Planning to replace both rear calipers on my SDL...

[MercFan]

THis is for my '87 300SDL - I'm going to order both of the rear calipers (they both get stuck and look at the end of their life). I also plan on replacing both brake rubber hoses (from hard lines to each caliper) - is changing these hoses a difficult thing? I've read some posts on here that recommend a specialized tool do hold the fitting...

I also plan on flushing out the old fluid brake fluid as part of this job. My SDL has the Anti Locking brakes module up front (driver's side front in engine compartment) - is there anything special I need to do when flushing out old brake fluid? My plan is to do the flushing in the following sequence:
1) evacuate the reservoir fluid (or most of it),
2) flush rear Passanger,
3) flush rear Driver,
4) flush front Passenger
5) flusy front Driver

Hopefully no major surprises when doing this...

Thx,
James

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by MercFan

I also plan on replacing both brake rubber hoses (from hard lines to each caliper) - is changing these hoses a difficult thing? I've read some posts on here that recommend a specialized tool do hold the fitting...

Just changed the RR today on the SE. It all depends on the condition of the fitting. You'll need an 11mm open end wrench on the top flare nut. This is the dangerous one. If the nut is corroded to the brake line, you'll twist the brake line when you try to remove it. If it is corroded to the brake hose, you'll round off the nut trying to remove it.

The best and safest solution is to find an 11 mm flare nut wrench rather than the open end and use a bunch of Kroil (in advance of the work).

Also, it's preferable to "snap" that nut rather than slowly adding torque and hoping that it'll break loose. It's dangerous if you fail, but the alternative is worse.

If things start to get ugly, find a set of vice grips for the nut and consider adding some heat to break the bond in the threads.

[qwerty]

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

If things start to get ugly, find a set of vice grips for the nut...

There is a Vice Grip model (available in several sizes) specifically designed for hex nuts and bolts. I highly recommend the 4LW model for line nuts.

[vstech]

Originally Posted by qwerty

There is a Vice Grip model (available in several sizes) specifically designed for hex nuts and bolts. I highly recommend the 4LW model for line nuts.

+1

[brandlj]

11mm flare nut wrench. I invested in a set of flare nut wrenches recently. A good investment.

I use a pump up power bleeded from Bavarian autosport. Designed for my BMW's, but works very well on my sdl. You do not have to worry about the ABS. I flush my fluid yearly, no troubles yet. Hint!!!!! Make sure the two rubber caps on the master cylinder fluid reservoir are not old and cracked. When you pump up the pressure on a power bleeder, they will leak. Ask me how I know! I replaced both rubber caps and have never had another problem.