Turbo oil drain woes - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eatont9999 · #1 05-19-2012, 04:59 PM

Hey all,

I decided to replace my turbo oil drain seals this weekend. I read a bunch of articles before hand and it didn't seem like too bad of a job. Well, now I'm stuck. I can't get the oil drain tube past the compressor housing. I busted up the grommet on the engine block to get more play but that doesn't help enough. I even used a pick to get more of the old grommet out. I have tried lifting it out and pushing it down and out. Neither direction has enough space to disconnect the tubes.

I unbolted the compressor housing trying to get it off but it won't come out from the intake manifold. I'm sure there is a trick to it. I tried turning the housing toward the passenger side and I even tried moving the housing off the compressor plate but there is an intermediate pipe that keeps preventing it from rotating off.

Any suggestions for other things I can try to get this stupid tube out?

eatont9999 · #2 05-19-2012, 10:13 PM

Well, I finally yanked the tube out. Now comes the PITA of installing it with the new grommet. I am having some trouble installing the tube into it.

Junkman · #3 05-19-2012, 10:23 PM

Details in the archives. There is a thread on how to install the tube with grommet using 1 hand. I posted pics of how I used long 3/8 extensions th push the grommet in. There is a gasket set to do all the way to the manifold to block gaskets for ~ $60.

Diesel911 · #4 05-19-2012, 11:55 PM

Here is my thread. (I might have use STP as a lube.)
Turbo Drain and Blow-by Drain Seal Replacement; Mein Kampf
Turbo Drain and Blow-by Drain Seal Replacement; Mein Kampf - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Here is another from another forum
Replacing Seals on Turbo Oil Drain Pipes - OM617.9xx

MBeige · #5 05-19-2012, 11:58 PM

If there is no choice left, you'll have to destroy the old straight tube. Replace ALL seals (upper and lower). DO NOT destroy the top bent tube, it's just a PITA to remove due to alternator/intake/exhaust manifold clearance issues. At least in my case, this is how it was. The oil pan was also removed to replace the gasket, better access to the opening from there too.

Old and new:

The Gears · #6 05-20-2012, 02:49 AM

The reason for leaks after the repair is the lower tube is not forced all the way up into the upper tube, locking the lower seal in place to fully expand the rubber fitting in the pan.
This job can be done without removing the upper tube, at least on a SD.
The lower tube must be forced down into the pan removing the "O" ring from its seat in the rubber fitting. Now pry the rubber fitting up the tube and out of the pan.
The top of the lower tube will be below the cup end on the
upper tube.(still in place)
With the rubber fitting out of the pan there is just enough wiggle room to pull the lower tube up and out past the end of the upper tube.
Now clean the tube, apply some grease slide on the new rubber fitting and a new "O" ring in the bottom grove. Keep the "O" ring and grove dry, no grease. This helps to keep the "O" ring in place. Grease the "O" ring seat in the rubber fitting.
Sneak the tube back down the pan hole. Seat the new fitting all the way down into the pan. I use a crows foot for this from the top with a long extension.
Now the tube must be forced up into the upper tube ALL THE WAY.
Same crows foot under two gear clamps on the tube. Tap up with a small weighted hammer. You can see up into the upper tube with a flash light to see if the tube is all the way up.

eatont9999 · #7 05-21-2012, 11:34 AM

Ah, the first time I read the tutorials before starting this project, I thought the grommet had to be installed in the engine block and the pipe shoved into it. Now I see that the grommet is slipped up to the center of the pipe, pipe installed in block, bent pipe attached, and grommet slid down and pushed into place.

I have ordered an oil pan gasket but I didn't remove the oil pan. I am now thinking I should re-seal the CDR/blowby tube now that I have all of this crap out. Will I need a special O-ring or is it a standard size I can find for the blowby tube?

eatont9999 · #8 05-21-2012, 04:05 PM

I can't find the parts to rebuild the crankcase blow by drain. Does anyone have the part numbers handy? I might as well do it as well since I have the turbo oil drain off.

gatorblue92 · #9 05-21-2012, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I can't find the parts to rebuild the crankcase blow by drain. Does anyone have the part numbers handy? I might as well do it as well since I have the turbo oil drain off.

The check valve is NLA but there is a part in the vacuum pump rebuild kit that will work.

eatont9999 · #10 05-21-2012, 06:34 PM

Is it necessary to replace the check valve? Is there an O-ring in the tube I can replace if the check valve is OK? Can I test the check valve by blowing air through the tube?

shadetree77 · #11 05-21-2012, 09:48 PM

yeah that vacuum pump rebuild kit is not cheap

Diesel911 · #12 05-21-2012, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

Is it necessary to replace the check valve? Is there an O-ring in the tube I can replace if the check valve is OK? Can I test the check valve by blowing air through the tube?

You would be blowing from the wrong end. The Check Valve keeps the crankcase pressure from going out by way of the Drain Tube.

The part number for the Check Valve is posted somewhere in one of the treads.
But, as said it may be no longer available.

gatorblue92 · #13 05-22-2012, 08:02 AM

Here is the article from the DIY section of the site with the part number.

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Oil Separator Check Valve

eatont9999 · #14 05-22-2012, 01:24 PM

From some of the pictures I have seen, it looks like the flared end of the grommet faces up. Can someone confirm?

As for the CDR drain, I found a large hole rubbed into the tube on the upper bend. I imagine that leaked quite a bit. I JB welded it because I really don't feel like messing with that bracket. I found an old, hard as a rock, O-ring between the CDR drain tube and the check valve. I will replace that and leave the check valve alone aside from maybe spraying some cleaner in it. I don't know if it works or not, I'll just hope it still works.

snookwhaler · #15 05-22-2012, 04:52 PM

Yes... Flared end up. It is kind of a PITA to shove the grommet down. It will "lock" into place. You will know when it is right. It has to be "all the way down" flat with the flange. Also, the tube needs to be all the way up and firmly seated into the grommet.

Be sure all the little pieces of that old grommet are out of there or you will never get it in.

There are 2 methods of doing this. The newer method was posted on here a year or so ago with a video and shows the procedure on an engine out of the car. This method is much easier than the original one (I have done both).

You can just clean the check valve. It only takes a few minutes to pull it and put it back. It is the same valve they use in the vacuum pump. Just remove it, clean it with brake cleaner and put it back. Be sure to inspect the little disc in there to verify it is still there, clean and moves back and forth.

If it were my car I would replace the hard line you are speaking of. Or pull it and have it welded.