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#1
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92 300d won't accellerate from Stop
I'll try this again. My 300d has recently lost power from idle. It idles OK in park but will almost stall then I put it in drive. When I try to start moving, it is agonizingly slow to get the car moving. It won't hardly budge until the turbo kicks in. There is some grey smoke at idle but it goes away when I get rolling. Starting on an incline is almost impossible. Once I am moving, it runs fine. It runs strong on the highway and shifts smoothly. Accellerates uphill fine, at speed.
The condition is not consistent, it seems to come and go and is worse on hot days when I have driven it hard. Any ideas? Anyone? |
#2
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ELR and/or fuel filters and/or FUNGUS.
'Back side of the Injection Pump there is a two prong plug that controls the
Electronic Idle (CPU in compartment Behind the Battery issues commands to the ELR during Tranny engagement/A.C. compressor LOADING ,Etc.) 'Classic test is to unplug the connector behind the I.P. ...'Does the Idle DROP? ELR may be bad. What is your unloaded Idle Speed ? Fuel filters should be self Explanatory. ('Includes the Upside Down Strainer in the Bottom of the Fuel Tank.) FUNGUS is the Crap that lives in the Diesel/H2O interface of the Fuel Tank. (Condensation of the H2O along the sides of the Tank with daily heat changes.) OR Infestation "Caught" at an "UNCLEAN" fuel stop. Cure for FUNGUS iS Starbrite's Startron: Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment - Star Tron Diesel Additive I'm betting on the ELR having gone south. There is a Single threaded Rod with a locknut that is the Mechanical Idle control. It's right there on the back of the I.P.It has nothing to do with the ELR controls. GSXR offers Much More reading and Pictures than y'all will be able to absorb this week @: W124 Performance ps2cho's "Website" will be VERY HELPFUL in your W124 ownership also: - News (HINT: go to the site and register,then click on the Third item down on the left hand side of the page under Navigation.) Looking at the Photo from GSXR'S website...The Round Red Plastico thing (With two metal Pins sticking up is the ELR.The Mechanical Idle control set bolt and locknut is directly above the ELR pins in the photo) Index of /images/OM602_injection/pump_new The second photo is the I.P. from the driver's side.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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Thanks for the suggestion. The filters were changed and everything in the primary looked sparkly so I think the screen is OK too. I found that ELR and I'll try to unhook it and see if the idle changes. They don't make them easy to get to, do they?
I did a search and couldn't find an ELR for sale. Would that be a dealer only part? |
#4
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INSANITY !
000 074 46 88 is the Mercedes part # for the ELR (RETAIL $684.00 USD)
1427213007 is the Bosch part number for the ELR (RETAIL $468.00 USD) Zomezing Crazy is going on here! 'Ever need one I'll be plundering the Recycler's Yards.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#5
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Test for ELR (AND setting Idle MANUALLY!)
This would be MY permanent fix. [to set the Idle Speed With the set screw]
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#6
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Got around to checking the ELR. It is working. Idle drops significantly when I unplugged it.
I turned up the idle a bit with the mechanical adjustment but it didn't really fix anything. It idles a little higher but after gunning it a little it settles back and almost stalls out. It has stalled a couple of times while moving around parking lots. Still has good power once I'm rolling but I can barely climb out of my driveway. It runs well in the morning for my morning trip but runs like crap after I stop it and let it sit for an hour. Hotter days are worse. Don't know if it would affect idle but is the wastegate open on this car until the vacuum closes it? I hear some leaking pft, pft ,pft when I try to climb that hill out of my driveway. Maybe it's not closing soon enough? I don't hear that leak every time. |
#7
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Even if the wastegate were open "alla de time".
It couldn't cause engine shutdowns @ Low RPMs.
Basics Re-Fresher: 1.Compression (Vhat IZ Dis PhhTTT,PhhTTT,Phhttt noise???) [I surely do hope NOT] 2.Air (Figure out what kind of reversal of the laws of Physical Science would be necessary for a "Healthy Breathing Diesel @ Speed to Choke @ Idle AND I might consider that as a pre-cursor to a Theory.) 3.Fuel (Air intrusions will do Funny,Weird things.) If you've all three in the same engine block,it's kinda hard to stop a Diesel.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#8
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I don't "think" it is compression since it runs so well otherwise. When it's running good it's like a sewing machine.
Upon closer examination I do see a fair amount of little particles in the primary fuel filter. Normally I have none in there and I just changed the filters when I did a diesel purge and this accumulated rather quickly. Maybe a clogged screen after all. I'll blow out the line today and see if that changes anything. |
#9
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I'd unplug the vacuum line from the shut off valve just to make sure there is no residual vacuum in that line hindering the delivery of fuel.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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Sounds like a intermittent clogging in the fuel supply. If you tee in a vacuum gauge before the primary filter, you should be able to see whether there is a clog before the primary filter.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#11
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I unplugged the vacuum line from the shuttoff with the car stopped and yes there was plenty of vacuum still in it. Is it not supposed to be that way? Or are you saying to unplug it while the car is running?
Last edited by Charlie T; 07-27-2012 at 04:34 PM. |
#12
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What Kerry said
There should be NO Vacuum delivered to the S.O. Valve with the engine operating.
So,Unplug the Vacuum line from the S.O. valve and see if that helps the Lame low RPM performance.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#13
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Just a follow up for educational purposes. After disconnecting the injector lines, it appears that my number three cylinder is not firing. I'll try a new injector tomorrow. If that doesn't do it I guess it's time to pull the head. arrrrg!
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#14
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IMO, a compression test would make sense before concluding that the head needs to come off.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite |
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