Does anyone know where I can find a used "Pressure Converter Solenoid" for a 98 E300D. This is the vacuum solenoid that controls the wastegate on the turbo. Its mounted on the lower side of the air cleaner box. I believe this car has at least 2 of these solenoids, one for the wastegate and an exact duplicate for actuating the EGR valve, and perhaps another controlling the transmission.

Phil has new ones but they are $132 ea.and stealership is even worse. I'm wondering if a 320E of same vintage uses the same solenoids for EGR and transmission.

Part # is: 000 545 04 27.

I also need a wastegate actuator assembly including the rod for a KKK turbo for the same car. Mine no longer holds a tight vacuum. Don't need the entire turbo as mine is still good but the actuator can is rusting thru. Phil says no part # for just the actuator since it only comes with the turbo. Must be some sort of a substitute somewhere since it just bolts on to the turbo.

Need to take a cross country trip soon and any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would do a couple things:

Do the EGR eliminator circuit and then swap the transducers (pressure converter solenoid), EGR to wastegate.

You can find the EGR circuit with a search for the thread.

For the wastegate, I would simply use some JB weld to seal the holes or possibly fiberglass if the holes are larger.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Great idea Kar Tek. I have been reading up on the EGR eliminator but was thinking about waiting until I got this wastegate thing resolved. Your idea would take care of both issues. Sometimes I just can't see the forest for the trees.

I did try a switch of the two solenoids when analyzing my issue and came to this conclusion: I currently have gotten a 0243 code when "On the Pipe" so to speak or climbing a long grade. Turbocharger circuit A. code. If I stay out of the boost everything works fine with no codes.

When I switched solenoids the car wouldn't start and I got a P0100 code. MAF circuit. So I concluded that the bad wastegate solenoid was triggering a EGR circuit issue and I switched them back and everything is OPS Normal till I get on it.

Please validate my thinking about the bad wastegate solenoid. If you agree then I'll proceed on with the EGR elimination. The trip from WV to CO is paramount and mandatory and I could make it without any changes from current condition but would be in limp mode whenever it threw a code till I stopped to erase the code. I just don't want to do anything to complicate things. The car is new to me, 1 week, and has 178K.

I haven't removed the wastegate can but since its so rusty I like your idea of JB Weld. I can't rule out a torn diaphram. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and guidance.

"On the pipe", that's a 2 stroke thing!

Sounds like proper thinking when the problem follows the part that's switched. I'm surprised though, that it won't even start with them switched. I've switched qhite a few things around on my car but it's usually when it's running just to find out what kind of code it will trigger.

Just for giggles, do a test across the coil terminals of both solenoids, mainly to satisfy my curiosity. Also, if the coil is open or intermittent, you will want to do the EGR eliminator circuit that includes all 3 components to simulate the solenoid coil load and leave the solenoid unplugged.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Its raining sideways right now and I have no garage so the coil check will come when the storm lets up. Sorry about the "On the Pipe", comment. I guess it reveals my age. (70ish). My first speed merchant vehicle was a Suzuki X6 Hustler. 6 speeds of blue smokin rocket. Muscle cars of the day were no match.

Now I'm still burnin oil just in a different fashion with the E300.

I'll get back to you on the coils and see if I can round up the EGR parts to solder in.

I hear you on the 2 stroke thing. I have a 2 stroke 4 wheeler and it's 350cc of 6 speed smokin' fun.

It's kind of funny but the 300 actually has a kind of "on the pipe" feel when accelerating. Actually kind of annoying sometimes!

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

I've got a used solenoid I can send you. PM your address and I'll drop it in the mail. I replaced it when I was getting the same codes, but it turned out to be a related problem just not a problem with the solenoid. So, I have the new solenoid installed and a used one looking to be useful again.

Finally got to follow KarTek's good advice and ohm'd the pins in the solenoids just for reference. 15.4ohms on the wastegate solenoid, 15.9ohms on the EGR. Appears it perhaps isn't bad.

Additional info. Both solenoids hold full vacuum on their vent, (bottom) port, both are open when disconnected and off the car on their top ports.

I can only reach 10in. of vacuum on the wastegate diaphragm and that bleeds out almost immediately.

Haven't switched them again for further reverse testing since I started this thread but when I first switched I couldn't get the car to start, (it woud sputter but never catch while turning over), and I then got a P1000 code, (MAF system).

Since both solenoids seem to be equal electrically how do you explain the no start when switching?

I'm going to try to remove the wastegate now. Corroded really badly. Been soaking bolts with WD40 spray. Wish me luck.

Todieselornot: What was your similar turbo issue and its final resolution?

Just to make sure I have it clear are you testing the diaphragm with the hose straight from the vacuum pump to the wastegate connection?

I just had one in that was throwing the wastegate solenoid A code and it was a plugged cat.

__________________
Jim

Well I was moving the air cleaner box out of the way so that I could get more room to work on removing the rusty wastegate actuator. I realized very quickly that I was not going to be able to remove it without getting under the car so I continued to spray the rusted mounting bolts from the topside to ease the inevitable nightmare of working on those rusty bolts.

I removed the vacuum line going into the wastegate diaphragm and the inlet nipple was very rusty, and when I looked at the hose, the rust from the diaphragm had expanded the hose to the point where it was cracked.

I hooked up my vacuum tester on the cleaned up nipple and pulled a solid 27" and it held.

So being curious and lazy I put things back together with a fresh hose from the vacuum solenoid to the vacuum canister wastgate actuator and took her for a test drive.

Really got on it and let off abrubtly so as to go to max overboost and really test the wastegate and actuator.

PROBLEM FIXED! No codes.

Moral of the story, as my Grandfather always told me as a young man, "Beware of Rusy Nipples"!

good job

__________________
Jim

It looks like you've fixed your problem, but to answer your question as to my issue it was due to road debris knocking a hole in my intercooler.