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#1
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rear window trim
Yes, I have done a search on the rear window R&R, all I have learned is DON'T BEND THE ALUMINUM. Already had that figured out.
I believe the source of my spare tire well swimming pool is the rear window seal (Opened the trunk and looked for wet tracks after a downpour.) The rear window has been replaced by a PO. (If you look hard enough you can find broken glass residue, one defroster tab is broken off, and the trim looks like it was installed by an energetic chimp with a 3 lb hammer.) The trim on the parts car is perfect, can it be removed without cutting the gasket?
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1984 300 D runs, interior 1984 300 D light hit in front, RUST, mint/perfect dash, decent interior (see above), parts car (hate to kill one) 1998 Dodge diesel |
#2
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Yes - if the gasket and glass can be removed by popping the rubber, window,
and trim all out together. When the gaskets are pliable this can be done. Why are you worried about the gasket on the parts car ? To keep the glass intact in the car ? If you are thinking that you can remove the trim from one window and install that trim in another car where the window is already installed. That is really really tough and if anyone here has done it, it is more rare. If you just want the trim and are doing a new gasket for your window then you are right on target. I have done both front and rear on my 300D W123 body and they were easy enough, but that doing the trim thing on the bench with the rubber and glass was always tricky . But it worked out. In the end a block of wood and rubber mallet were used to seat the trim after the window was installed (for the tricky parts that did not seat).
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#3
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I have done a trim swap with the glass in. The trick is to run the window all the way down
then pull the rubber free from the door frame. I removed the trim by placing a thin springy blade putty knife up under the chrome strip then tapping the strip off a little at a time. I had a helper hold the strip as I tapped it off it's rail. First remove the vertical piece the same way then start the strip from that end.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom Last edited by The Gears; 05-20-2012 at 03:02 AM. |
#4
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Gears- Rear window, not door window, thanx anyway
Rhodes- I would like to keep the glass in the parts car, don't have any space to keep it out of the weather, and leaving it open sort of wipes out reason I bought it, (a very good interior, see sig.), the plan is/was to by a new gasket for the runner and R&R the rear window to try to fix the leak, and install the good trim. I am operating on the theory that the trim is a retainer, like the rubber strip in a channel in the middle of the gasket as was used on the older north american stuff (pre urethane gloop era), and that the bent up condition is an indication of the quality of the installation, hence the leakage. Don't know where else the leak would be, it isn't the trunk seal, the water track is on the plastic cover that hides the fuel tank, the rear window shelf is damp and discoloured, and there is water on the passenger compartment floor. Thoughts or suggestions, or am I up the creek here?
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1984 300 D runs, interior 1984 300 D light hit in front, RUST, mint/perfect dash, decent interior (see above), parts car (hate to kill one) 1998 Dodge diesel |
#5
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The trim is just for looks. I doesn't hold anything. This is what I would do... Cut the seal on your parts car In a way that frees the trim but leaves the outer and inner part of the seal to hold the glass. It should be fine not to leak too much. You could always put a tarp over it, right?
R&R the back glass on your runner using the trim from the PC. The trim is installed before the glass goes in. Check the FSM for the details.
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
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