so i tore down my motor to clean it up for my swap into a toyota 4x4

the spacer ring is obvously seal worn- nice ring that will for sure cause a leak with the use of nother mercedes seal.
here are my questions
1- the victor reins brown color seal looks to be manufacured a tad different, i used my dial caliprs and found that the sealing lip should land a smidge over from the factory seal
but im not to confident that it will keep the oil in because this aftermarket seal does not have the secondary lip that rides on the balancer disc. im sure the factory made the secod seal for a reason..
2. anyone know if you can remove and flip the spacer ring? also how the hell do you get it off without the factory tool? kidnap a mercedes tech and his tool box?
3. anyone know of a seal saver?

thanks

You might get away with that and you might not. You cannot predict exactly where the new seal is going to ride. For all the effort involved, I would strongly recommend a new spacer ring.


Pry it off with two small straight screwdrivers used simultaneously on opposite sides (ie: 180 degrees apart.) The fit is not that tight, but the ring does need to come off straight.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Don't waste your time using a standard oil seal - use the OE seal or you will soon be doing the job again! The lip seals on the balancer face to keep dirt away from the oil seal area. Be sure to keep the oilseal face flush and square when you install, fill space between lip and seal with grease and polish face on balancer.

The old spacer can be reused as the seal point is 4mm off center (ie 8mm clear) - note which way round when removed!

The sleeve is a slide fit in crank. It is the burrs from the dowels that are holding it and these must be removed carefully with a small oil stone.

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Beagle

I have a used spacer sitting on the workbench right now where one edge of the original wear ring overlaps the center of the spacer. Additionally, I measure the flat surface of the spacer at approx 8.5 mm, so 4 mm off center would certainly make things interesting.

Here is a picture that Google found. No way is that wear groove offset by any 4mm.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=om+617+spacer+ring&hl=en&client=safari&sa=X&rls=en&biw=1638&bih=835&tbm=isch&prmd=imvnsfd&tbnid=DsiR591a0ZKS5M:&imgrefurl=http://forum.w116.org/mechanicals/m110-thermostat-housing-water-pump-and-crank-shaft-oil-seal-adventures-pics/&docid=eBbU-3mZwZkV7M&imgurl=http://gallery.w116.org/dl/8821-1/M110_%252Bcrank%252Bseal_009_pitted%252Bspacer%252Bring.jpg&w=704&h=528&ei=1PewT92EHYSo8gSi4M3aCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=841&vpy=294&dur=337&hovh=192&hovw=257&tx=116&ty=74&sig=106118738943843272756&page=2&tbnh=149&tbnw=206&start=30&ndsp=35&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:30,i:148

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Just because you see a shiny ring doesn't mean there's any appreciable wear. Take it out & give it a good look. Mine was like that but no measurable grove, just "polished" by the seal.

These threads may help

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304696-have-you-replaced-om615-616-617-front-main-seal.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/307379-balancing-disc-installation.html

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85 300TD 282K
83 300TD 197K

thanks guys big help!

I can pull my spacer ring off with my fingers and it probably has 4 hours on it. Is it worn from spinning on the crank? And the spacer ring seemed to have slid behind the seal. Possibly not even sealing. Shouldn’t it only slide far enough to seal?
Also, anyone know what the brass threaded plug is to the top right of the crank? I haven’t seen one with a bolt in it.. my 617 was leaking a drip per second at idle

Yes, I believe you can turn the ring 180 and reuse it.

The method of installation is critical, if not done correctly the inner lip will push against the ring instead of going up on the ring. The seal will look installed correctly but it isn't. Using a tip from forum members I was able to use a plastic cup cut to fit, as a cone over the nose of the crank and ring. Installed the seal and removed the plastic cup/cone. This was on a 616, should work the same.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Thank you! I’m pretty sure i did that cup method the first go with a clear cup. It seemed right but something was leaking bad.

What is the brass threaded insert on the right side of my main seal upper casing? Can it leak? Maybe if the chain wore the end of the insert if it was loose?

My question really was,
Should i be able to insta the spacer by hand easily? Or should i need tools to take it off and put it on? I have see a puller, but i can spin my spacer ring on the crank by hand and pull it off the crankshaft with one finger. Is this normal?

Also it seemed that te ring war pushing too far onto the crank, the seal wear mark was Galway to the lip of the ring. Normal?

Post a pic of the brass insert if you can, I'm not remembering it.

My recall is no puller needed for the seal ring. I would put a sealer on the inside of it on install, a very small film of Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket if still available. I wouldn't use silicone in case it oozed out and blocks something.

About where the seal rides on the ring, perhaps someone could measure one and post the specs for comparison. If feasible, a new one for peace of mind might be worth buying.

If the new seal has a spring in it, pack the spring cavity in 3 - 4 spots with Vaseline to prevent the spring from jumping out of place when driving it in place.

Loctite all of the bolts associated with the balancer and pulleys and torque spec them in place. They are known to come loose and not end well ruining the crankshaft and radiator.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Ur gonna be pissed when ur finally done doing all this work on the swap and find out your Toyota gasser engine actually had way may power than the 617 in the first place lol.

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