Hello, Does anyone over here know how to roll a new timing chain into a m116 engine? I accessed the manual and it looks like they start on the passenger side cam gear but all the write-ups sound like they start on the drivers side cam gear. Which is the correct side to start. I can then cut the chain and start rolling the new one in.

What does the manual mean by right hand side camshaft? Is that the passenger side?

Right side is the drivers side. Shop manual always assumes standing in front of the car looking at the engine.


There is a very specific procedure to rolling in a timing chain, especially on the v8's, not a small undertaking. The chain must NEVER be loose. I recommend you have a MB mechanic work on it or you're going to end up with a 400lb paper weight.

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So when putting in a new timing chain is it the drivers side that I cut into the old timing chain to connect to a new timing chain to roll through? I am confused with the manual picture, as it looks like they are cutting into the passenger side of the chain but they say right hand side of the camshaft? service manual 05-320

There are two camshafts.....logistically I would think you would begin with attaching the new chain on the right side of the left camshaft sprocket, this would allow for the best placement and ability to put tension on both ends.

Are you replacing the chain guides also? If not the project is pointless, as those failing will take out the new chain just as quick as an old one. They are the prime culprit for chain failures.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yes, I already put three new chain slides and a new tensioner rail in. I have a new tensioner in a bag of oil and a timing chain ready to go in. I have replaced everything back to the way it was with the new guides installed and want to begin rolling in a new chain? I have installed the old tensioner and will put the new tensioner in after the new chain is put in. or should I remove the tensioner altogether while winding in the new chain. The manual says to remove the tensioner and one of the rocker arms. I have not removed any rocker arms cause I have not heard of anyone else removing them.

So then what you are saying is ...it is the passenger side cam gear that gets a link cut, preferably on the upper right side of the sprocket and then attach the new chain and start rolling it in keeping tension on it at all times? I guess it would be important to keep the tension on the drivers side cam gear?

That makes more sense to me looking at the picture of how the chain is routed through the engine. If I were to go the other way then the chain would have to turn a loose corner and there could be problems.

The old chain should just pile up on the pass side as it comes out then? Or should I have someone there holding tension on the old chain while it is coming off?

Right Here!

__________________
With best regards

Al

It really is best to have a helper when rolling in a chain. Not a necessity, but makes life easier.

The new guides are the easy part.

My tool to support the chain fits the passenger side (LHD) of the car. Depending on the frequency of the oil changes from the past, you may have worn sprockets also and still experience a late chain (the chain I just rolled in replaced a replacement) If so, you need to look into offset woodruff keys to zero out your cams. I am ~3° late with a new chain (zero miles) on old sprockets, 155k on the car. I am going to do 2° camshaft keys, which will give me 4° at the crankshaft. I will be slightly advanced but when my chain wears a bit, I should be zero to 1° late. ...I hope.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

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Got it installed and I am alot happier where the marks are lining up. I think I was in between 11 and 13 degrees of stretch before the new chain. I am now a little bit behind the zero, perhaps what you were talking about with regards to the gears being worn, Hit Man X.

I started out slow and had some problems... then my helpers went to bed so it was just me and the hound dog again.

It seemed to me like the passenger side cam kept wanting to skip a tooth on me. By the time I had the chain rolled through it was apparent that I needed to back up that pass side cam a little bit so that I could get everything to line up. I think it was constantly on the verge of a valve opening and it would snap the cam forward by a half inch or so. Actually holding the cam with some vice grips on the rough part helped to hold the chain in place while I put the new tensioner in and then that helped to keep the cam in the right spot. My cam marks line up pretty good. One is the width of the mark (a hair) behind the line and the other one is the same distance on the other side of the line. My rotor lines up perfectly with the number one cylinder and the mark on the base of the distributor is locked in and tightened down. I salvaged an old distributor cap from a parts car and will install some new plugs in tomorrow.

