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'85 300TD tie-rod replacement
Greetings. My '85 300TD has started giving a noticeable 'clunk' in the front end, which appears to be the driver's lower tie rod assembly. I am guessing that I will go ahead and replace both sides. (I have already replaced the center link about 6 mos ago).
As I abhor going to the dealership, my questions are as follows: a) is it a fairly simple R&R to replace these items? I understand that alignment is obviously recommended- (but I have already paid the dealership TWICE to align in the past year and do not want to pay them again :\. b) can I take the old part and match the length/settings to the new part and get close to existing spec? c) I am guessing that it is not worth just replacing the ends vs. complete new tie rod assembly? (existing 'rod sections' are not damaged if that matters) Thanks in advance for the responses! Much appreciated. |
#2
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Very simple. Many parts stores will lend you a puller. (I recommend any type of separator over a pickle fork.)
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In some cases, the entire assembly costs less than the individual ends purchased separately. Or at least it has been that way in the past.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#3
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Alignment is absolutely necessary. You should get them as close to the same length as the originals and go directly to the alignment shop to get an alignment done. You can easily do just the ends, or get entire new tie rods, whichever is more cost-effective and/or simpler. The rods don't wear, so if they're not bent or damaged they are fine to reuse.
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#4
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I have been through some discussion on this board re: alignment and have been told that the dealership is the only one that can do it. They charge me $150 each time and want to start replacing every part 'to make it right." I just had it done second time about 3 mos ago.
This is a commuter car and only gets like 4k miles/year. I know tire wear could be a risk, but if I pull the old part with the wheels on the ground, size up the new part (checking for centering in the socket as best I can), will I be that far off? I realize I am bucking the "best practice" here, but my local MB dealer is a bit of a ripoff. Thank you for your help! |
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If you're offended... I apologize. If you're not, you probably understand that the stereotype fits some percentage of the time over 50.
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LOL. No offense at all. I am in a small community and really have not found a place locally that knows anything about these cars. Several times when I have taken it to a shop, they end up breaking more stuff than they fix. I like to work on the car, but obviously don't have the ability to align it. In my previous queries on this forum I have been told that only the dealer can align this car. Is that not the case? There is a reputable shop about 15 mi from me. |
#7
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Check out these videos DIY Alignment - Part 1 - YouTube DIY Alignment - Part 2 - YouTube DIY Alignment - Part 3 - YouTube Now, I think you can get things pretty close with a far simpler setup - at least to be able to get to the alignment shop without tearing up your tires. I recently replaced a tie rod and the tires were noticeably out of alignment. What I did was put an 8ft 2x4 on jackstands at the back of the vehicle. I then took a laser level like this and using the rear tires as a baseline made a mark where the laser point was registering on the 2x4. I then did the same thing for the front tires and adjusted the tie rod so that the laser point was at exactly the same position as for the rear. This puts the front and rear tires in the same track, and assuming that the rear end is in alignment (not a sure bet, but a reasonable assumption) and the track (distance between the wheels side to side) is the same both front and rear, then the front should be close enough. Alternately you could put a 2x4 at the front of the car too and if the distance between the laser dots front and rear was the same, the tires would be parallel and in so doing you would be pretty close - not to alignment specs, but to parallel tracking. (This method would eliminate any track differences between the front and rear) Certainly close enough to get to the alignment shop without any ill effects.
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Last edited by mach4; 05-15-2012 at 05:55 PM. |
#8
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That is pure poppycock. There is nothing unusual about a W123 front end. And competent front-end person can do the job.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#9
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there used to be a guy at my local tire shop that knew how to do MB alignments. he told me it takes 2 people making adjustments at the same time. i watched him once and as he was adjusting something on the right he hollered to the other guy on the left telling him what to do. the alignment was always perfect; too bad he doesn't work there anymore.
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#10
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Aligned twice in the past year, but the tie rod ends are now going out? The dealer didn't notice or recommend replacement in either alignment? I'd take a close look at everything else up front before spending more on a third alignment or even replacing the tie rods. There might be something else wrong, like LCA bushings, a ball joint, etc. Are there any other symptoms: tire wear, handling, difficulty returning to center?
If there is nothing else wrong with the front end, and it's currently in-spec, and you can accurately measure the existing tie-rod ends center to center, and then accurately install the new rods with the same length, there's a reasonable chance it'll be close enough. If the old rods were worn enough to clunk, there's no guarantee you're starting from a good spec. Regardless, even at 4k miles per year, rapid uneven wear may cost you more in replacement tires, not to mention possible problems with handling. I'd at least have the alignment checked after the repair. |
#11
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Why not just rebuild the entire front end while you're at it?
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#13
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Thank you for your feedback! |
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