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  #1  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:20 AM
vanastro's Avatar
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Location: Oracle, AZ
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New member needs advice.

Hi everyone. I am new to this forum and also a new owner of an '84 190D 2.2l 5-speed manual with 170k miles. I picked the car past weekend off CL in Phoenix, AZ. Upon calling the seller I was told that the car needs only a new alternator, new tires and new window glass.
At the first sight I've got a bad impression. The car sat low on the ground because all 4 tires were flat. The rear glass was smashed and all the pieces were inside. The front fog lights were smashed too and the wind shield had a crack. Still I didn't loose my excitement. I asked the owner to start the engine. To my surprise the engine started immediately despite a weak battery. It run a bit rough and noisy though, but didn't smoke at all.
That convinced me to buy the car. He wanted $1500 and wouldn't negotiate. So I paid what he asked. It cost me another $225 to tow it 120 miles (one way) to my place. I know, that was a good deal (his friend). So the total was $1725.00. What you think?
So today, I inspected the car and this is what I found.
1) the car was sitting in the elements for at least 6 months, possibly longer. The tires welded to the hot asphalt and thread got ripped off.
2) alternator pulley was completely loose and the serpentine belt came off.
3) coolant was low and I added one gallon of water. Then I discovered the leak. There is an electric circulation pump, for the heater I guess, that was leaking. The good part was that I did not find any traces of oil in the coolant reservoir or water in the engine oil.
Upon further inspection I found that the heater is bypassed. Water inlet and outlet are not connected. That means heater core is most likely leaking, right? What are the options. Can the old one be repaired, buy a new one any other alternatives?
4) engine front is covered with hard oil sludge and dirt. What is the likely source of the oil leak?
I would appreciate any advice from you experienced W201 owners. Thank you.

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  #2  
Old 07-26-2012, 05:54 AM
A work in process...
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 985
Well, the 5 speed part of your post is nice. All mine are automatics.

I have also learned this:
There is no such thing as a cheap used Mercedes.

This means, you can either spend $4000 on a Mercedes that is already in good shape.

OR

You can spend $1000 - $1500 on a Mercedes that will need $4000 worth of work to make it a $4000 dollar car.

You could look at it this way... these cars are pretty easy to work on and I have had alot of fun working on mine. You get into the car at a price point you can afford at the time.

My best advice is to go over the reliability and safety features of the car first. Make sure the basic systems are running well. Then you can buff it to a shine later.

Check for rust. If it's bad, you might want to consider using it for a parts car. If the rust is non-existant, you might have a keeper. Otherwise, you can at least have a solid daily driver.

Lubrication system of the engine - very important. I'd check the oil for water. If oil is milky then you may have a problem. If oil looks good then you can continue your checklist. Probably put in new filter and seal. New dino oil to clean out any sludge. Then go with Synthetic later when you have fixed the leaks.

Cooling system - isolate any leaks, flush and fill with proper Mercedes antifreeze/coolant. Don't forget to burp the engine to get rid of any air pockets.

Brakes - check all rotors for wear, replace worn parts - rotors and/or calipers and pads should be replaced in pairs front and/or back. Make sure the rubber brake hoses are not weathered, cracked or otherwise damaged. Brake pads and maybe flush out old fluid and replace with proper Mercedes rated fluid.

After sitting 6 months, your fuel may have gotten infected with biological growth. Check your fuel filters and expect to need spares. If growth is detected, you may need to try a biocide treatment.

That's just some of it.

Welcome to the forum and by all means, post some pictures!
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1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)
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  #3  
Old 07-26-2012, 06:18 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,613
Since it is running roughly I would not go very far with investments of money before taking a compression test. A weak or bad motor might make you want to stop and re-evaluate whether it is worth fixing.

It could be bacteria infested fuel or other simple problems but a compression test if you can rent or borrow a tester is free and the most important element in evaluating the soundness of the engine.

Good luck and welcome to PPshopforum!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #4  
Old 07-26-2012, 07:47 AM
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Location: Ooltewah, TN
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If the oil has been changed somewhat regularly and the motor not overheated, then most likely the motor internals are fine at 170K. Front oil leak is common from the front main seal. Unless its excessive, its not an "easy" fix so add a little oil between changes.

The aux water pump is designed to pump coolant into the heater coil when at idle. Can't imagine that being an issue in Phoenix. It can be removed completely.

If the heater is blocked off the bigest concern would be a leak inside the cabin. Huge PITA repair although again in Phoenix you may never use the heat? Could also be the climate control wasn't working properly leaving the heat on all the time and the PO disconnected the hose to stop the heat in lieu of properly repairing the climate control.

Find some replacement glass and cheap tires. Change the filters and drive it. The delivery valve seals will probably need replacing if its not been done which you will know by the diesel leak on top of the injection pump. I've got a driver that I enjoy. Would love to have your 5-speed.

Good luck!
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  #5  
Old 07-26-2012, 07:49 AM
Posting since Jan 2000
 
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Posts: 7,166
Yes as Tom suggests, do a compression check. For me if this were an automatic car I would have walked away and never looked back. Since it's a manual car, it has value if nothing more than to get the manual transmission set up from it.

