Hi:

Could anyone help me out with a basic question? What is the best way to go about disconnecting the in-line connections in the main vacuum line? I'm afraid of damaging old material, and that hose is pretty hard (brittle?)...

Thanks!

Bradley

I made the assumption that you want to remove the Plastic Tubing from the Line; otherwise you just unscrew the Fitting Nuts.

I don't think it can be removed with out damaging the Tubing or the Plastic Nipples.

I opted to replace the Plastic Tubing with Emissions/Vacuum Hose. To the end I used a sharp Knife and stuck the Blade sort of side ways under the Hose somewhat as you would do if you stuck a Screwdriver between the Plastic Hose and the Nipple.
I cut away from the Nipple until I split the Hose enough to pull it off of the Nipple.

when I replaced the Hose I made it longer so that the Line runs closer to the Fender so it is more out of the way than the Stock setup was.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Bradley, I use a device called a "Spring Hook" which is nothing more than a thin rod, about five or six inches long, with a sharpened tip. The first 1//2 " ( it can be less) of the tip is bent back at about sixty degrees on it self to form a hook. Insert the hook into end of Vac hose and pull it off. You might have to wiggle it a bit to loosen the hose but it should come off clean. As the name implies you can use the tool to attach and remove spring ends too.
Good luck, Noodles

I am going to stick My neck out and say that I believe the Plastic Tubing is too hard for the Hooked Tool to work.

I know the hook Tool works on Rubber Hoses but in this case the Hose is not rubber and the Plastic has been subjected to the under the Hood temperatures for over 20 years.

But, I would be interested to hear if the hooked Tool works.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have never had much of a problem removing vac connections from hard line but I always wipe a little synthetic grease on the hard tubing when I slide fitting back on to make future R&R work go easier - remember if you break a line, just cut neatly and slip a vac tubing joint on at the break, good luck!

On tough vac lines grab hold of the plastic vac lines and push the rubber connector off with the tip of the screwdriver.

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I hope bradley6 comes back and tells us which Vacuum Line/Hose he is speaking of?

I thought it was the Plastic Tubing of the Main Vacuum line as seen below.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks, all of you.

Diesel911, your diagram depicts exactly what I was referring to. I want to disconnect so I can plug the line, isolate the brake booster, and hopefully determine if it's the booster leaking or the pump malfunctioning.

Warmblood, what is your method? My initial experiments with tearing it loose were totally ineffective (pliars and screwdriver).

Bradley

Maybe you can carefully heat the tube by means of a paint-stripper heat gun.

If you want to simply plug off the two orifices, you can use a couple of blind plugs, or even a length of hose connecting the two.

Or, you can unscrew the main line at the booster, connect a series of reducer bits and using a mity-vac, pump and pump and pump and pump some more to create a vacuum in it and observe the gauge.

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83 SD

84 CD

Doesn't work.

Best solution is to carefully cut the old nylon hose of the fittings and use rubber hose instead.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Wouldn't rubber hose collapse?

Somebody has gotten these apart, and posted so without remarking upon difficulty. I just don't remember who or what thread.

Unfortunately, I have no mity-vac at my disposal right now.

B

Absolutely not.

Here's a picture of my main vacuum line showing the two-port tap.




And another of the connection to the brake booster.



Going with rubber hose is so much nicer. Less likely to break and you can run it out of the way.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica