I'm putting together a plan to rebuild my front suspension, including upper control arms, lca bushings, ball joints, guide rods.

As part of the job I would also like pull the springs and possibly replace the spring shims. However I am also on budget and would like to not have to spend an extra 200 on a klann clone spring compressor.

So I am trying to get an authoritative opinion on whether the spring can be safely removed and put back in during the job if the lower control arm is going to be removed (e.g. compressing spring with jack, removing lca bolt, lowering spring out by slowly backing off jack)?

Thanks.

I would want to make sure the spring could not launch across the countryside. Like heavy high-grade chain and shackles. I'm about to do the same on my 240D, and have decided to spend the $$$ on a proper spring compressor. I don't need the extra 55-75 blood pressure points. That is, assuming the spring did not liberate itself and puncture my bark, thereby lowering the blood pressure to 0/0.


about .02 worth.. .09 adjusted for inflation.


snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

The proper tool is the best way to remove the springs. $200 isnt really horrible for the unit either. It takes a lot of worrying out of the equation.

I helped a buddy of mine replace all four springs on a 126 once with the rental type ones you can get from the parts store. They were pretty inadequate for the job. The rods bent a lot and it was a pain. Not to mention the fear of having a large spring pass through me, the car, the wall, etc.

You might want to try the tool rental forum, someone in there might have one to rent.

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

About 10 years ago I compressed the spring with a jack under the LCA. I adjusted threaded rod and hook style compressors as I jacked up the LCA. I did this until the hooks were about to touch the next coil up. Releasing the jack allowed the spring to come out with a small amount of clearance. I put it aside for a week until the rebuild was complete.

When it came time to reinstall, the spring was just shy of seating in the cup. I don't know if the hooks bent, the rods stretched or what. I managed to persuade the spring back in, but would never try it again. IIRC, I had a piece of flat stock under a bottom, uncompressed coil. Two bottle jacks on the flat stock gave me the 1/4" I needed to get the spring seated in the perch. I then used a 3rd jack on the LCA until I could bolt the LCA to the knuckle. By far the dumbest thing I've done repairing a car. Blood pressure was through the roof, even with multiple safety straps threaded through the coils.

Save yourself the stress and get the proper compressor.

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Greg Schwall

1983 300SD - 465,000 miles

Far too dangerous to play around with. You want the right spring compressor. Even if you have to purchase it it could be only a fraction of any medical bills that might result from not doing so.

Renting it out or selling it later. Thats if you canot find a temporary use one.

X2

I've been there and done it too - luckily they don't give out T shirts to show how stupid you've been.

Honestly until you've removed your first W123 spring you have no idea how dangerous these things can be. There is no 'king way I'll ever try that again. Much like the Remington adverts of old - "I was so 'king scared I bought the knock off compressor".



Why not borrow one from a forum member via the tool rental program?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks for all the quick feedback. I'll see what I can do to track down or purchase an appropriate spring compressor.

Anyone in the Seattle area willing to rent or lend one out?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tool-rental-program/291660-tool-rental-master-member-list.html
I along with several others have the PROPER tool to rent for a reasonable fee, cheaper than buying...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

PM sent

I do not believe this will work on the Front Springs; safe or not safe.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Long answer -possible if you are careful, very careful.

This is what I did with my 190D to change out the lower ball joint without a spring compressor.

1) Insert a metal rod thru the spring like the garage door spring. This will prevent the spring from launching if anything goes wrong.

2) Use a STRONG metal chain and chain up the string and lock it with a bolt or padlock.

3) Put a plywood in front of you before you lower the LCA. I did it with the first time but not the second time as I felt my contraption works. Or put on a motor bike helmet.

Disclaimer: I changed out both joints without incident but the final decision is on you.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I have taken the springs off of the '84 wagon when I stripped it. I looped several passes of chain through it and the hole inside the engine bay. This was not for reinstall, only for stripping.

I made sure people were close in order to call 911. Luckily it was not needed. However, a new set of boxers were.

DON'T DO IT. Totally not worth it. Get the tool. Even a trip to the non-emergency clinic will be more expensive.

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

just borrow one from a forum member. Brian Carlton was great to work with, as professional as any business I've worked with. I also agree, use the right tool. Raised my blood pressure even with the right tool, you have to compress a huge spring several inches to get it out. Just do everything under there while you have the springs off and you shouldn't need to touch them for a few more years!

Things are tense enough using the proper compressor. I heard a loud "pop" when the plate shifted slightly and that was enough to convince me that any other "rig" is definitely out of the question. In fact the second time I used the compressor, I took a few jabs at it with a long 2x4 to make sure things were seated well before lowering the jack to remove the spring. Those springs could definitely take a hand off!

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )