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Busted rheostat...now what?
Today seemed like a nice day, so I figured I'd pull my instrument cluster to figure out why my dash lights wouldn't work. Checked the leads, they were in surprisingly good condition; PCB leads were all intact; bulbs were still good. So I go to check the rhesostat to repair it (used the DIY article by tankowner), and lo-and-behold, I find: this:
http://i47.tinypic.com/orqhw3.jpg http://i48.tinypic.com/2yjwv8g.jpg The spring was sticking out when I took a look at it. Upon disassembly, it looks like this. Dunno how long it was like that, but I figured years of turning the dial arm against it out of the channel did it in. Safe to say it's pretty fargone to repair. :( Any ideas? PS: Lost one of the two counter-springs in my carpet :rolleyes: |
solder a wire across the main terminals, and enjoy bright lights.
or, if you want to repair it to original condition, pull one from a different dash... |
Across the main terminals on the rheostat unit, or just the leads and leave the unit off?
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Hit your local PNP and grab a few. new they are quite pricy.
Charlie |
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Some solder a jumper wire across the pins with the rheostat removed. but then your lights are always on bright, w/o the ability to dim them.
I like to turn them down when my eyes are tird when Iam driving late at night. Charlie |
If you come across the big red 4 way flasher switch, they are NLA. think that is also your turn sig dinker danker. may never need one, but always good to have some spares.
Charlie |
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Yeah, grab everything you can, the herd of 123`s is getting thined down. every one crushed is that many parts out of the inventory.
I even pulled 4 240D heater boxes from under the dash. that job is just time consuming. one of them is going in the 85 300D.:) Charlie |
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