In the middle of doing a valve adjustment. Used the DieselGiant.com method of turning over the engine by the power steering pump bolt. It seems something must need to be tightened as it no longer "grips" to turn over the engine. I only turned the 22mm bolt in clockwise direction as instructed.

The belt needs to be extremely tight to transmit the torque required to turn the engine. It needs to be much tighter than necessary to operate the p/s pump.

That's why this procedure is not preferred.

I have not read the DG Method. But, I used to use the Power Steering Nut to turn the Engine; During the Valve Adjustment.

What I found is that sometimes you can Push down on the Belt and get the Engine to turn but it is awkward to do.
But, it worked better if I measured the Belt Tension and then loosened the Power Steering Pump and Tightened the Belt.
When the Job was over I would re-adjust the Belt back to the tension I had before I tightened it.

If you remove your Glow Plugs the Engine is easier to turn and that is a good time to Ream out or otherwise clean the Glow Plug Holes.

Since that time I have switched to using a Remote Starter Switch attached to the Wire Terminal/Junction Block in front of the Battery (only on the Turbocharged W123s).

I don't know what year range but the Termial Block is under the Battery Tray on some SDs

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My N/A cars dont have that Terminal/Junction Block in front of the Battery but the 616s are no problem to turn with the steering pump bolt. The 300 N/A, TD is tough to turn that way and getting a socket on the crank bolt is really a pain but doable if the radiator shroud is rotated just right. It is possible to hook a switch to the starter solenoid however.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"