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  #1  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:40 PM
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Help! 1979 300TD won't wake up!

I put my 1979 300TD to sleep in a shed for a year and now I can't get it to wake up.

I've purged the fuel system (including the injector pump and injector lines)--I'm now running clean fuel directly from a small fuel tank through the aftermarket electric fuel pump to the IP. The fuel is currently 95% diesel and 5% gasoline (a caffeinated mix for a sleep auto!). I ran WVO in this car for several years, but had been running pure diesel for months when I put it to sleep.

I've replaced and tested the glow plugs.

I've removed, cleaned, and replaced the injectors.

I've lubricated the throttle assembly (which had frozen up during the year).

I've opened the air cleaner to bypass the moldy air filter.

There is fuel pressure (high!) at the IP, and fuel flows when I crack the injector lines at the injectors and spin the engine.

The engine _almost_ catches after it cranks for 15 or 20 seconds. Before that, it doesn't even really fire. I keep running down the battery and then having to trickle charge it to go back and try again.

I'm at my wit's end.

HELP!

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:51 PM
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Have you tested the glow plugs are getting voltage when you turn the key to the glow position? Or just that the glow plugs work?

When you say you removed, cleaned and replaced injectors, did you check the spray pattern?

Hooking up another battery may help give you more tries and longer cranking times.

My guess is the engine has low compression and needs everything in order to start after a long sit. Check for power at the glow plugs while glowing and add an extra battery to crank longer. Hooking up another car to it while that car is running should accomplish the same thing of allowing you to crank longer.
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:29 PM
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thanks for the reply.

I tested the glow plugs by using jumpers from the glow plug wire by the firewall and turning the key to run through a glow cycle.

I was not able to pattern or pressure test the injectors, though I did clean them carefully. Even if the pattern and pressure were a little off on one or more of them, the thing would still _run_, wouldn't it?

just keep cranking, huh?
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  #4  
Old 08-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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has the car ran WVO? Did you by chance last shut it down with some in IP?

It has been discussed before, but the rack in IP may be sticking. I had the same problem.

Check the "wont start for anything" thread
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2012, 08:17 PM
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I don't understand your glow plug testing procedure. I suspect your plugs are not working. You have series/loop plugs if it's still OE. If one fails, they all fail. Are the resistor wires glowing red hot when the key is in the glow position?
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2012, 11:11 AM
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@kerry, I have pencil-style plugs wired in parallel. I'm pretty certain they're working (after replacing them, I tested a couple of them "in situ" by using jumper wires and running the car through the glow cycle with the plugs wired in but not actually screwed into the block/head).

@Markp, I'm trying to find that thread and failing (the search function on this site doesn't seem to be working properly). Fuel flows when I crack the injector lines at the injectors and crank...
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  #7  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:04 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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Simple glow plug test

I suggest removal of the injectors. Make sure you have spare compression seals. Turn off the garage lights and turn the key for pre glow. Look down each injector port and make sure you have glow on each GP. After you confirm that the GP are all operational, crack the engine with the ejectors removed and connected to the pump. Put a towel down to sop up the fuel. Have some one crank the engine while you inspect each ejector spray pattern and that fuel is coming out of each one. If the above checks out, crank a bit more and drop in some motor oil into each piston. Crank a bit longer to get most of the oil out and then reinstall everything and try to start. NOt sure how to test the control rod issue someone else posted.
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Last edited by HGV; 08-03-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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  #8  
Old 08-03-2012, 01:50 PM
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Did you bleed the fuel system all the way to the injectors? I wouldn't worry about the injector pattern until you get it running.
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  #9  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsugarfree View Post
@kerry, I have pencil-style plugs wired in parallel. I'm pretty certain they're working (after replacing them, I tested a couple of them "in situ" by using jumper wires and running the car through the glow cycle with the plugs wired in but not actually screwed into the block/head).

@Markp, I'm trying to find that thread and failing (the search function on this site doesn't seem to be working properly). Fuel flows when I crack the injector lines at the injectors and crank...
If fuel is flowing/pressure is building at inj, then its probably not the problem.

Try pinching the return, maybe the check valve at outlet of IP is stuck? Again, probably not the problem since you see fuel at inj, but are you seeing enough fuel/pressure there?

All this assumes that GP's have 12V and are working... Make sure engine to chassis ground is good.

I can hear that cranking from here! Don't kill your starter.

Good luck.
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  #10  
Old 08-03-2012, 09:45 PM
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Won`t start for anything.

This the thread you were refering to?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/104222-wont-start-anything-1985-300sd.html

Charlie
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  #11  
Old 08-03-2012, 10:08 PM
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I have to give a X2 to Graplr.

Also, you say the air cleaner element was MOULDY? Are you sure the airway into the intake is clear and not also mouldy?

To my knowledge, the 79 617's were not turbo. Is it possible that the airflow could be choked with detritus?

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