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#1
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Oil change -- did ft-lb instead of newton meters ...
So I was in a hurry, looking at Ft-lb instead of n-m, and was probably at 50nm (instead of 40nm) on drain plug when I realized my mistake. Filter nuts probably reached 30nm (instead of 20nm) None of them got stripped, and I loosened/re-tightened the oil filter nuts to proper torque. I didnt touch the drain plug, but am considering replacing the copper washer with the 'non-copper' one from the filter box and torquing it properly..? I'm worried if it will fail somehow when heated up. Advice?? Insults??
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#2
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Have a beer and forget about it until the next oil change.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#3
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Over tightened an oil drain plug??? Could have gone to the quick lube & not gotten dirty if you were going to do that!!!
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#4
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I know, right? fck my life! and english units!
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#5
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THIS.
I don't use a torque wrench for my oil changes. Wheel installation yes, but not oil drain plugs and filter housing nuts. When I was working on customers' cars and did something fancy like a 911, then I'd get the torque wrench out, but it was probably overkill even then.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#6
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You don't say whether it's a 603A (aluminum pan) or 617(A) (steel pan), so I can't comment on that bolt/"nut" interface. For a Cadmium plated (probably what our older bolts are, rather than newer enviro/"green" zinc), 4.8 grade (cheezy), 12 mm bolt torqued to 50 Nm, the resultant load corresponds to a 90% proof strength torque; right at the limit for what you would aim for as a designer. If it's 4.8, 14 mm, 50 Nm, then it's about 55%. 4.8, 16 mm, 50 Nm, 37%.
I can also tell you that, on the filter housing, 30 Nm (/ 1.356 ~= 22.1 ft-lb), on a Cadmium plated (probably what our older bolts are, rather than newer enviro/"green" zinc), 8.8 grade, 8 mm bolt corresponds to a 90% proof strength torque; right at the limit for what you would aim for as a designer. Buuuut, the flange nuts on the housing would have a much greater frictional torque (due to greater action radius of that mating friction) than these engineering formulae are set up to calculate, so correspondingly less load would be applied to the fastener shank. The "not copper" washer is probably dead-soft, commercially-pure aluminum, which has similar sealing/crush properties.
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James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
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