If I were in the market for one of these cars. I would buy this car absolutely as cheap as possible and find a nice well cared for 190D in which to transplant the transmission.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

My $0.02,
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  #6  
Old 07-26-2012, 08:25 AM
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Location: Middle TN
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Now that you own it, get it out of the elements and make a list.
Pull the carpets & check for rust. Also check under the rear window gasket, jack supports & quarters. Plan on heater core. Vacuum pods will also be bad. I've found that I can change most pods without pulling the dash on an SD, not sure about yours. One very qualified opinion is that rebuilding double diaphragm pods doesn't allow full throw. I just did mine & found 1 bad diaphragm (in double pods) so replaced the bad & will take my chances while I look for a good dash.

Once you have a list, convert to dollars, multiply x2 and decide if you're willing. If willing, make a parts list. You need it running well, with AC then comes paint. Check web prices then give Phil a chance on the entire list. He can get most things and be close enough on price so service is worth it.

Have a competent bodyman come look at it before you get far down the road. What I thought could simply be painted over needs to be stripped. Now I have to decide if I'm willing to learn to strip, find a deal or walk. Datsun Z people would love to find a car in this shape but SDs can be bought in better shape for less than repairing so economics says "find deal, walk or drive as is".

For your next old car purchase, take $500 off for what the PO isn't telling, doesn't know or you don't see. They all look better at 1st glance then the fixin starts. Good job on the straight shift.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #7  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:14 PM
vanastro's Avatar
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Location: Oracle, AZ
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Thank you for all the input. Here are some more findings. The car has no rust anywhere except the battery compartment but that's probably normal. The paint (ORIENT-RED) is only weathered and with thorough buffing may be fully restored. BTW, in the glove box I found the owners manual and maintenance booklet. I also found the original invoice. The car was bought in Houston, TX on Jan31, 1984 for $22930.00 The original Becker Grand Prix radio is also there.
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  #8  
Old 07-27-2012, 05:01 AM
A work in process...
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanastro View Post
Thank you for all the input. Here are some more findings. The car has no rust anywhere except the battery compartment but that's probably normal. The paint (ORIENT-RED) is only weathered and with thorough buffing may be fully restored. BTW, in the glove box I found the owners manual and maintenance booklet. I also found the original invoice. The car was bought in Houston, TX on Jan31, 1984 for $22930.00 The original Becker Grand Prix radio is also there.
Good stuff! I like red muchly.

And, I have to give t walgamuth a X2 on the compression test idea. Rust is worse but... bad compression is definitely a Bad Thing(tm).
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1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2012, 12:57 AM
vanastro's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oracle, AZ
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Hi there,
Before I start pumping out the tank. How does diesel fuel infected with biological growth look like? Does it have any solids in it or just different color?
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Current Fleet:
'84 MB 190D 2.2L 5-Speed MT (Project)
'85 Astro Van powered by Nissan LD28 Inline 6 Diesel
Past rides:
'65 MB 190Dc fathers car maintained & driven by me
'66 MB L319
'59 MB 219
'58 MB 180D
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanastro View Post
Hi there,
Before I start pumping out the tank. How does diesel fuel infected with biological growth look like? Does it have any solids in it or just different color?
Little black specks. No reason to pump out tank. Bio side the hell out of what's in there and get ready to change filters a few times.
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:14 AM
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If you had been an Auto Club Member depending on what type of Membership you have they would have Towed The Car for you.
The Membershipe is less then the Towing Charge.
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:09 PM
vanastro's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 13
Thank you so much for the help.
Here is another question. When I turn the key I hear an electric motor running. The sound seems to be coming from the rear (tank?). Did the W201 have an factory installed electric fuel pump or is that a PO installation?
__________________
Current Fleet:
'84 MB 190D 2.2L 5-Speed MT (Project)
'85 Astro Van powered by Nissan LD28 Inline 6 Diesel
Past rides:
'65 MB 190Dc fathers car maintained & driven by me
'66 MB L319
'59 MB 219
'58 MB 180D
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:27 PM
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power antena
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2012, 02:26 PM
vanastro's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
power antena
Indeed. Dummkopf me
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Current Fleet:
'84 MB 190D 2.2L 5-Speed MT (Project)
'85 Astro Van powered by Nissan LD28 Inline 6 Diesel
Past rides:
'65 MB 190Dc fathers car maintained & driven by me
'66 MB L319
'59 MB 219
'58 MB 180D
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  #15  
Old 08-07-2012, 04:35 PM
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Location: NW WA
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Buying one of these cars as you describe can go a couple ways. Best scenario, the original owner had money and kept the car in top shape then sold it (not too long ago) to someone who didn't hurt it but let it go down hill, looks wise, missing hood star, trim strip, full of soda cans, way dirty... But under all this is a good car, Or the car was sold along time ago and the ugly is more than skin deep. Sometimes you cant tell till you get her home but you bought it cheap and if you can fix most of the problems yourself, you could have a nice car in the end. I bought a rough looking 5 speed TD that was owned till recently by a doctor that took good car of it, then the next owner let it go down hill. I had to spend some money to bring her back but a 5 speed Mercedes is pretty nice.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
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