Just in the last few days, when you press the accelerator pedal it will move slightly then stop, and if you apply more force it will make pop/snap sound and suddenly move freely all the way down. I haven't had time to look at it until tonight in the dark when i got home from work, but I looked at it under the hood and it is for sure sticking, but I cant see where. Any suggestions where to look in the morning? Or any resources with information about rebuilding it? The car has 400k+ miles on it, so its pretty worn out. I have the ability to fix it myself if I can find the parts, but depending on the cost and time I may have to get rid of the car, I will have to do more investigation though before I decide.

Hi Travis,

You may want to check ur Gas Pedal is not broken off or crudded up at the bottom of the gal pedal where u may be stones and crud. Mine broke and U can get a new one cheap with Phil at fastlane. There is a metal bracket where the pedal connects too floor, look for rust there. Or it may be under hood. Do easy first.

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1982 300SD

Look at these two circled areas on the linkage. I think you'll find that the clicking/popping noise might be coming from the left most circled area. Move the linkage with your hands and observe the movements.

By adjusting the right circled connection you can change pedal response a little. It also makes the pedal more firm. Just be sure to obvserve the linkage for any binding.

You should ideally lubricate each ball-socket connection with some lubricant. Last time I just used some ATF I had left over.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

Sounds like from your description, your problem is lack of maintenance. the ball sockets at the end of the linkages on top of the valve cover and one that goes down the back side of the IP, need to be lubricated once in a while. Inside the cup part is a little wire clip, after while it will break and jamb up the movement of the ball/socket.
Normally the ball/socket will pop apart with a little pressure. If they are very rusty they become difficult to separate and will bent the rod getting them apart. the end are replaceable form Phill. or get a few at the JY.

The FSM call for the use of ATF, but any thing will help to keep them lubed.
I take mine apart a couple time a year, clean them and regrease.

I agree with checking the peddle on the floor for accumulation of dirt and a worn bushing.
James has the red circle on the firewall. that swivel has a plastic ball "roller skate wheel" on the back side that can crack and cause stiffness in the movement. that thing is a $50 part.

If this one line you said is an indication with your association with your MB [but depending on the cost and time I may have to get rid of the car,] It will take cost and or lots of time to keep these on the road.

No such thing as a cheap maintenance free car in any brand.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I ain't recommending this fix for anyone else but it seems to me that I might disconnected the linkages one at a time, pushed the pedal then replace it before I moved to the next I might find which one (or more) could be the problem.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I found the problem I think, it was partly becasue the accelerator pedal was broken, and I replaced it and lubricated the linkage under the hood and it seems to work ok, the other place it was sticking (it still does but after i put a little grease on it its driveable), is where the busing moves in the slot (at about 270 degrees/9:00) in the right circle in the picture. Does anyone have the part number for that bushing?

I know this car will have problems, but I am in college and I just don't have the money to buy a car I would have time to maintain, but as long as I can keep this one working another 2 months I will be done so I can either fix it right or get something else.

Can you pick it from this picture:


The items in grey are not applicable to this car fyi

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

the part isnt in that picture.

Can you post a picture of yours? I'll look in the epc later and see if i can find anything. You might be able to see a part number on it too.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

Is it in the attachment?

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD