TD SLS Rear Strut Question
 

I had another thread asking help to identify a noise on my backend.

I recently took Beagle's advice to loosen the 2 lower bolts of the rear driver's side strut and to bounce the car and see if the noise goes away. It did!!! I'm really happy to finally get that noise diagnosed.

I have a problem now though... The strut is hanging low. I can't lift it up with my hand to reattach it. How am I suppose to reattach? What's the trick?

Is the strut still under pressure? I think you are going to have to disconnect the line going to it to be able to compress it. You may be able to use the weight of the car to compress it with out bleeding the fluid out of it, but that's not what I would try.

You might try messing with the adjusting rod, making the system think it's too high so opening the leveling valve to release pressure on the strut. Be very careful under there.

I like that idea. Un-bolt it from the adjustable connecting rod and then lift up on the lever. That should compress the strut.

Great! Well I guess I should try that.

My next question is... is it worth setting it back up, if I'm going to receive and install another one in the next week or so?

I won't need to use the car but to move it from one side of the street to the other for street parking.

Is there a how to somewhere where I can read how to install a new strut? I believe I would have to drain the system but I'm not sure where to get started.

You can lift the shock back up with a jack. It feels hard because you must now push a lot of oil through a very small hole - that's how a shock works. You could even do it by hand but you would have to press hard for a long time as it would only move very slowly. It fell down slowly when you unbolted, right?

Just don't start the engine and DON'T get under there!

Thanks Beagle. Will give that a try tomorrow. The strut did lower very slowly.

Is there a how to somewhere of how to replace the strut? Tried looking but couldn't find anything. I imagine it would be, draining the fluid, unbolt the lines, unbolt the strut, remove strut, and do the reverse?

No big deal. Would be a good idea to drain old fluid. Fit the strut with all 4 wheels on level ground. Reconnect the hose to top of strut and top up leveler reservoir. With engine idling and about 100kg loaded in the back bleed out the air from banjo connection on top of the strut (plenty of rags!) and top up reservoir again to the mark. I don't think I've missed anything - someone chip in if I have.

The 123 isn't self bleeding? The 124 is. Yes I know they are different cars, but the system is basically the same except for the pump.

123 is self-bleeding.

I'm about to go replace my strut. Any hints or tricks? Send them my way.

Wish me luck! Thanks guys!

Good luck, I haven't had to change mine so I can't offer much advice. Make sure the car is safely supported!

I would wear some safety glasses or goggles when you drain the fluid.

Ok I drained the fluid and the old strut is now detached. Im confused as to how I get the strut out. I tried pulling it downward and can't seem to fit it through the bottom hole.

Is there a trick to this anyone?

Nevermind. I got it out. Took some force. Ill post back once I have it all installed.

Ok all done. Was a fairly easy job. Took about 2 hours because I didn't know what I was doing. Next time it should only take me about an hour.

So far the junk yard strut is not leaking. Will keep on eye on it. The noise is gone so that's really nice!