Flexx Boot Axle Repair Using Cone

[tobybul]

Ok here it is. It was not as difficult as I imagined. As mentioned in a previous thread, the GSP axles I just put in were not any good and am not about to experiment and replace them with replacement GSPs since the job is not exactly a snap to do.

So here's how I did the flex boot work.

First I unfastened the oe straps off the boots. Then I slid out the old boots from the can and poured the gear oil out of it (have a container handy for the used oil). Each axle end took about 1/2 pint since both axle assemblies took a total of 1 qt.

Then I sprayed the inside of each axle with brake cleaner. Afterwhich, I cleaned it off with compressed air and poured a few drops of oil back in to it just to keep it lubricated.

I did not cut out the old boots yet. I kept them in the shaft since I was not sure how well the manual flexx boot installation would go.

Next, the Flexx boot installation process.

Soaked flexx boot and cone in hot tap water for about 3 minutes


Used Pledge to spray cone and boots to ease sliding. I inverted the boot inside out.


Could not take pic of boot on cone since I was by myself but heres the boot already on the axle. I had the axle resting on the table on a vertical position. It took some effort but but not too bad. Used paper towel and rag to hold and pull boot down. As a precaution, note that I did not cut out the old boots until I was sure I could put in the new boots.


I had to try it 2X for each boot to slip thru. It pretty much pops right thru.


Another view


I inverted the boot right side out and cut the excess piece.


After removing the old boots, draining the old oil out, shoving in the new boots and correctly fitting the new boots (trimming unneeded rubber) on the axle, position the axle so it is standing standing upright on a work surface. Do not clamp the new boots yet. Push it out of the way. Get the large and small clamps ready.

With the axle upright, fill the lower axle with new oil. IIRC, it took 1/2 pint or up to about half an inch filled over the gear. Once filled, reposition the boots on the axle.

Install the large clamp and the small clamp. Do not overtighten so you won't tear the boot. This completes one end.

Repeat the procedure to do the other end. I recall that all 4 axle ends took a total of 1 qt.



Heres the boot installed, the old boot and the strap fastening tool. The rings around the shaft are part of the old boots. Each boot had a ring inside which kept the rubber boot round. I made sure that I fastened all the new straps to the new boots before cutting out the old boots.


Final product and the stuff I used.


All in all, it probably took me about an hour to do both axles. And thats taking my time doing it.

Yes, Henrietta, there is gear oil inside those cans. Now lets see how long they stay there.

[running-snail]

Nice job documenting this process with pics! I haven't studied posts on the process but one of my axle's boots have what looks like deep cracks along the ridges. I should probably do this while I still can...

Thanks again for all of your write-ups recently - very helpful.

[Brian Carlton]

That's some good work. If the axles are in good condition, the cost to do that job is minimal as compared to getting replacements.

Where did you get that cone? Is it available online or from a McParts?

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

That's some good work. If the axles are in good condition, the cost to do that job is minimal as compared to getting replacements.

Where did you get that cone? Is it available online or from a McParts?

I got it from Astoria along with the boots, straps and tool. They were the ones who suggested soaking hot tap water and spraying pledge.

Edit/update:

I mentioned this on a later post but i ended removing the astoria boots and used Dorman boots instead. The astorias gave excess rubber accordioning which resulted into it getting pinched when reinstalling the axles. The Dormans are also a bit more sturdy. They did require more effort to slide in but not bad.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by tobybul

I got it from Astoria along with the boots, straps and tool. They were the ones who suggested soaking hot tap water and spraying pledge.

Since you'll never use the tool again, you might want to put it in the rental program..........or an ongoing sale program.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Since you'll never use the tool again, you might want to put it in the rental program..........or an ongoing sale program.

Or, you could give use that part numbar and price!

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Or, you could give use that part numbar and price!

Flexx Boot 3000 (includes strap and grease) $17 each
Strap Fastener tool $20
Cone $20
http://www.astoria2000.com/

Valvoline Durablend 80W90 oil $6.99 AZ
Pledge $???


As far as I know, Fastlane does not sell the Flexx Boot.

[DeliveryValve]

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

Regarding the GSP axles, are you sure you used the correct size spacer? I think I read somewhere the GSP axles does not take the original spacers.

[pawoSD]

I too will be doing this soon....we'll see how it goes!

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

Regarding the GSP axles, are you sure you used the correct size spacer? I think I read somewhere the GSP axles does not take the original spacers.

All I know is that the C clip went in fine so that tells me the spacer was ok.

[pawoSD]

Originally Posted by tobybul

All I know is that the C clip went in fine so that tells me the spacer was ok.

Sounds right. If the spacer was too thick it'd not have gone in properly. I bet it was just a tolerance problem in the axles. Can't expect all that much considering the price.

Think we might be able to rent that cone and clamp-tool from you sometime soon? We still need to order the flexx boots and such, hopefully we'll get to it sometime in the next few weeks.

[DeliveryValve]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Sounds right. If the spacer was too thick it'd not have gone in properly. ....

But if the spacers were too thin, the C clip would of also gone in fine. You would need to make sure the axles were seated in properly and check to make sure there was no gap between the C clip and carrier. Even a slight gap could wreak havoc in there.

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

But if the spacers were too thin, the C clip would of also gone in fine. You would need to make sure the axles were seated in properly and check to make sure there was no gap between the C clip and carrier. Even a slight gap could wreak havoc in there.

Marz, no gap or play if thats what you meant. The clip actually went in snug.

There really isn't much to the whole process. Once the bolt from the wheel end and the C clip from the diff end are removed, everything slides out. So, I can't imagine what else would cause the "rubbing" or "clunk" sounds from the rear end.

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Sounds right. If the spacer was too thick it'd not have gone in properly. I bet it was just a tolerance problem in the axles. Can't expect all that much considering the price.

Think we might be able to rent that cone and clamp-tool from you sometime soon? We still need to order the flexx boots and such, hopefully we'll get to it sometime in the next few weeks.

pawosd, just let me know when you are ready to do it. We can work out something.

[tobybul]

Just an update:

The Flexx boot should not have excess rubber between the straps on the axle. If there is too much rubber "accordioning" you could pinch it between the axle end and the shaft and puncture it as you are installing the axle on the car - which is what happened to me yesterday. The boot material is not heavy enough to withstand getting pinched.

So, now I have to redo that part.