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#16
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Thanks! You guys are amazing.
One question, is the lock absolutely necessary, or can I just eye up when the tang is centered?
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#17
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You need a mirror to see into the port so the locking tool is insurance.
Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon |
#18
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Excellent write up, thank you.
P.S., just curious, but what does loosening the bolts near the vacuum pump and on the back of injection pump accomplish?
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#19
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It allows you to turn the IP. There are 3 bolts that hold the IP on from the front, and 1 in the rear. If you don't loosen them first, you are NOT turning the IP.
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#20
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Got it. Now I'm trying to figure out which is the right bolt in the back of the IP.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#21
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Is it the one closest to the engine block, next to the ELR solenoid?
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#22
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The bracket has a bolt into the block and one into the IP. Loosen the bolt into the IP which goes through a slotted hole in the bracket.
Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon |
#23
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I know that particular bracket on the 617 is a pia to get to with the engine in the car.
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Jim |
#24
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Ok, so I am stuck at step 11. The bolts are slackened, and I am adjusting the turnbuckle, but the pump does not seem to move, as I am not seeing the tang re appear.
Anyone have any ideas? Thank you.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#25
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My suggestion would be, if the car still runs satisfactorily TO YOU to a minimum for your tolerance level of performance, need and use for the car, button it up and just drive the thing. There are way too many variables and concepts to understand about the timing of these pumps. The AB light and the locking tool MIGHT work if the car is just coming off of the factory floor when everything is perfectly untouched and are spot on as to being in specifications, which is unlikely as old as these pumps are. The AB lights could be on showing correct position, BUT, what if the tangs metering the fuel behind that cover that is located behind the manual injection pump have been moved (those 6 levers locked in placed with hex or torx screws connected to the fuel rod lever)? Right, those lights turning on mean nothing, but lights are on. But, when you have lots of time to experiment to TRY to figure it all out, I used the "drip method" like used to time the OM617 engines and timed my OM603 engines at 24 degrees BEFORE TDC, not based on the pointer where the AB light attaches but based on the EXACT point the fuel cuts off on the Compression stroke for #1 cylinder (24 degrees BEFORE TDC). When you are correct there (fuel 100% cuts off and stops flowing), and rotate the engine STILL checking for the drip to return during the complete fueling process, at 16 degrees AFTER TDC, the fuel will begin to flow again. At that point, you are perfectly timed, at least on #1 cylinder. If those other 5 levers that I mentioned above are in same proportion as to #1 that you just drip tested, then you are GOLDEN and good to go.
So, that is why I say, if it is running just drive the thing. Or prepare to spend lots of time to include YEARS experimenting and enjoying working on these old beasts. Good Luck. (NOTICE: I see you have the OM602. Information applies just the same, even if it was 12 cylinders) BenzDiesel Last edited by BenzDiesel; 12-21-2017 at 05:15 PM. |
#26
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Thank you, I will keep that all under consideration.
Miraculously, I turned the crank until I saw the tang again, just to see what happens, and I was at 15 degrees!!! I'm not sure if I maxed out the turnbuckle, and by dumb luck ended up on the mark? Very interesting, it kind of blew me away to be honest. The power delivery in the car is dramatically better now. The slight hesitation is gone. It did not solve my shake at idle, as I hoped, but it was still worth the process, I think.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#27
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By the way, the beginning reading was 11 degrees.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
#28
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Glad it worked out for you. You seeing the tang at 15 degrees and the car is performing much better means that you are near in specs or close enough not to have to worry about safety issues like being under powered or being too slow. Seems that the idle speed adjustment rods (need to be extended) attached to the levers on top of the injection pump should speed up idle a little to make it smooth out. I think 700 to 800 rpm is good and won't burn that much extra fuel. I think when new, those engines could idle at about 600 rpm smoothly. Just be careful because the plastic becomes brittle over time and breaks. Then you have to learn how to weld to bypass the plastic on your rods or get replacements. Anyway, glad it worked out. Be careful to control your curiosity. It will keep you seeking to make the car perfect, which won't happen. But is still good to know.
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#29
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Have you checked chain elongation?
Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon |
#30
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Actually not yet. That is coming up on the list though.
__________________
1993 300d - Von Strudel 1987 190e (RIP) - Duke 1983 230e (sold) - Helga 1982 240d (sold) - Igor 1973 280 (sold and missed ) |
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