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  #1  
Old 07-29-2012, 07:12 AM
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Engine oil recommendations for our old cars

I have been trying to figure out what kind of engine oil I should use in my 1983 300D.

I understand that the old CI-4 and CI-4+ formulations contained higher levels of anti-wear, oxidation inhibitor, and detergent/dispersent levels than the new (current) CJ-4 designation. Particular attention has been focused on total base number (TBN), zinc, and phosporus levels in CI vs CJ oils.

A review written by Martin and Patton in the TurdoDiesel Register grouped 22 oils into "best, good, satisfactory, and ho-hum" (below). The authors advised against using the low-end-performance CJ-4 oils unless your engine was newer (2007) and equipped with a diesel particulate filter (DPF) .

I would like to hear comments on this, and how you went about finding the correct oil for your old car.




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  #2  
Old 07-29-2012, 07:39 AM
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Welcome to the forum. Your best bet is to search the forum for answers to your oil questions as this topic has been discussed ENDLESSLY. Then, if you have particular questions that remain unanswered after your research, ask them.
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2012, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Welcome to the forum. Your best bet is to search the forum for answers to your oil questions as this topic has been discussed ENDLESSLY. Then, if you have particular questions that remain unanswered after your research, ask them.
I have not found that the data from Martin & Patton's TurboDiesel Register work has been discussed on this forum.

I am hoping that a qualified oil chemist or engineer will weigh in with information, specifically as regards CI-4 and CJ-4, and how a CJ-4 can be said to meet CI-4 standards, yet be 30% lower in some components.

I am not interested in "My daddy used X, and I use X."

Last edited by tyger; 07-29-2012 at 08:30 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2012, 09:46 AM
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I say just use something that has an MB-Approval, that should do the trick.


My 230E agrees
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2012, 10:00 AM
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People scrutinize add packs all day long, but there are a few things to it. First is to realize that the spectroscopic techniques used do not necessarily see all of the active additives that are present.

TBN is important, but TBN retention is more so.

CJ-4 oils have been proven very well over millions or billions of miles now. They perform well.

And, for the power density of the MB engines, it really is a moot point anyway, as some of the complaints of zinc and other adds have more to do with specifics of certain engine designs, which do not relate here.

Use a quality oil from one of the majors (I like rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40) and run with it.
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2012, 10:56 AM
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That chart from 2007 is obsolete. The additive packs change from time to time without and without regard for service designation change.

However, none of this really matters. What does matter is end result.

Go to Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™ where you can read for hours about everthing oil.

More importantly, start looking through the used oil analysis (UOA) threads to see how the different oils stand up. There are plenty of MBZ diesel UOA results there.
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyger View Post
I am hoping that a qualified oil chemist or engineer will weigh in with information, specifically as regards CI-4 and CJ-4, and how a CJ-4 can be said to meet CI-4 standards, yet be 30% lower in some components
The bottom line is that it hardly matters. Oil deteriorates over time and you can use any oil you wish if you change it on a regular basis. A diesel engine accumulates soot in the oil which is cumulative depending on hours of use. This soot is what drives the oil change well before the oil deteriorates to the point of necessitating change.

A group IV synthetic oil will protect the engine for 15K miles. However, the accumulated soot will demand that it be replaced much sooner than this mileage interval.

Accordingly, what specific diesel rated oil you select is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things.
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  #8  
Old 07-29-2012, 12:06 PM
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i don't disagree with brian......

i use rotella 15w40 in regular or synthetic in all my diesels.
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  #9  
Old 07-29-2012, 01:55 PM
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I don't recall my daddy ever changing the oil in his car. I use... well... never mind.

How long will CI-4/+ be available? I haven't seen Delo 400 (non LE) in years.

Sixto
87 300D^2
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  #10  
Old 07-29-2012, 02:07 PM
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Amsoil 15/40W Marine synthetic in all my rigs.
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  #11  
Old 07-29-2012, 02:13 PM
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I'm not joining in! I'm not! I'm not! (well not here anyway - I answered your BW thread with the same title)
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  #12  
Old 07-29-2012, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Army View Post
I'm not joining in! I'm not! I'm not! (well not here anyway - I answered your BW thread with the same title)
I fell for it, didn't I?
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2012, 03:43 PM
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Wish I could find the valvoline blue stuff locally.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2012, 10:30 PM
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I've been switching most of our cars to Rotella T6...

420SEL and 300SD both are on Rotella T6 15W40.
The 190 has a batch of Mobil1 Synthetic 0w40...

The new 300D is going to get an oil analysis before I move to a different oil. The previous owner gave me two gallons of Pilot's 15W40 which is on this chart and in an acceptable category! So I'll run that and switch to something higher grade after I hear back from the boys at Blackstone.

I would encourage all to give oil analysis a shot. Its only $25.
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
I've been switching most of our cars to Rotella T6...

420SEL and 300SD both are on Rotella T6 15W40.
The 190 has a batch of Mobil1 Synthetic 0w40...

The new 300D is going to get an oil analysis before I move to a different oil. The previous owner gave me two gallons of Pilot's 15W40 which is on this chart and in an acceptable category! So I'll run that and switch to something higher grade after I hear back from the boys at Blackstone.

I would encourage all to give oil analysis a shot. Its only $25.
isn't T6 the blue bottle 5w40 synthetic?

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