I have the old oil draining overnight right now. I poured some new oil down the chain box all over the new chain and guides to rinse it all off. Thanks for coming to the rescue and for the link AL....it helped.

I am debating weather to take the oil pan off and try to see if I can change the oil pump chain. How hard is that? I can see there is a dent on the pan ...maybe I should order one of those rubber snouts with the screen for the oil pump first and change the oil again when the part gets here.

Just thinking about how the manual says to remove a rocker arm before starting this. I think based on what I experienced with the pass. side cam jumping forward on me that this is why they say to remove a rocker arm. I believe that if I ever have to do this again then I will take out the offending rocker arm. I am not sure which rocker arm it is but it is on the passenger side. I also think that it would have been better to take out the tensioner like it says in the manual. I left the old one in but ended up almost backing the screws all the way out. It kept trying to tighten the chain as I rolled the engine over and it was creating problems especially with the pass. side cam trying to jump forward. It was the installation of the timing tensioner that helped to hold the cam on its index marks to line it up with the other cam index marks. I can see how people are ending up one tooth off.

If you take the rocker arms off and remove the plugs, rolling the chain is very simple as there is no compression to fight you. Then all you have to do is set the cams up and put the arms back on. You'll need a special tool to remove the arms.

You can use zip ties instead of vice grips which will make sure that nothing slips. You'll use a lot of zip ties and it takes a little longer but in my opinion, it's safer and does not require a second person as you can tie the old chain down to the sprocket too.

__________________
With best regards

Al

I tried using some small zip ties with one linked to another cause they were'nt quite long enough but they were too flimsy. When I first started winding the chain in... the drivers side cam was turning and the passenger side was'nt. It took me awhile to figure out that the cable ties were so small and flimsy that they would stretch and not allow the chain to pull the passenger side cam along with the rest of the assembly when I turned the engine over at the crank pulley bolt. If I would have had a more heavy duty zip tie then it would have worked but in the end I had to use vise grips. I read somewhere that heavy duty zip ties are required but this was all I had. I wanted the zip ties to work cause I did not want to go around vise gripping my brand new chain but I gripped it very loose so as not to mar anything.

Skipping the part about removing the rocker arm was also a mistake. I agree that some of them should be removed. Not following the manual and making my own shortcuts proved once again to have not been a great way to do this, but I do not have the special tools to take off the rockers so that was out of the question at least right now. Leaving the timing chain tensioner in place against what the manual says was also a bad idea...but I just don't know how to explain why....I just would'nt do it again. I did not want to take it out after I started winding so did my best to loosen it as far as possible. I think it was only holding on by a couple threads.

Following Army's advice I should have just done what I was told, but I am not built that way I guess. They really leave no room for interpretation in these manuals. If they put it in the manual I am learning the hard way that it is probably for a reason. Those Germans don't mess around. In the end we managed to get it done so I am happy....and thankful for all the help. This site is great.

I think by some of my questions it was apparent that I do not have experience in this type of thing hence the discouragement. I asked a lot of dumb questions that I can see are telling of my inexperience with this now that I have done it. The discouragement made an already scary project even more daunting but I can see now that this could have easily turned out alot worse, so the discouragement was just some peoples way of looking out for my sanity or for the car to not end up as a pile of junk if I did not get it right.
The dog and I stayed up all night to do this as I feared if I walked away I would loose my train of thought. I did have help but they took off after the first five minutes when my zip ties stretched and I had to figure it out by myself for awhile. When I went to find my helpers they were already sleeping.

I should'nt start patting myself on the back just yet. I have to go put the valve covers on and re-fill with oil and make sure it runs. I am expecting way better performance and gas mileage considering I was running on 7 cylinders and 13 degrees chain stretch and a broken guide. Should sound good. I'll report back after some smoke shows.(tire smoke)

Are you sure about how the manuals are written if you are standing in front of the car?

All my marks line up on the cams and the timing pointer is near the big 0. My rotor is pointing to #1 on the line. I am about to start it so we will find out if I have a paper weight or a car.