So I picked up a "new" AMP at a junkyard. Installed it, and nothing. Is there a way to test the pick up side near the harmonic balancer? What's the recommended gap on for the pickup? The tach was working the started to "sputter" while driving. I did the cigarette butt trick with the old AMP, that worked for about... oh... a day. So I got lucky at the junkyard and found a new AMP.

That "new" amp may have the same issue as your current one.

A fella here, or used to be Techguy512 builds solid state amps.

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83 SD

84 CD

Here is the address.


Product Summary

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

i scour the junkyards weekly and here is what i found about the amps: if you look at the middle inside of it (where the pins are) you will see some sort of glue holding things together. if the glue looks pure white its probably a working unit, if the glue looks yellowish or brown then it's probably no good. now this is not a 100% guarantee that the amp is good but i've probably pulled 30 amps over the years and all the ones with "white glue" have always worked.

You can test the pickup for continuity. Follow the gray wire to the tach amp, unplug and and it should read around 80 ohms if my memory is correct. If you search for "tach amp repair" post by me I gave the pin numbers and resistance.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked