Not sure on this, but here it is my 83 240 diesel 4 cyl,I want to know from the front to back of engine working # 1 cyl exhaust - intake, camshaft lobe in correct position check clearance on these two? This is the part I am not sure of for the next # 2 cyl do you turn the engine over 180 degrees ? 0r 360 degrees for each cyl until you get to the last one? Or once you do the first cyl exhaust and intake do you go right across and do all the rest without turning the motor? I have the Haynes manual but the way I read it I am still not sure un til I get there. Thanks for any replies.

Perhaps I am off base, but the rule I follow is to check the valve clearance when the cam is not pushing on the rocker for that valve. I start with whatever valves are in that position when I remove the valve cover and only turn the engine enough to get all the valves in that position at some time. If you decide to work with the first cylinder first (at tdc)and then move on to put each cylinder at tdc, it seems as though you have to turn the engine too much.

I agree with Kerry. You can adjust the valves in any sequence that's convenient. Just make sure that the valve you are adjusting have the cam lobe up and away from the rocker, and make sure that you understand if it is an exhaust valve or intake valve (different clearances).

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1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

So if I understand this you can turn motor to TDC # 1 cyl and just adust the valves across without turning the motor at any other position? If this is correct it makes it a little faster to do, not that speed is important here I just want to to it right. I have adusted the valves on my vw s years ago. And on our Isuzu Trooper I put another head gasket on, these also requires valve adj as regular maintaince. Any more replies to this?

240-Diesel

This is how I do it in my 240D. I first draw a rectangular box on a paper with all the valves showing their position relative to the way the engine is sitting, that way I know I won't miss any of the eight valves. Then I take off the valve cover and start with the valve that has the lobe on the camshaft furthest away from the lifter and start with that one. You may find that you may have to bump the engine to get the lobe pointed away from the lifter as much as possible. You dont' have to be perfect in pointing the lobe away just as long as the lifter isn't actuated by the lobe. I then check the clearance and adjust, if necessary, that valve. I then make a check mark on my picture that I drew on that particular valve has already been adjusted so I won't miss any of them.

I then go on to another valve that has a lobe that is furthest away from the lifter; like I said before, you may need to bump the engine to get the lobe furthest away from the lifter. The only thing that you have to keep straight is whether you are adjusting an exhaust valve or intake valve because the clearances are different between the two.

The method in doing it this way doesn't mean you have to go in sequential order, only that the lobes are furthest away from the lifter. All along this process when you go to the next lifter, you will need to bump the engine which you eventually adjust all valves. And you keep track of them by marking your picture with a check mark.

And that's how I do it....hope this helps.

Herb

'82 240D
'87 300SDL

No...we are not being clear. You must rotate the engine so that each valve that you adjust has the cam lobe away from the rocker. The cam is round on one side and football shaped on the other. You have to do the adjustment of clearance on the round part of the cam and the rocker. The point that Kerry and I were trying to make is that you do not have to start with #1 cylinder and systematically go through the rest. You can start with whichever valve happens to be in the "adjust" position and rotate the engine as needed to do all the rest of the valves. But you will not be able to adjust all valves with out rotating the engine.

Sorry for the confusion.

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1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

I do believe that Franklyspeaking and I adjust valves the same way. But yes, as long as the lobe on the camshaft is furthest away from the lifter and not putting pressure on the lifter is the one to check and adjust, then go on to another valve....and keep track of which ones you've adjusted with the picture you draw or you will lose track.

Herb

'82 240D
'87 300SDL

As a slightly unrelated questions, should we always assume that the feeler gauges we use are correct? I've read somewhere that from brand to brand they can be different. Which brands do you use and trust? Would you trust a Sears set? Thanks

Alex

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1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

Alex,

The feeler guages I have are Sears brand for setting valve clearances. In fact all my tools are Sears....I think they sell good quality tools. But you are right, there are some cheap tools that are not what they appear to be. For example, years ago, I bought a cheap set of socket wrenches from Kmart or somewhere. I found out that the sizes stamped on the sockets were "close" but not exact and fitted loosely on the head of the bolt I was trying to remove on a car I used to have. I bought a replacement set of wrenches from Sears. I've never had that problem since. I got rid of those cheap sockets and threw them away.

Herb

'82 240D
'87 300SDL

Feeler guages are good, but you could also use a dial indicator for many jobs.. so if you have both you can test one with the other....

Thanks to all who replied, I also have been using sears tools for the past 26 yrs.I will be adj the valves soon, as I have changed out all the fluids in the car and will be checking all other items vacum related etc.I did notice the trans shifts smoother with the new fluid. Again thanks for the replies.

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A couple of Ford pickups F 150,250, 350 missed.
1983 240 D 256,000 miles ,auto, ac.