Today, when I drove car in morning, the windows were all working. Car sat in sun for a while. When I got in to come back, I found that the driver side window would not open (no sounds or other indication that it was getting power)

First thought was a fuse had blown. But I seem to recall that driver front and passenger rear are on same fuse. But it is just the one window that is dead.

I suppose motor could have burned out or perhaps console switch has failed or somehow become disconnected.

Any other ideas before I start taking things apart??

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

More likely, it's a faulty switch. You can test it by moving the connector for the driver side front to the driver side rear part of the switch. See if the window will roll up and down. If it will, it's the switch.

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

I had one of my Front Windows stop working and was due to the 2 Screws that held the Motor Wires to the Terminal Block being loose. You can see them if you are careful to pry the lowest front part of the Door Panel away from the Door.

There is a couple of thread on removing the Counsel and the Switches and taking the Swich apart and cleaning the burned contacts.

don't lose the 2 Ball Bearings or 2 Springs inside of the Switch.

When it happened to me I used a small Pocket Knife to scrap the burned part off of the contacts.
Also sometimes the Switch is just full of gunk. However, I found Brake Cleaner makes the Plastic sticky so I would not use that.

If not the 2 items above next is a tie between the Motor Brushes being worn out or a Wire where the Door Hinges being broken.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for input. I will start with switches because I had console out to install radio and perhaps one plug was not fully seated. Then will go to door and check if motor gets any voltage.

My plan for 300D was to touch up wheel wells, but I guess that will have to wait

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

OK, I checked the switches and there is no problem there.

Removed door panel and found power at terminal screws and at motor. So, no doubt motor is toast.

I have had all this out in past, but forgot how to do it. I tried just removing motor (two Torx 20 screws), but that just removes the cover. Motor armature won't come out.

So I guess I have to remove the complete regulator. Is there any more to it than removing the three bolts? Window is in up position.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Power does not a complete circuit make. You need to check the ground portion of the circuit before you jump to conclusions about the motor.

Power to motor is a two wire circuit. Not grounded through chassis. If there is 12v at motor terminals and it doesn't run, then it seems to me motor is bad.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In order for the motor to run, it needs power at one terminal and continuity to ground at the other. With the switch not actuated, the motor normally has power at both terminals. Actuating the switch completes the ground path for one motor terminal; it would be a good idea to verify that is happening before you condemn the motor.

Take a look at your battery ground strap and tell me if it connects to anything but the chassis. In the final analysis, everything is grounded through the chassis.

That would be a faulty assumption. The motor will not run with 12v at both terminals.

querty, I do know how to troubleshoot electrical systems and have done so. I said I had 12v at the motor terminals and the motor wouldn't run - where do you get me saying 12v at both terminals?? Give it up. I don't have an electrical wiring problem or a bad ground.

The motor IS bad. I will post some pictures of why it will not run later. May be useful to others who go out and buy new regulators.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I found section in manual on removing regulator, but because windows is in 100% up position, it seems I have a problem getting at bolts on lift rail. (its coming back to me now, how I installed the regulator last time.

Maybe if I undo the regulator bolts it will drop enough to get at them? Anyway, will try that after lunch.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5