1992 300D 2.5
I have a diesel leak at the IP, where the "Stop Engine" shaft goes into the IP- see picture.
Is there an O ring available that can be changed out? any other fix? Instructions?

thanks.

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

If there isn't an obvious way to replace a seal you can always coat it with RTV, and you would still be able to stop the car if you needed to.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I was just reading up some more, and somebody else fixed the leaky IP by replacing O rings in the metal fuel delivery lines. All my lines seem to be dry; but I'll go check and make sure it's not dripping from the top.
Also need to replace the rectangular gasket on the side of the IP- behind the flat plate.

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

When I replaced the delivery valve o-ring on the 190D, I also replaced the stop lever o-ring. Not sure if the pumps are similar.. However, I believe I used an o-ring from a fuel filter kit for the car. If not I'd assume a generic metric o-ring set would have the proper ring. The stop lever o-ring was easier to replace than delivery o-rings. One reason being no need for special 30 something spline socket.

Forgot to add. If your DV o-rings were leaking you would lose fuel prime. A large puddle underneath each time after driving

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Dave

1985 190D 2.2 auto--gone
1975 240D 4-speed--storage
1985 500SEL--daily driver
1985 300TD--bad rust, soon to part out...
1982 300SD--waiting on engine from RD
1984 190E--storage
1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins--daily driver

Thanks, Nick. I'll do the stop lever O ring first; will get the metric O ring set from Harbor Freight. I assume you just open the hex nut behind the stop lever, and I should find the culprit O ring?
on further examination, it looks like oil, not diesel- pic below

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

There's a transverse bolt that holds the stop lever to the arm. Remove the bolt then pull off the lever. Then IIRC there's a circlip holding a washer over the o-ring.

Sixto
87 300D^2

Good news is that I removed the transverse bolt and lever, removed the circlip and washer behind it.
Bad news is that I thought I had to remove the nut behind it also to get at the O ring- see pic.
Bad move- I knew something was wrong, because then the shaft came loose, and I lost the original position it was in; but didn't realize how serious this was.
I put everything back together- nice and clean, and started the engine.
It revved to the max, and wouldn't stop. In my panic, I cut the battery cable, but of course that doesn't help a diesel to stop! Luckily, I pushed hard on the stop lever, and manged to stop it.
It ran for probably a minute or less- don't know what damage is caused. Cooling fluid was of course boiling, lots of smoke, burning kinda smell. Is engine toast?
Everything is cooled down now; don't think there was any electrical burning
Hey- there was no leaking from the stop lever- the O ring worked!!

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

If it only ran for a minute it is probably fine.....but a minute would also probably not have boiled coolant. Smoke would be the fact you just did a semi-italian tuneup in your driveway.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yep, the italian tune up may turn out to be good; if all else ok.
Coolant was definitely boiling. So it may have run for a bit more; but definitely not much more than a minute.
How do I go about fixing the IP and getting the "stop engine" shaft in the right position? Do I need to get a new part? Was it the timing that I screwed up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

You can stop the engine by cutting off the air or fuel supply. Put a piece of cardboard in front of the air intake. Pull the supply line off the fuel pump. Fastest is probably loosing all the injector lines....

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Brian Toscano

FYI. The stop lever shaft will only leak oil, NOT fuel. If the leak was diesel fuel... you were looking at the wrong place. Fuel leaks are almost always from the DV O-rings.

Dunno about how to fix what went wrong, but I suspect you'll need to remove the vacuum shutoff pod from up top, and get things re-connected properly. Sounds like it shoved the rack forward a bunch which caused the revving. Not good.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

actually, yes the leak was oil.
now, I am faced with what to do/ how to "reset" the stop lever shaft in the IP at it's correct position; and more important, how to test it? I sure don't want to risk starting the engine again without knowing for sure. I read that you can pull vacuum and see the stop lever going up and down; but do not fully understand the detail

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K