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Old 06-29-2012, 06:01 AM
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1995 E300 D vacuum modulator: is it adjustable?

Needing some clarification/help please..

My 95 E300D with a 722.435 transmission has an orange vacuum modular valve with a white cap that turns 180 degrees counter clockwise. Is this modulator actually adjustable or is just the earlier ones?

If so, how does that white cap come off to gain access for an adjustment?

Thanks

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Last edited by benedict; 06-29-2012 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:54 PM
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Anyone?
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:05 AM
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This PDF is the same as what my 95 E300D has. The replacement cap is 1269870745.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Vacuum Modulator Cap.pdf (67.4 KB, 556 views)
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rog-o View Post
This PDF is the same as what my 95 E300D has. The replacement cap is 1269870745.
Rog -o thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for.

I gave up last night trying to pry the plastic cap off - just as well. According to the document you sent me, the plastic cap is destroyed once removed and must be replaced.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:03 AM
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Worth making sure first that the Vacuum Control-Valve (On side of the IP) is correctly connected, and set up properly first.

In most cases, poor shifting is caused by the Vacuum system, its supply or the VCV or its setting thats wrong....

Definately worth checking is the metering orifice that supplies Vac to the VCV system--Often gets partially restricted by crud....
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W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

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Old 06-30-2012, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
Worth making sure first that the Vacuum Control-Valve (On side of the IP) is correctly connected, and set up properly first.

In most cases, poor shifting is caused by the Vacuum system, its supply or the VCV or its setting thats wrong....

Definately worth checking is the metering orifice that supplies Vac to the VCV system--Often gets partially restricted by crud....
Alastair thanks, I've spent pretty much half of the day today checking all vacuum fittings to do with the transmission circuit (and the intake resonance flaps as they both tee from the same port) from the vacuum pump. All was good so I adjusted the VCV as per the factory manual and surprise surprise: the transmission shifts beautifully. There is no flaring anymore for the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts.

I even removed the K1 piston spring upgrade (part no. A126 270 44 77) and put back the factory original spec spring, nice to have the original gear operating if possible. I will wait and see how the cold morning run goes before getting too excited.

Shift 1-2 is still slightly hard but I've driven a few of these E300D's and that seems to be the case with all of them. Maybe in the future I'll think about a superior shift kit or just a single spring if MB have one like they do for the K1.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:32 AM
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Ah--Glad you sorted the problem!

With regards 'shift-quality' the actual Transmissions (Apart from the 'flaring issue 2-3) are pretty good.


My W123 300D has the 722.405--which I'm guessing is pretty close setting wise to your 722.435--even though fitted on a different engine-guessing internally they will be pretty similar...

When cold, my shifts 1-2 are a little firm, but smooth out when hot. 2-3 is just a little 'soft' and 3-4 is just maybe a little firm sometimes. As far as I know my trans is completely original and has done 282K miles, Its had its fluid changed around 40K ago, thinking of doing it again sometime this year...
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W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #8  
Old 06-30-2012, 07:47 PM
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E300, 1995, Vacuum troubles? won't turn off, brake pedal hard to push

Do I need go straight to replacing the vacuum pump?
thanks
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:35 PM
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Wink Vacuum

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillary View Post
Do I need go straight to replacing the vacuum pump?
thanks
Check for leaks before attacking the pump.
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillary View Post
Do I need go straight to replacing the vacuum pump?
thanks
^x2

If you still can't get it to turn off.. Remove the (small) brown vacuum line attached to the larger black vacuum line located just before your brake booster and ( accidental porn warning) turn your key to the off position and give it a good suck - it should shut down. A mityvac will do the job also, as will turning the shut off valve located on the top of the main fuel filter.

Just be careful not to break the 'T' fitting or you'll be up for a complete brake booster line.

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