I've had some trouble with the driver's window over the past few days on my 83 240d. Three days ago, the window was completely dead. I suspected a fuse or maybe the switch because the motor has never shown any signs of being bad and I didn't think it would just go dead over night. I checked the fuse, which looked good but I replaced it anyway. I then started fooling around with the switches. Here's where I'm a little confused - I've done some research on the forum and a lot of folks have said that you can't plug the driver's side into the other switches because it's a different part, thus that isn't an effective way to see if it is the switch or the motor.

Sure enough, the driver's window won't work when plugged into any of the other three spots. However, I can take any of the other three window plugs and plug them into the driver's switch and they will work there, which seems to contradict that theory and which leads me to think it's not the switch itself. After putting everything back together, the window still wasn't working. But, the next morning, it worked fine. Then, yesterday, I had the window about half way down and when I went to roll it back up, it was completely dead. It's dead again this morning.

Like I said, I don't think it's the switch so I don't think a thorough cleaning will do the trick. I don't think it's the motor. What else is there? I wouldn't think it could be the regulator - does the window just go dead when the regulator is bad? I think that the plug itself may be bad in some way, but the wires going in are all tight and nothing is obviously wrong. My main concern right now is just getting the window back up. Do I risk doing permanent damage if I just yank it back up? I would prefer to not have to take the door panel off right now because I've never taken one off before and I don't really have the time for a learning experience right now (leaving the country for three months in a couple of days). Any ideas? Thanks

If you lose a Fuse 2 Windows will stop working.

Most often it is the contacts inside of the Switch Burned. There is several threads on removing the Switch, taking it apart and scraping the burned area off of the contacts inside.
That worked for me.

I also had an incident where it turned out the Motor Wire Screws were loose at the Terminal Block on one of the Front Doors.
The Terminal Block is located at the Front Bottom of the Door under the Door Panel.

If take some Jumper Wires and Hook them to the 2 Motor Wires and the 2 Battery Terminals the Window will go one direction. Swapping the Wires to different Battery Terminals will cause the Window to go the opposite direction.
The Window Motors are not grounded to the Chassis as part of the electrical circuit like a Starter Motor is.

The Wires have also been know to crack where the Door Hinges.

The Rear Doors have no Terminal Block for the Power Window Wires; all the Wires go directly to the Switch in the Door.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

With the ignition "on" and the engine not running, watch the brightness of the dome light when you operate the window switch. If it dims, the circuit is complete. I had a problem like yours with my '83 and it was one of the bushings in the motor that was seized. Since I couldn't operate the window, I had to remove the motor from the operator. With a little polishing and lubrication, it works as good as new.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/315148-300d-console-switch-repair.html#post2941021

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

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