So i went to a MBCA tech session with a friend and i asked one of the guys there "what can i do to get a little more fuel out of my stock ip?" He gave my a few good ideas one of them being to move the base of the lines at the ip at an angle (see pic). He said that has fixed a lot of rough idle problems and will be able to move a bit more fuel. I did that right when i got home and first cold start it ran sooooo smooth! Though it was running at 750rpm it was smooth. Well i let it get up to its operating temp today and rev'd it a little and i noticed it would not idle down that much. It stayed at a tick over 1000rpm. That seems pretty high. It does not clunk into gear but still... What should i do? Put the lines back or turn the idle screw down? I would love it to idle around 800 but is that safe? Oh and what does your oil pressure gauge read when warm at idle? I hope mine is not too low. Thank you.

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So he unscrewed those bolts and moved the fuel elements?

Normally these should only be moved when the pump is on a test bench, so the pump can be properly calibrated.

The oil pressure is normal for 1050 rpm.

Idle speed should be around 750 rpm and no be above 800 rpm. If the engine idles too high, it can runaway to the maximum speed unloaded.

Are you sure the lever of the pump is at the idle stop when idling?

If you could get those fitting back to their original position would be good. The fact is you cannot as they are critically individually set on a test bench. I imagine you did not accuratly scribe their old positions.

Sad that someone would encourage their being moved randomly. Upsets the sequential firing of the injectors unless done in a calibrated way I think. Perhaps moving one with the milli volt method to restore a better idle is doable.Using the milli volt readings as a guide. There is basically nothing to risk then because otherwise the injection pump is going to be sent out. Or replaced.This can be expensive.

I've been on this forum for almost 9 years and I've read a lot of interesting things, but this is the first I've heard of this. I'm amazed. What are those 'clamps' called? I want to search the forum for more info. Thanks.

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They are the adjustments for the individual injection pump elements. They are adjustable to make up for manufacturing tollerances.

The amount of fuel introduced by each injector is critical in time and volume in comparison to the others. On a test stand they are used to calibrate the injection pump. Basically a keep your hands off type of item. Undertanding their function is fine though.

In reality you shouldnt ever adjust them which out it being on a Bosch test bench.

However i did adjust one of mine. At idle my engine would rock back and forth more than i liked, i narrowed it down to cylinder #4. So i did a compression test, compression in my motor was all around 375PSI in all cylinders, well within spec and really good for 254K. The injectors were new and balanced as well.

So i slightly gave cylinder a bit more fuel by adjusting the valve on the pump and it smoothed the idle out perfectly. Engine runs smooth as butter now.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Wow! Wtf? That makes me very upset! I cant spend that much to get it calibrated! Ugh, why did i do that?! What should i do now?

Yes it is, it was running just fine until i thought i was going to do something good but really i made a very expensive mistake.

So those are the "elements"? When someone says their IP has 7.5mm elements that is what they are talking about? Can i get new ones that are larger? I mean i have already messed mine up so there is nothing to loose.