Well it is certainly possible that corrosion can happen at locations other than connections, but connections are where problems usually crop up. One other thought I had was that moisture or humidity might be causing some of the problem. Can you correlate more problems in high humidity times vs low humidity conditions?

The one thing that I am not very sure about is where if anywhere else there may be connections in the "ignition" circuit or main starter lines, besides at the Ign switch, the solenoid, and the NSS. If the jumping of term. 1 to term. 3 did not start the starter, I would then suspect the solenoid. But that is not the case here !!

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

OK, finally got under the car and removed both wires to the starter. To my surprise, they were not gunked up with any kind of crud, oil, etc. I cleaned up all connections with sandpaper to have nice clean metal. Replaced both connections, started the car 4-5 times. Every time it started. The next time, I let it idle a little while, then turned it off. The next try, it didn't start.

I have to revert a little and say that when this happens, I do actually here a click, or clank, from the starter when it won't start. Jumping the fender terminals ALWAYS starts the car at this point! Also, if I don't fully turn the key all the way to the start position, I can sort of jiggle it back and forth and continue to hear the clicking. Sometimes, doing this will start it, sometimes, it will wear the battery down to where even the fender terminal jumping will not start it.

My father-in-law thinks there's a problem with the contact plate or the plunger within the starter. I started to think that he may be right, but why, then, does it start EVERY time by jumping the fender terminals??? Is the starter getting some extra voltage or amps by doing this?

I'm assuming that the ignition switch is good, since I replaced it 20-25K miles ago. Later, I was thinking this might not be a good assumption. But, if the starter is clicking (clanking) when this problem occurs, I really assuming the ignition switch is good.

If I had truly thought it was a bad starter, I would have replaced it by now, either myself, or had someone do it since I realize it's a PITA. I would hate to spend the $ on a new starter and go through the process of removing and installing, just to end up having the same problem surface again.

Any thoughts, insight, or help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

__________________
'85 300D 190K miles
running on B100 Biodiesel since 156K, SCRATCH THAT! I can only find Biodiesel at 1 location in Houston! (not very convenient)

Jumping the fender terminals removes the ign switch connections, the NSS, and connections from the circuit. So, if the engine always starts, unless the battery is low, the problem likely is one of those bypassed items. Was the new ign switch an original MB item? Even as new as it is, it could be faulty. Also, how long did the engine idle when you then couldn't restart after turning it off?? Could be introducing heat to a connection or item that then fails or sticks.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

I don't know. Maybe this is a combination of culprits. I'm at wits end!

I let the engine idle for maybe 30-60 seconds. I also thought it could be a heat related problem.

I think I'm ready to give up and see what she sells for on eBay, problems included.

__________________
'85 300D 190K miles
running on B100 Biodiesel since 156K, SCRATCH THAT! I can only find Biodiesel at 1 location in Houston! (not very convenient)

Long before I went the SELL IT route, I would rig up a remote start switch to the fender terminals and route the wires and push button into the cabin. I actually had to do something like this on the old 220D for a while. That one didn't have the fender terminals, but it worked as long as I needed it to.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

I tried that with some wire, probably 14 gauge. Didn't work. Wires sparked and no start. Obviously too many amps.

__________________
'85 300D 190K miles
running on B100 Biodiesel since 156K, SCRATCH THAT! I can only find Biodiesel at 1 location in Houston! (not very convenient)

They make remote starter switches for bumping the engine when doing compression tests or adjusting valves. The wire used needs to be capable of handling the amp load, but it should not be near what the starter actually pulls. This is the set-up that I am proposing that you install. It will work !!!

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

This is not on a MB, but as long as you are mentioning a by-pass starter button. years ago, maybe 28 yrs ago, I was suddenly have the starter to click and not turn the engine over on my Datsun PU. (In Sig)

Replaced the Solinoid with a new one, and still the problem. got tird of using the Screw Driver start method jumping the starter. I rigged up a Starter button in the cabin, 12 G wire, and hooked one wire to the Battery and the other to the small wire connection on the Solinoid.

Ran that starter 432k miles and replaced it 3 yrs ago. Actually still using the Starter button. Installed it where the Ignition switch was, get around to fixing it one of these days.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

This is a common problem on 123's. There are pictures on here of someone putting a Ford solenoid near the battery and have the iginition switch activate the solenoid to make sure enough power gets to the starter by bypassing the OE ignition circuit wires.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Kerry,

I guess by what you are saying is that the solenoid is possibly not getting enough voltage? I will search the forum for the idea about the Ford solenoid. Basically what you're saying is that the starter and solenoid are fine, but the wiring associated with them is not doing what it is supposed to be doing. If I were to replace the starter, then I would probably still have the same problem? Is it just that the wiring and electrical stuff is not supposed to last this long (27 years)?
Thanks, again to all that bother to read and try to help!

__________________
'85 300D 190K miles
running on B100 Biodiesel since 156K, SCRATCH THAT! I can only find Biodiesel at 1 location in Houston! (not very convenient)

OK, I cannot find anything on this forum about using a Ford solenoid to help me out. Anyone have a link to this?

Anyone else have any other thoughts/ideas about this problem?

Thanks so much!

__________________
'85 300D 190K miles
running on B100 Biodiesel since 156K, SCRATCH THAT! I can only find Biodiesel at 1 location in Houston! (not very convenient)

There is another thread on here where someone disassembled the ignition switch and cleaned up the contacts solving the problem that way.

Here's the thread where the problem was found to be the contacts in the ignition switch. It describes how to fix it.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/174746-starter-delay-cold-weather-2.html

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I read that you hear a click which means the solenoid is trying so everything is working down to the solenoid. I suggest replacing the starter and solenoid. I thought about replacing just the solenoid on mine but the difference between a rebuilt starter and a solenoid wasn't much and you have to take out the starter anyways.

__________________
1977 300D Lost coolant while someone else was driving
1983 300D Can't run without oil
1985 300SD (gone but not forgotten)
1990 300TE 4matic Sold
1991 Yamaha Venture
1975 Kawsaki 250 triple
1974 Honda 200CL
1951 8N Ford
2008 Wildfire 650C

If the starter engages when jumped at the junction box, the conclusion should be inadequate voltage to the starter solenoid as opposed to a solenoid that needs to be rebuilt.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I did a search of Ford Starter Relay:

PeachParts Search

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works