Replaced delivery valve seals and..... W124 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gihardee · #1 05-07-2012, 11:03 PM

Hi guys,

I decided to replace my delivery valve seals on my 1987 300D because they were leaking and i was having a very rough idle (W124 chassis, OM603 engine).

Essentially, i opened the delivery valves, replaced the copper shim and rubber seals on all 6.

Out of curiosity, i took out the delivery valve and the pin that goes inside the delivery valve. Additionally, i decided to take a magnet and pull out the piece underneath the delivery valve ( i dont know what it is called), everything came out pretty smooth and i put everything back exactly the way it came out. (everything went back together very smoothly without forcing anything)

I fired up the car and now it's smoking like crazy to a point where my garage fills out with black smoke and i cannot see anything, the car also sounds like it is misfiring and struggles to rev up.

What could have gone wrong? I've attached a picture of all the pieces i took out. I circled a piece in red, I am wondering if this piece is supposed to be oriented in a certain way perhaps? it's got a groove on it and 2 holes ( 1 big and a smaller one) I simply took that piece out and slipped it back in the barrel..

Can anybody help!!

Note: Please see attached picture.

Regards

whunter · #2 05-08-2012, 12:33 AM

The piece you pulled out with a magnet is the calibration barrel.

The calibration is gone...

The injection pump must be removed and re-calibrated by a BOSCH injection pump shop.

You can call Phil to arrange this.

.

Diesel911 · #3 05-08-2012, 01:29 AM

You might as well try this first.

See if on the other side of the Barrel you have circled in Red there is a Slot similar to the one in the pic of a generic Plunger and Barrel (Mercedes calls them Elements).

If your Barrel has a similar slot look down inside of the Fuel Injection Pump housing and see if you can see a Pin sticking out of the Bore inside of that Housing. If there is a Pin take a good look at it to see if it is bent or the Housing is cracked where the Pin goes into it. Or for any other damage.

That Pin is supposed to line up with the Slot on the Barrel when you insert the Barrel into Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

If the "T" Shaped Plunger also came out when you Pulled out the Barrel the Plunger can actually fit into the Pump 2 ways but only one of them is correct.
In general there is a Machined Part on the side of the Plunger called the Helix. The Helix has to face the Fuel Feed Hole that is drilled through the side of the Barrel.

None of those part should be assembled dry; they should have Diesel Fuel on them when assembled.

If nothing is damaged you might be able to return it to the original positon and have it work OK.

Besides what happend to you you never want to use a Magnet on those parts because you do not what the parts to become Magnetic and attract magnetic Metal particles.

Diesel911 · #4 05-08-2012, 02:15 AM

On the M Pumps the Fuel Calibration is done by sliding the Blocks on the Rack to the front or rear of the Fuel Injection Pump. In the pic there is sort of rectangular Blocks with Allen Head Screws on them. Loosening the Screws allows the Block to move on the Fuel Rack.
The M Pump has a removable Side Cover; partly for that reason.

On the MW Pumps the same is done by rotating the Element Barrels and has no side Cover.

gsxr · #5 05-08-2012, 11:18 AM

Yeah, what Diesel911 said above. Sounds like you did not get the groove in the barrel aligned with the pin in the pump housing. There's another thread or two about this same problem. You might be able to fix it. And as noted above, the calibration should not have been affected as long as you didn't touch anything behind the side cover. Next time, don't touch ANYTHING below the copper washers.

gihardee · #6 05-08-2012, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

You might as well try this first.

See if on the other side of the Barrel you have circled in Red there is a Slot similar to the one in the pic of a generic Plunger and Barrel (Mercedes calls them Elements).

If your Barrel has a similar slot look down inside of the Fuel Injection Pump housing and see if you can see a Pin sticking out of the Bore inside of that Housing. If there is a Pin take a good look at it to see if it is bent or the Housing is cracked where the Pin goes into it. Or for any other damage.

That Pin is supposed to line up with the Slot on the Barrel when you insert the Barrel into Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

If the "T" Shaped Plunger also came out when you Pulled out the Barrel the Plunger can actually fit into the Pump 2 ways but only one of them is correct.
In general there is a Machined Part on the side of the Plunger called the Helix. The Helix has to face the Fuel Feed Hole that is drilled through the side of the Barrel.

None of those part should be assembled dry; they should have Diesel Fuel on them when assembled.

If nothing is damaged you might be able to return it to the original positon and have it work OK.

Besides what happend to you you never want to use a Magnet on those parts because you do not what the parts to become Magnetic and attract magnetic Metal particles.

Thanks Diesel 911, my barrel does have a slot and i will look out for those pins.

Thank You everyone for the help. This forum is amazing. this was my first post and I received so much help already.

Regards,
Hardeep

I will try this first. My

Diesel911 · #7 05-08-2012, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gihardee

Thanks Diesel 911, my barrel does have a slot and i will look out for those pins.

Thank You everyone for the help. This forum is amazing. this was my first post and I received so much help already.

Regards,
Hardeep

I will try this first. My

There should be only one Pin down there.

