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I fixed the same problem! In my case it was the vacuum swwitch that attaches to key assembly. It was a pain to get that to where I could work on it. You should be able to verify this using the Might Vac. There is a brown vacuum tube going in and out of the firewall. The supply comes off the main supply to the brake booster right before it goes through the firewall. Don't try to remove the vacuum tube from the brake booster or you are going to have to replace the brake booster supply. The shut off vacuum gets its supply from the brake booster line. It is obvious where it branches off. Don't try to remove the tube!
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My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory |
#11
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Make sure the brown line is hooked to the shut off valve. If it's not hook it up. If it is, unhook it and replace it with a length of vacuum hose. Start the engine. Suck on the hose. If it shuts off with 3 or 4 strong sucks, the shut off valve is ok and there's a vacuum problem somewhere between the source and the shut off valve.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#12
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That is a very simple circuit though. The circuit is Brake booster, to vacuum switch in the ignition to shut off valve. No other elements are on this circuit.
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My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory |
#13
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Had same thing happen to my 86 300sdl this week when replacing a rubber 4 way connector i apparently leaned on the line running to ignition. Luckily found it within minutes but can imagine how frustrating it could have been. Id definitely say start with the vacuum lines as almost all mine snapped to the touch
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#14
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Problem found
I had the Mity Vac, rented one actually, from Auto Zone.
The Shut Off Valve, I just replaced that 4 years ago, so that was fine. Checked all the vac lines, they were all in tight. Finally found the culprit. It was a hose on the driver's side, about 2 feet back from the front of the car, under some gizmo. The hose was dryrotted really bad. Replaced that plus a few others, and problem is solved. |
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