Hi.

I have a very strange issue. Left the lights on -- on my 1983 300D for about 3 hours. When I tried to start battery was still strong, starter was cranking. But no start. I noticed though that the low fuel light, battery light, front brake pad sensor, brake light in the dash are all on even though I have half a tank of fuel, recent brake pad, e-brake off. One thing I noticed though is the glow plug light is off. It cranks on it's own and headlights are strong.

Then I jumped it using my diesel truck and waited about 5 minutes to charge the battery still no start and same dash lights on except for the glow plug.

Looks like I have to reset something but I do not know how to do that. Preliminary inspection of fuses seem all okay. It is is night time and need to move this car from where it is. If there is some trick to this I'd appreciate this.


Thanks for your help

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

I am charging it right now with a battery charger. Windows, sunroof, blower motor, and signal lights all work on on-posisition, fuel in primary filter. This car starts eve in -8F without plugging (done it last winter when I was camping and had only to cycle glow plug twice. New battery bought late February. I never have hard starting issues with this car and with the warm weather I was excpecting it to start with no glowplugs.

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

Obviously, your expectations were likely incorrect.

How about you going and testing for voltage at the glow plugs with a voltmeter?

There is no "magic reset switch".

They way the starting system is set up when you are Cranking your Glow Plug Relay is on.

So if your Glow Plug system is functioning normal you can never crank the Starter without using the Glow Plugs at the same time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What threw me off was the brake pad sensor and fuel empty dash light on. So I charged up the battery and got the fuel level right. But the culprit is a crack relay fuse. I think it just happened and the light being left on and the battery drained a bit has nothing to do with it just a coincidence. I assumed that I had enough residual heat from driving it earlier to have ignition.

Can I just use a wire while I wait for a proper fuse. Nobody has that part today.

Was dark and no proper tools last night and car is in a narrow ramp and I barely got the jumper wires from the truck to the car.

Thanks

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

All I have access is NAPA or autozone today. Is there any part I could use for that strip fuse? What is the AMP rating on that? Thanks

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

I think the glow plug strip fuse is 80 amp.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Cool. Here is the NAPA part... ATM N171253


NAPA AUTO PARTS

But not available today. So I guess I have to order here. Which means getting other parts I have been meaning to get. What about using a solid piece of 10 gauge copper wire while waiting for the part. Is that advisable or am I looking for trouble.

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

it depends on the crack. if it's vibration, then putting in the wire will work, but I'd pull the wire off the instant the car starts.

actually, I'd disconnect the glow plug harness altogether after it's started.
good opportunity to ohm out the glow plugs anyway.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

You're looking at about 80A which is way more than a 10 gauge wire can accept. It'll be getting quite hot and will probably melt its insulation.

Better to use a screwdriver and jump the the two terminals or a piece of similar steel.