When people do this sort of job they should resist the temptation of loosening all of the Delivery Valve Holders at one time.
If one of the Barrles comes up and over the alignment Pin when you screw in the Delivery Valve Holder it will be sticking out higher than the rest of them. If you already removed all of the Delivery Valve Holders you will have nothing to compare the height to to see if the one you just installed is sticking out to var.

The other alternative would be before you remove the Delivery Valve Holders to measure the distance from the top of the Delivery Valve Holder to the Aluminum Housing of the Fuel Injection Pump and check the measurement before you Torque.

gihardee · #8 05-09-2012, 12:36 AM

Thanks Diesel911,

I found the pin you were pointing out but it seems to be stuck, i took a small pick and i tried pushing it back into the barrel so i could align it with the delivery valve holder. That pin dosent seem to want to move, does that mean its sheared? And how long is it supposed to be?

I tried visually aligning the grove on the delivery valve holder to where approximately the pin is supposed to go. How much variance is tolerable? How are you supposed to move those pins? are they supposed to be easy to move?

Second, you mentioned measuring the distance from the top of the delivery valve holder to the aluminum housing of the fuel injection pump, How much of a variance is tolerable there?

Thanks in advance

Diesel911 · #9 05-10-2012, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gihardee

Thanks Diesel911,

I found the pin you were pointing out but it seems to be stuck, i took a small pick and i tried pushing it back into the barrel so i could align it with the delivery valve holder. That pin dosent seem to want to move, does that mean its sheared? And how long is it supposed to be?

I tried visually aligning the grove on the delivery valve holder to where approximately the pin is supposed to go. How much variance is tolerable? How are you supposed to move those pins? are they supposed to be easy to move?

Second, you mentioned measuring the distance from the top of the delivery valve holder to the aluminum housing of the fuel injection pump, How much of a variance is tolerable there?

Thanks in advance

At least the Car is somewhat functional.

Take a look at the Picture of the Fuel Injection Pump with the Cover removed. You Pump may not be exactly like the one in the Picture but I believe where the Red Arrows are pointing are the Barrel Alignment Pins.

As viewed with the Cover off see if the problem Pin is sticking out more than the other Pins.
If it is sticking out I would avise removing the Barrel agin before tapping it in. Obviously don't tap it in too Far.

europower · #10 12-23-2013, 01:24 AM

Can one mess things up simply by moving any of those parts behind the side plate?

I changed my side plate gasket on the pump and noticed how easily all of those parts in there moved behind the plate.

I didn't loosen anything, other than the screws to remove the door.

I am trying to figure out what could happened today after I replaced the delivery seal seals and washers I now have a hesitant idle, I think it may be air but not sure.

Diesel911 · #11 12-23-2013, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by europower

Can one mess things up simply by moving any of those parts behind the side plate? i changed my side plate gasket on the pump and noticed how easily all of those parts in there moved behind the plate, i dint loosen anything, other than the screws to remove the door.I am trying to figure out what could happened today after i replaced the delivery seal seals and washers i now have a hesitant idle, i think it may be air but not sure.

The stuff behind the Cover Plate is the Fuel Rack and it is supposed to move but it should have been under some spring tension and return to where it started from.

Those parts that are screwed onto the square Rack/Rod are the Fuel Adjustments for the Elements. If one is loose or someone moves it the amount of Fuel put out by that Element changes.

Concerning the Cover Screws. Were they all the same size length?

If some are longer than others I suppose it is possible for a Screw to drag on the Rack.

whunter · #12 12-23-2013, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by europower

Can one mess things up simply by moving any of those parts behind the side plate? i changed my side plate gasket on the pump and noticed how easily all of those parts in there moved behind the plate, i dint loosen anything, other than the screws to remove the door.I am trying to figure out what could happened today after i replaced the delivery seal seals and washers i now have a hesitant idle, i think it may be air but not sure.

As long as you did not move the rack while the delivery valves where open, and did NOT move the barrel during seal replacement.

Doubtful it was the cover plate, screws, or moving the rack..

I would first suspect secondary breakage.

Example:

* Resting an arm or elbow against the throttle cable (plastic) adjusting screw, or fuel hose.

I frequently have issues of secondary breakage, usually plastic/rubber aged (brittle).

Simply shifting (moving) a vacuum harness for better access can cause secondary breakage.

Take a good hard look at anything you might have bumped, moved or rested against..

Then you begin looking for other causes.

Have a great day.
.

sixto · #13 12-23-2013, 03:01 AM

If you removed the needles and sleeves to replace the washer, did you retain the orientation of the groove in the sleeve? Did you follow the 3-step tightening procedure for the delivery valves?

Sixto
87 300D

whunter · #14 12-23-2013, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

If you removed the needles and sleeves to replace the washer, did you retain the orientation of the groove in the sleeve? Did you follow the 3-step tightening procedure for the delivery valves?

Sixto
87 300D

This is CRITICAL..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/173991-om60_series-ip-delivery-valve-reseal.html

.

gsxr · #15 12-23-2013, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

If you removed the needles and sleeves to replace the washer, did you retain the orientation of the groove in the sleeve? Did you follow the 3-step tightening procedure for the delivery valves?

Yep, what Sixto said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

This is CRITICAL..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/173991-om60_series-ip-delivery-valve-reseal.html

And what whunter said too.

Bummer.